ED, I have a 24'
enclosed haulmark with dual 5000 lb axles and 8000 winch.
There is plenty of room in front and back to tie down car. My
only suggestion would be to get the door on the driver side.
In my trailer, the doors don't open above the wheel hub, so it
is a job getting out of my H once I'm in the trailer. A
convertible would be easier. So to finallize: get 5000 lb
axles and a door on the driver side.
Jim Maiani
Houghton lake, MI
H
On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at
11:39 PM, Edward Mills Antique Tractors wrote:
The
late 300's are almost 19 ft by themselves. I keep one in a
10x20 storage and with an 8 ft wide door it is tight on
all dimensions. And yes I know a 20 ft long space with
walls is less than 20 ft usable - more like 19 ft - I
expect an enclosed trailer may be the same. I think you
would be unhappy with only 20 ft length - maybe 22 would
be OK, but 24 would be better still.
I have an open tilt
trailer that has a 20 ft tilt deck plus 4 foot fixed in
front of the tilt section. The extra 4 ft really comes in
handy if you are carrying any parts or spares - I brought home
a spare engine in front of a car once.
As to entry / exit, we
had an enclosed race trailer once - typically we crawled
in and out an open window because we could not open car
doors due to trailer inner fenders. (Deck was about as low as
we could go to clear the axles and fenders were inboard
with side walls were near the outside edge of tires.) Even
then it was tight and I was 30 ish and much thinner than
now. You could crawl out the back, but the side door was
much more convenient then - let alone 30 years older and
40 pounds heavier.
I went heavy duty on
everything - 2 x 7500 pound axles with electric brakes and
235/80R16 Load Range E tires. Why - because it was not
that much more expensive compared to what I was spending and
I figured I was buying a trailer to last for future use
that may not be unique to a single car.
But I went cheap on
the open part but added the tilt which I really like. If
you are going enclosed with a drop down door, you
obviously don't want / need the tilt, but If you are going
to the expense of an enclosed trailer for an expensive
car, I would keep the side door, probably go 22 or 24 ft
length and 2 x 7500 pound axles and don't forget the
failsafe brake if trailer becomes disconnected - and make
sure its wired to keep the little battery charged.
Also don't know what
the current lighting requirements are by length, but I've
seen a lot of 18-20 ft trailers with no side marker
lights. I'd ask for front amber corner lights and rear side
marker lights. If you go with fenders extending outside
the body, I would also consider marker lights there - it
makes backing up at night easier if you know where the
corners are.
best, Ed
On 3/4/2014 9:01 PM,
Mwl1967 wrote:
Hi Everyone,
I'm sure this must
have come up at some point in the past but I'd
like to open a discussion as to what to look
for in a enclosed trailer sturdy enough to
handle the largest of the 300's. I currently
have a 20' open car carrier with a steel deck
that weighs around 2300lbs empty with 3500lb
axles. Add a full size brute to that and I'm
running at maximum. Shall I assume an enclosed
trailer same length will then need to upgrade to
5000lbs axles to cover the weight of the car
and the trailer? What about length? Will a 20'
enclosed give me enough room to get in front
of the loaded car, and down on the ground to
work the tie downs up front? What about
trailer construction? Why is a Haulmark Edge twice
the price of others? Do I need a door on the
drivers side of the trailer to get in and out
of the car? Appreciate any input.
Mike Laiserin
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