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Hi Chris, My entire discussion is/was about ram cars, I know nothing personally
of H type quads, although operation strategy is identical to C and D , or any
inline dual quad. ; Maybe this is kind of funny in retrospect , the miscommunication
, I was hearing right or left , not front or back. Sorry; Forgot we are in solidly
H territory, not F , where I live most of the time. While I am not 100 % sure
now that you ask, and I should know definitively, but memory fails, I think the
F had heat riser valves in the exhaust manifold that controlled flow in the (two!—in
and out) ) heat elbows, one on each side. If not, I stand corrected, but IF
not, that is an awful setup. Needs for carb heat are far different cold than
hot for same reasons as crossover type heat valve . That would only add to warm
up miseries to have uncontrolled heat. I have seen the floor of ram manifolds
burned out with a hole into plenum from exhaust , in fact I fixed two pairs of
them with that issue back in the day, which seems to reinforce the heat riser valve
(stuck) . Will check on that... That plenum hole issue helps you with tuning a lot! J and K dual choke cables provided perfect synchronization of
chokes, and fast idle cam, on ram cars . This poor running at start in winter WAS
the major issue behind myriad drivability problems with these cars when new in
60 and 61; as I mentioned ,I was right there when they were new, many 60-61 rams
were pulled, one in a friend’s family in 61 Plymouth 383 wagon ( I tried to get
them) . We tolerate this today, as “part of the brute”, and a non issue in warm
climates. For 62, someone in marketing or service at Chrysler said “no way –no more
of this“; ---note the interim service bulletins on setting up rams, too. Not
just a use up parts problem, a real image problem . By the time J and K were sold, the new short rams only came in
300’s , a mom in a station wagon or Sport Fury was not dealing with 361/383 auto
choke Rams, --which did not work for her. J+K were sold as performance cars to
people with more tolerance for high performance engines...and now with ability
to start up without hassle on cold days, and you can open the choke /unload from
inside if flooded (manual choke!) ---and a loose converter. Big big improvements
right there. . My J gave me zero problems here, unlike the F. That all this is
true is validated by the owners manuals for F / G etc; it calls attention to
rough idle and “solid “ engagement as “characteristic or your high performance
engine” etc etc , trying to defuse some big issues they had . If you flood one
of those 60-61 ram cars , with automatic chokes you are in for a party. I do
not think you can reasonably start them quickly if flooded without pulling air
cleaners and opening chokes, despite WOT unloaders on the chokes. ( my
experience,--- carried ether, two pencils ) and as I mentioned the full club expertise
struggled with the one in Maine, just trying to move it to concourse .Crank
fine, no start. Every time you try to unload choke with foot pedal two more
squirts go into puddle in manifold. WE need to know more tech about the (H? Sport 300? ) that won
NHRA A/SA in 62. (HRM special) Was it front to back AFB dual quads? Huge boost
for Chrysler, faster than all the 409 and 421 GM 4 spd cars , put 727 solidly
on the map. Bulletproof auto trans in drag racing? Never before... John From: kmaniak@xxxxxxx
[mailto:kmaniak@xxxxxxx] John: With all due respect, I feel compelled to offer a few
clarifications regarding the manifold and carburetor set ups on the letter
series Chryslers. The in-line twin carburetor set up used on the E and H was
designed in such a manner that the front two barrels of the rear
carburetor was the primary fuel supply to the entire engine at start up and low
speed operation. Therefore, there was need for only one choke, located on
the primary barrels of the rear carburetor as Mike describes. The rear
carburetor secondary barrels, and well as the front carburetor barrels, only
opened after the primary barrels were at least one-third to one-half open.
Both carburetors fed all eight cylinders simultaneously. The cross ram engines differed from the in-line engines in that
each carburetor only fed four cylinders. At start up and low speed
operation, the primary barrels of both carburetors were required to operate,
with each carburetor feeding only four cylinders. As such, two chokes
were required, one for each carburetor. Given that the '60 & '61
cross rams had automatic choke pull offs, and each worked independently of the
other, I can see how a lack of synchronization could really mess up cold start
engine performance and drivability. And I agree that the manual choke set
up used on the J and ram K provided synchronization. The manual choke was
also cheaper to produce, and I think Chrysler was pushing "cheaper"
when building the J and ram K. Now I need to touch for a moment the subject of the "exhaust
heat riser valve". To be clear, this special valve was a
thermostatically operated butterfly valve installed just before the exhaust
flange on the passenger side "log style" exhaust manifold. The
purpose of this valve was to temporarily restrict exhaust flow from the right
side of the engine and force a portion of the exhaust gases from the right side
of the engine through the right cylinder head, then through the base of the one
piece intake manifold, then out through the left head. This allowed the
exhaust to quickly heat the intake manifold for quicker warm up and better cold
start drivability. On engines with intake manifolds and carburetors
installed between the cylinder heads, only one "exhaust heat riser
valve" was installed on the right exhaust manifold. The cross ram
engines did not have carburetors mounted between the heads. The cross ram
manifolds included blocker plates that capped off the upper center exhaust
ports in each cylinder head. As a result, exhaust gases did not flow from
head to head on a cross ram engine. Therefore, no "exhaust heat riser
valve" was required or installed on the ram engines. Each ram
manifold receives exhaust flow from the respective exhaust manifold below it on
a continuous basis. Hopefully we are all on "one page" now. I welcome
any comments or differing opinions. Chris the K MANIAC
-----Original Message----- Only one carb was connected to
your setup? So you started on 4 cylinders..? The J setup manual choke split in
two if I remember right , made both carbs do exactly the same thing.. What you
want ... They should have had one choke
control and cross link the carb fast idle and choke mechanically. Not
sure why they did not do that. Would have cost less and worked right..
What they do matters less ----than they do it together. Exhaust heat riser valves both
have to be in sync too. Or you get loping idle , stalls when you push D on cold
days, equals starting it 5-6 times . If you had manual choke on both, (J) ,
it just let you raise idle high enough manually when cold to cover up all
this. But still harsh D engagement was the norm. Tests that fine front U joint
on 60 -61, too!!. “Clang” !!---J had a little looser converter, not as harsh maybe.
And they are a bear to start if
they get badly flooded , not sure why..My .02: = maybe gas sits in a deep
puddle at bottom of ram under carb till it is good and ready to evaporate out,
(no other way out) but a squirt of ether and away you go. On regular manifold,
that gas would run down into ports. Despite working on these on and
off for what 50 years now, I admit to lots of suffering along the way.
Can do in minutes what used to baffle me for a day. One key thing I found is
that many, if not most of the carbs have destroyed adjusting needles by now ,
due to all the playing with them..if you see a ring or step worn
circumferentially around the needle, no question -- it is junk. Cannot be
adjusted right. That ring comes from “golden screwdriver “ and going too tight
into hole, prior to “backing out 1.5 turns” . I found new Edelbrock needles
(spare parts from them) are beefier and fit and work even with possible damage
in carb body..taper is slightly different. .# 1 thing you can do about
frustrating drifty funky idle setup. ..that changes by itself every time you
look at it. I mistakenly junked several “untuneable “ ‘defective” carbs
before knowing that, After careful rebuilds, still the idle problem remained
..... From: Michael
Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx] John, I have owned my 300H since 1965
or so. When I got my car, it had a very nnicely installed manual choke. It was
a very clean installation, which I thought was factory for a while, using
one of the unused round knobs beneath the dome of the instrument panel. The
unused knob had a set screw and was used to connect to a choke wire which went
to the rear carb. It was actually, I thought, much more useful than my curent
electric stove choke. I only removed it because it
would gradually creep into the choke position as the engine vibrated, so I
frequently had to push the choke back in. Sometimes, on a long trip, I woujld
only notice it when I realized the engine wasn't running right and would find
the choke fully engaged. Otherwise, I thought the
car started easier as I could momentarily choke the crap out of it
if it was cold and as soon as it fired start coming off of choke. Mike Moore 300H On Jan 29, 2014, at 4:21 AM, John
Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote: Another aspect of this was very
poor choke pull off on ram cars ; one side pulls off before other even today .
Certain types of cutomers would not deal with this in 60 , 61. I was there ,
one person i know had rams pulled off 383 61 plymouth wagon over terrible idle
/cold start /warmup stalling isuues in Boston ... New car . J and K (?) had manual chokes to
ensure syncrony . Ram cars are cut a lot of slack today , but remembet at meet
in maine it took 5 club membets half an hour to start a perfect flooded F
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