I thought I sent a response but I guess it got lost in cyberspace! I don't know how different a G box is to an H box. Here is my experience/opinion with my H box: Because of a leak in the control valve, I had to install a kit, just a couple of o-rings and a gasket. There are 2 bolts on top of the steering box which hold down the control valve. The high pressure steering hose screws into it, and the low pressure hose also attaches to it. installing the kit was easy, the rest was not so easy. Chuck Hill told me how to adjust the control valve which I suspect is Bob's problem. I was able to do it successfully following Chuck and John Characki's directions. Jack the front wheels up so the wheels are clear of the ground and the steering is free to turn. Slightly loosen the 2 screws on the control valve. I THINK I scribed witness lines onto the steering box so I'd know where the control valve was when I started. Either I did that or later wished I had! Note steering wheel orientation with vehicle wheels straight ahead. THIS IS THE DANGEROUS PART! KEEPING TOTALLY CLEAR OF THE STEERING --WHEEL, START THE ENGINE. The steering wheel may turn violently. I was told arms have been broken which got in the way. It will settle down quickly. Stop engine. Note steering wheel location and control valve location. Gently slide (I tapped it with machinist hammer) tthe valve to the rear (or front, just remeber which way you moved it!) a slight amount. Start the engine REMEMBERING TO KEEP CLEAR OF STEERING WHEEL. Straighten vehicle wheels steering wheels and note position of steering wheel. Decide which way to move control valve by tapping, and repeat process until you get steering wheel lined up. The shop which rebuilt my steering box aligned it before it was installed. Bob, I hope this helps. MIke Moore 300H On Sep 1, 2011, at 4:59 AM, christopher beilby wrote: > > I agree with Bill (below) - if the steering wheel was correct before the box removed, then magically/mysteriously, the steering tie rod end adjustments cannot have changed/moved while the box was out???!! > > So if the box just bolted up to everything that was the same as before removed, then the steering wheel must be correct!!?? Only thing that can make it wrong here, is how the rebuilder has set the master spline position !!?? > > Christopher in Auustralia - 1st day of spring here today, and Canola crops near fence high across much southern winter grain country > > > > > To: rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > From: czbill@xxxxxxxxxx > Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 07:24:55 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Steering box issue > > > > > > > If the only thing that was changed was the > rebuild of the steering box, and the steering > wheel was straight before the rebuild, then that is where the problem lies. > > Bill Huff > > At 9/1/201112:46 AM, Bob Jasinski wrote: >> >> >> I am having a fit trying to figure out why my car's steering wheel won't >> align properly now that my rebuilt steering box is back in the car. The >> box works fine, no noise or leaks, but I had it in the alignment shop today, >> and they can align the front end fine, BUT cannot get my steering wheel >> straight. Tonight I dropped the steering column again and removed and >> reinstalled the steering shaft 180 degrees from where it was in hopes that >> now the tie rod end threads won't bottom out before the steering wheel is >> straight. I have my doubts that this will work though. I spoke to the >> rebuilder and he says "we rebuild them to factory specs", although I will be >> calling him again if things don't work out tomorrow. >> >> I've read the service manual to see if there is some internal gear timing >> that must be maintained, and if there is, I can't find it in the book. The >> pitman arm is splined, but has "keys" every 90 degrees, (and was marked by >> the rebuilder with two dots for proper installation alignment) so I can't >> just move it a spline or two. Also, the steering wheel cannot be moved at >> all because it is splined and keyed in one place, I'm sure this is to keep >> the turn signal cancelling cam aligned properly on the steering shaft. My >> alignment guy and I are both scratching our heads. Is it possible my tie >> rod ends somehow have been made with too short of a thread length cut into >> them? Has anybody run into this problem? >> >> Bob J >> >> '61 300G with crooked wheel >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > To send a message to this group, send an email to: > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or > go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button > > For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > > For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links > > > ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/