RE: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E ..................................

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have often wondered about that procedure..it is in MOPAR instructions for
70's trucks . I admit to not doing it, did not know about it when active in
this personally . But agree it cannot hurt. 

Reason for email is that once I coiled line vertically at MC , could not
bleed brakes!!!--think about why...!; Coil for flex , has to be
horizontal--leading to the following bit of learning ; the thinking is that
bubbles do rise into MC when sitting, and they do come out..any  in vertical
riser to MC will get out by itself. But your point about pushing it out to
wheel cylinders might not happen, as if reservoir on top is full,  vent to
piston space below is wide open with pedal relaxed, it fills by itself with
fluid,  and air comes out..you can help by leaving nut a little loose till
fluid leaks out ---what it does for next 10 years, vents air by bubbling
through reservoir . Some small motions with pedal should get all air out and
any remaining would be in vertical. And will rise up and out . Same thinking
lets you change MC without bleeding brakes (not advocating that at all , but
sometimes on and off MC goes on ) but if there is no air downstream of
vertical riser and only a bit in vertical it does get out inherently ; you
may have noticed later dual master mopars with "bail type covers" are often
hurt by leaks at cover gasket; I had one drive me crazy with this, destroyed
new fire wall paint . In checking it out, I ran it with cover off. Spray up
is almost violent from vent, it soaks top of MC cover (67 Barracuda 273) ;
so air nearby is pushed back out BIG TIME if not trapped by upside down U
shape in horizontal lines , say in back.

The fix for that leak was to make a new bail of stainless welding rod ,
thicker wire than MOPAR bail..it is too weak to squeeze gasket tight enough
, bending it does not work. It just unbends when you snap it over 

Not advocating anything, just info...

Last almost all issues I had,  and some caused  by myself, in early days,
were due to two things: turning cams wrong way, ( getting mixed up or
naively) or getting a car with the brake cams adjusted backwards..it will
adjust that way, but will back itself off ; lack of friction at cams at
backing plates will do that too. You MUST follow that diagram of directions
to turn cams ..do not do from memory. You can screw yourself up.. Of maybe
10 300's I worked on over 40 years , maybe 8 had this all screwed up.=
unrelenting brake hassles--such as pulling  ; that,  and new shoes in
previously turned drums , they do not touch fully for thousands of miles. 

When these brakes are really correct (which is in fact quite rare) they are
not too bad. The "golden screwdriver"  mechanic causes the bad press, along
with a lack of self centering. . Last < I have a red 60 Buick Electra 225
401 convert; that is the big Buick with finned aluminum over cast iron drums
, brakes and shoes that are huge compared with 300's (not a GM guy at all,
but lover of that car..300's real competitor in 1960 ). Buick brakes are
simply outstanding. Dynaflow and big V8 , torque tube drive pretty cool too.
For another day.....

Best, 
John

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Rick Vitek' rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2015 9:41 AM
To: 'Bob Jasinski'
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E
..................................

I have little to add to the usual suggestions. Yes things need to be
adjusted properly so that excessive mechanical movement in the system is not
mistaken for lack of hydraulic pressure. When replacing/rebuilding the
master cylinder it is suggested to bleed that separately from and prior to
the rest of the system. It bleeds a lot of air that takes a long time if you
push it to the wheel cylinders. I use a hi-falutin' fancy system: get a
piece of metal brake line approximately 12" long with the proper fitting to
mate with the front of the master cylinder. Bend the line without kinking
into an approx. 270 degree arc. With the master cylinder installed on the
firewall install the line so it's open end leads back into the reservoir
(you will probably have to bend it further down so the end is below the
fluid line). Have your 13 year old zero-attention-span son work the pedal
while you observe and top up the fluid as the air is expelled as bubbles
through the end of the line. After all bubbles have been expelled go have an
adult beverage. Then locate your son again and have him work the pedal some
more for any lingering bubbles. Detach the bleeder line and hook up the line
to the wheel system. Some air will be introduced here but will bleed out.
Now follow the procedures in the manual for the order of bleeding all four
brake lines. You'll  need to be pushing through more fluid than you may
think. If your old fluid is at all straw color you'll notice it become
clearer. Keep going.

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2015 1:39 PM
To: Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E
..................................

 

  

Tom,

 

Did you follow the brake adjustment procedure in the service manual?  Did
you adjust the cams all 4 wheels?  The rears have a different cam movement
than the front.  Adjust the cams until they rub lightly on the drum, don't
back it off.  This is the way I've done it on my 300G for years and results
in the highest pedal.  Of course there could be other issues like air in the
lines or mushy flex lines, you did replace those, right? Sounds like you did
not change the shoes, so arcing shouldn't be a problem.

 

If you are using DOT 5 fluid, and you do a lot of agitation of the fluid
during the process, tiny air bubbles can form, so those have to work out.  I
been running DOT 5 for over 30 years so I know it works well, but it does
have a tendency to develop tiny air bubbles that need to rise out over time
if the fluid is shaken.

 

Bob J

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2015 8:01 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E
..................................

 

  

Good Afternoon to Everyone out there in 300 Land!

 

Subject:  Bleeding brakes

 

My rear brakes were starting to lock up when I applied the brakes while
coming to a stop.  I replaced the master cylinder and rebuild the rear brake
cylinders.  Now that I've bled the brakes, or at least I thought, the brake
pedal is going all the way to the floor.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks to any and all responses in advance!

 

Tom

South Miami, Florida





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "Rick Vitek" <rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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