Re: [Chrysler300] Member with an overheating problem with his K

["C Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>]

Dave was correct on this.  The non-A/C K originally came without a fan clutch (direct drive) unless it was a ram K.  The club website has useful information about letter car original equip. fans and clutches at: http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/fan.htm    Adding a fan clutch offers benefits especially at low speeds on a hot day and a Hayden 2705 thermal clutch will fit without modifications for ‘63-‘64.  The only issue I’ve noticed is they are designed for more modern iron that run 195+ t-stats and it doesn’t seem to really start locking on until the engine gets pretty hot (maybe 200 degrees?) but it will work.  

As Dave and others have mentioned the more fundamental issues must be addressed first.  On a non-rebuilt engine it is imperative to try to flush as much of the old crud out of the block first.  This may take multiple flushes, and the water passages may still not be real clear but the original cooling capacity of these cars when new was quite robust (I’ve been told).  If the radiator is original then a recore, while expensive, is very beneficial.  Just make sure the engine flushes are done first, or you may crud up the new rad core, and install a new 180 t-stat.

Carl B
300J

From: Keith Boonstra 
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 12:56 PM
To: David Schwandt 
Cc: mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Member with an overheating problem with his K

  
Actually some (if not all) of the non-A/C letter cars ran a non-thermal 
clutch as well. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to hear the beautiful 
sound of solid lifters clattering away (in the 50s anyway)over the roar 
of the cooling fan.

I've had two of my collector cars with fresh cooling systems overheat 
while idling in the last couple of years, and the solution in both cases 
was complete with the replacement of the fan clutches. The clutch is 
usually the last suspect because its slowing with age can go undetected.

Interestingly the thermal type won't give you better MPG than the 
non-thermal - actually less to some immeasurable degree. Depending on 
the coolant temperature, the thermal type will range between something 
like 30% and 65% (using more HP) of water pump RPM, while the 
non-thermal one will just stay at 30% all the time. Of course the worst 
case would be if it's bolted up straight without a clutch at all, where 
the fan rips at 100% all the time.

But you're right. If you've got other blockage or pump problems, a new 
fan clutch won't overcome that.

Keith Boonstra

-
On 3/27/2013 1:28 PM, David Schwandt wrote:
>
> Kieth,
>
> He's working on a non-A/C car and more than likely don't have a fan 
> clutch.
> Just bolted up solid.
> That being said, a fan clutch and shroud May aid somewhat but the 
> underlying o/heating problem will still exist.
> More than likely stat, plugged water passages and or water pump 
> problems. If this is in an original engine to the car and has never 
> been opened up
> I'll bet all the above will prove to be the cause of the problem.
> I have ran 63-64 Chryslers w/big blocks and have never had an 
> O/heating problem but these were fresh engine cars also.
> A thermal fan clutch will aid also in MPG.
>
> Dave Schwandt
>
> 



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