RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables - Pertronix - What about plug wires?

["Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi

 

I bought a Taylor plug wire set for my hemi.  They are spiral wound.  They are probably 1 mm wider diameter than original but I certainly wouldn’t buy ordinary (or worse still 50 year old) plug wires just so It looks perfect to 1 out of 500 people.   I looked up their website but the set they supply for a 300F is 10.4 mm thick which would look obviously wrong.  You should be able to buy smaller diameter wire  (7-8 mm) from them with fittings to make a set to suit.  I think they are very good quality.  

 

Regards

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, 10 March 2013 3:55 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables - Pertronix - What about plug wires?

 

  



Am curious if any Club membe rs have approached Pertronix re making plug wires sets for our 300s? 

My mechanic  has my F back running beautifully - at least it will be once our snow melts and the salt washes away - and has commented on his dissatisfaction with the plug wires I had installed.  In August '11 I had purchased a set of Atlas wires and, following some interesting Member feedback, replaced those a month later with a new set from Lectric Limited, as recommended on our Club's site. My mechanic tested the wires and isn't happy with their performance - says the plugs are only firing at about 75% efficiency -  with his ohmeter they tested on the low side of acceptable . He much prefers Pertronix plug wires, and has used them for many years on Ford motors - says the spiral bound stainless steel cores allow for optimal spark and last 'forever.' 

The wires Pertronix currently markets aren't long enough for our ram cars. 

Noel Hastalis 

Burr Ridge, IL 

F coupe 

----- Original Message -----

From: "C Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:cbilter%40mchsi.com> > 
To: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx <mailto:c300%40ez2.net> > 
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>  
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 5:55:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables - Pertronix 

  

Several responses have been made already and I noted some conflicting information in those responses. I’ve addressed this in past posts. Re. the Pertronix Ignitor Rich is asking about a Ram K which is the same as the J. You use an Ignitor I module. The best deal on that unit is from John Lazenby, and we should support his business regardless (IMHO). Follow the instructions. You do not connect the red wire to pos. on the coil. You connect the red wire via an extension wire and splice in at the full 12v ignition source going to the ballast resistor. You might want to use a connector that you can disconnect if ever needed for testing or replacement. You leave the ballast resistor in the circuit, just as stated in the instructions, and then it looks more stock as well. The Ignitor will fire down to about 8v, but is designed to run at the full 12v+. The black wire goes to the neg. on the coil. You can use a stock coil of at least 1.5 ohms. The failure rate on the CURRENT Ignitor modules itself is not high. The failure rate is high only on bad installations. I spoke about this in detail with the tech experts at Pertronix. John L can put you in touch if needed. Here are some common situations that will kill the Pertronix quickly or shorten its life. 

1) Leaving the ignition key “on” with the engine off when the engine is in a position analogous to “points closed.” 
2) Using a low resistance performance coil 
3) Reversing polarity when wiring 
4) Low voltage such as connecting the red wire to the pos. on the coil with the ballast resistor in the circuit. Or a weak/dead battery. 
5) Bad ground between the breaker plate on which the Ignitor mounts in the distributor and the battery negative terminal. It won’t kill the Ignitor but it simply won’t function. 

Before you start up, check voltage and spark (I crank the engine and use a timing light). Expect to reset your timing, perhaps fairly drastically on the J/Ram K. 
Re. ignition cables, the Ignitor will work with solid core wires, at least until the wires start going bad, but it is advisable to use radio suppression wire for all types of electronic ignition modules. 

300ly, 
Carl B 

From: Rich Barber 
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 7:58 PM 
To: 'Ronald Kurtz' ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>  
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables/Sure Grip or not? 

I'm also curious as to whether the Petronix system starts on 12 V and runs 
on lower voltage fed through the ignition resistor-or just a full 12 V at 
all times? 

Second question: How does one check for a Sure-Grip differential in a 
non-op car? With one rear wheel jacked up and the tranny in neutral should 
the jacked-up wheel turn freely or lock up? With both rear wheels jacked 
up, does turning one wheel cause the other to rotate in the same or reverse 
direction? 

Rich Barber 

From: mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Ronald Kurtz 
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 1:31 PM 
To: mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables 

Hello, everyone: 

What is the best ignition cable and coil to use with a Petronix Flamethrower 

distributor? I am thinking about upgrading my ignition system. 

Best, 
Ron Kurtz 
E #292 

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