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Newer vehicles, at least the more refined ones, are most certainly hub-centric. All of my BMW's have had specific hub center sizes going back into the early 1990's. There are a few different sizes used on a variety of the cars spanning at least 20 years. You can buy spacers and adaptors in order to fit wheels to cars they were not designed to fit and in some cases, the center bores on wheels are enlarged to fit larger diameter hubs. Bimmers also use bolts versus lug nuts on studs which I also like.
My 65 300, as well as many of my mid-late 60's Mopars I've had, have steel rims that fit snugly enough over the hubs that I would consider them hub-centric, especially with a thick coat of paint or powder coat. I recall when using Ford steel rims on the Mopars that the bore size on the wheels was slightly smaller and would often lead to the wheels getting pressed onto the hubs when torqued down. I remember using 6' long pry bars to remove them sometimes. I don't see why you wouldn't want to center the wheel to the hub in any application, it just makes sense.
Ryan Hill Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] New American Classic Tires From: mmoore8425@xxxxxxx Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 14:37:00 -0800 CC: ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx; ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: millserat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Ed, Has any production car ever used hub centric wheels? I just read this and this (below) and the author apparently does not understand fasteners, how they work, how a preloeaded bolt works, and in general is spouting a bunch of malarky which any engineer can spot in a short read of this piece. I really think this is something new to sell and has no relationship to our cars. I would need to see some numbers on a free body diagram to believe any of this. Mike Moore Thanks, Mike Moore 300H On Jan 5, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Edward Mills Antique Tractors <millserat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Not sure I understand the benefit of Hubcentric - in reality, most
wheels center on lugs which are further from center and hence better
able to resist any movement as long as they are concentric.
To be Hubcentric, you must have 2 things - first hub must have a raised surface to register rim and second, rim ID must be precisely correct diameter for that specific hub. Many drum brake applications do not have a surface raised to register on. Further, many wheels have slightly oversized and/or loose tolerance to accommodate multiple applications - i.e. the ability to swap aftermarket wheels for both Ford & Chrysler application. We had option to use Hubcentric Momo wheels years back while racing - you had an oversized center on wheel and used a set of application specific adapters which precisely matched ID of wheel and OD of the specific car. Never found any real benefit so we did not use after first few uses. Principal benefit seemed to be precision in centering with respect to any potential out-of-round of the mounted assembly. No real benefit as to side loads which were the predominant issue on race car as we never had any concentricity issue with Momo or BBS wheels with race tires. I would suspect this recommendation is due to some of the balance issues which have been reported with some replica sizes and low production specialty tires. I would further note that belted tires (both radial and bias-belted) are particularly sensitive to belt alignment and manufacturing tolerances. In 1968/69 when bias belted tires became popular, only Goodyear had them and in their haste to catch up, several of the other big5 (Goodyear, Firestone, Goodrich, General, and Uniroyal) had issues with their first generation tires. When customers complained about balance, we were instructed to check with a radial runout gage and if more than a number which I now forget, they were replaced no charge. By about 1970, the production tolerance issues were sorted out. On 1/4/2014 8:07 PM, Ryan Hill wrote:
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