RE: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E ..................................

["'Rick Vitek' rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have little to add to the usual suggestions. Yes things need to be
adjusted properly so that excessive mechanical movement in the system is not
mistaken for lack of hydraulic pressure. When replacing/rebuilding the
master cylinder it is suggested to bleed that separately from and prior to
the rest of the system. It bleeds a lot of air that takes a long time if you
push it to the wheel cylinders. I use a hi-falutin' fancy system: get a
piece of metal brake line approximately 12" long with the proper fitting to
mate with the front of the master cylinder. Bend the line without kinking
into an approx. 270 degree arc. With the master cylinder installed on the
firewall install the line so it's open end leads back into the reservoir
(you will probably have to bend it further down so the end is below the
fluid line). Have your 13 year old zero-attention-span son work the pedal
while you observe and top up the fluid as the air is expelled as bubbles
through the end of the line. After all bubbles have been expelled go have an
adult beverage. Then locate your son again and have him work the pedal some
more for any lingering bubbles. Detach the bleeder line and hook up the line
to the wheel system. Some air will be introduced here but will bleed out.
Now follow the procedures in the manual for the order of bleeding all four
brake lines. You'll  need to be pushing through more fluid than you may
think. If your old fluid is at all straw color you'll notice it become
clearer. Keep going.

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2015 1:39 PM
To: Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E
..................................

 

  

Tom,

 

Did you follow the brake adjustment procedure in the service manual?  Did
you adjust the cams all 4 wheels?  The rears have a different cam movement
than the front.  Adjust the cams until they rub lightly on the drum, don't
back it off.  This is the way I've done it on my 300G for years and results
in the highest pedal.  Of course there could be other issues like air in the
lines or mushy flex lines, you did replace those, right? Sounds like you did
not change the shoes, so arcing shouldn't be a problem.

 

If you are using DOT 5 fluid, and you do a lot of agitation of the fluid
during the process, tiny air bubbles can form, so those have to work out.  I
been running DOT 5 for over 30 years so I know it works well, but it does
have a tendency to develop tiny air bubbles that need to rise out over time
if the fluid is shaken.

 

Bob J

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2015 8:01 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E
..................................

 

  

Good Afternoon to Everyone out there in 300 Land!

 

Subject:  Bleeding brakes

 

My rear brakes were starting to lock up when I applied the brakes while
coming to a stop.  I replaced the master cylinder and rebuild the rear brake
cylinders.  Now that I've bled the brakes, or at least I thought, the brake
pedal is going all the way to the floor.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks to any and all responses in advance!

 

Tom

South Miami, Florida





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "Rick Vitek" <rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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