Re: [Chrysler300] Trailer Size?
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Re: [Chrysler300] Trailer Size?
- From: jmaiani@xxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2014 09:39:06 -0500 (EST)
ED, I have a 24' enclosed haulmark with dual 5000 lb axles and 8000 winch. There is plenty of room in front and back to tie down car. My only suggestion would be to get the door on the driver side. In my trailer, the doors don't open above the wheel hub, so it is a job getting out of my H once I'm in the trailer. A convertible would be easier. So to finallize: get 5000 lb axles and a door on the driver side.
Jim Maiani
Houghton lake, MI
H
On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 11:39 PM, Edward Mills Antique Tractors wrote:
The late 300's are almost 19 ft by themselves. I keep one in a 10x20 storage and with an 8 ft wide door it is tight on all dimensions. And yes I know a 20 ft long space with walls is less than 20 ft usable - more like 19 ft - I expect an enclosed trailer may be the same. I think you would be unhappy with only 20 ft length - maybe 22 would be OK, but 24 would be better still.
I have an open tilt trailer that has a 20 ft tilt deck plus 4 foot fixed in front of the tilt section. The extra 4 ft really comes in handy if you are carrying any parts or spares - I brought home a spare engine in front of a car once.
As to entry / exit, we had an enclosed race trailer once - typically we crawled in and out an open window because we could not open car doors due to trailer inner fenders. (Deck was about as low as we could go to clear the axles and fenders were inboard with side walls were near the outside edge of tires.) Even then it was tight and I was 30 ish and much thinner than now. You could crawl out the back, but the side door was much more convenient then - let alone 30 years older and 40 pounds heavier.
I went heavy duty on everything - 2 x 7500 pound axles with electric brakes and 235/80R16 Load Range E tires. Why - because it was not that much more expensive compared to what I was spending and I figured I was buying a trailer to last for future use that may not be unique to a single car.
But I went cheap on the open part but added the tilt which I really like. If you are going enclosed with a drop down door, you obviously don't want / need the tilt, but If you are going to the expense of an enclosed trailer for an expensive car, I would keep the side door, probably go 22 or 24 ft length and 2 x 7500 pound axles and don't forget the failsafe brake if trailer becomes disconnected - and make sure its wired to keep the little battery charged.
Also don't know what the current lighting requirements are by length, but I've seen a lot of 18-20 ft trailers with no side marker lights. I'd ask for front amber corner lights and rear side marker lights. If you go with fenders extending outside the body, I would also consider marker lights there - it makes backing up at night easier if you know where the corners are.
best, Ed
On 3/4/2014 9:01 PM, Mwl1967 wrote:
Hi Everyone,
I'm sure this must have come up at some point in the past but I'd like to open a discussion as to what to look for in a enclosed trailer sturdy enough to handle the largest of the 300's. I currently have a 20' open car carrier with a steel deck that weighs around 2300lbs empty with 3500lb axles. Add a full size brute to that and I'm running at maximum. Shall I assume an enclosed trailer same length will then need to upgrade to 5000lbs axles to cover the weight of the car and the trailer? What about length? Will a 20' enclosed give me enough room to get in front of the loaded car, and down on the ground to work the tie downs up front? What about trailer construction? Why is a Haulmark Edge twice the price of others? Do I need a door on the drivers side of the trailer to get in and out of the car? Appreciate any input.
Mike Laiserin
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