Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints
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Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints



Glad I have Driveline in Dubuque, IA.
They did mine for the D w/no problem whatsoever doing the balance.

Dave Schwandt


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Boonstra" <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "rob kern" <robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Dave 
Swa300US" <finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints


Well folks, here's how my U-joint issue got resolved:

For the rear I got got a number AE-265 by Allied Eastern Corp., and it
seems to match right up.  Then for the ball and trunnion up front I got
a TRW #20119, and it, too, seems to be the right one for the job.  And,
BTW, a new boot is included.  The cast housing (tulip) is just a bit
different in shape from the original, but you'd have to have the two
side-by-side to be caught by the difference.  Functionally I think it
will be fine.

I got my kits from Northwestern Auto (616.241.5611) for $125 front and
$60 rear.  They still have a couple of the front and only one of the
rear on the shelf at this time.  Their internal part numbers are D4265R
for the front, and #285700 for the rear kit.  The TRW kit comes without
a grease pack and you need to supply.

I just stopped to take a call from the driveline shop.   He said the
joint kits are both installed, and everything worked out perfect with
these two kits.  So I guess these are good units to go with.  My labor
bill there is $46.05.

The driveline shop was a bit put off by the fact that I wanted to stay
original and not have him convert from the ball and trunnion to a cross
style.  He said there is no way to balance the driveline on today's
equipment.  It would have to be done trial-and-error style with hose
clamps on the prop shaft, and according to him, "there ain't enough
money in the world" to make him want to screw around with that for me.

He says I should get the creeper out and have a good time.  So I guess
that's what I'll have to do.  I understand from him that when you put
joint kits in, it will necessarily be at least somewhat out of its
original balance and you have to deal with it.

I hope this is helpful.

Keith Boonstra

-

On 3/16/2011 6:13 AM, christopher beilby wrote:
> There are certainly two different cross shaft sizes that have the same
> correct outer cup size that fit the rear uni/tailshaft/diff of 300Cs -
> I noticed this when doing up my supercharged 300C, and had the
> tailshaft out of one of my other ones at same time to see which unis
> to use in which, as I had a new one plus spare good original.
>
> It concerned me that maybe one of the rear uni joints might be for
> lower power/weight Plymouth, and if mistakenly put in 392 hemi 300C,
> it might fail. So at the time I asked the Club 300C guru/expert, which
> was correct, and if the smaller diam/thickness cross shaft uni might
> be not for 300C applications??!!  He replied he had no time for my
> stupid/time wasting innane questions, such as this and a few other
> 300C points I had noticed not covered in his resto manual/guide. He is
> not presently the Club 300C expert, but he may jknow, or reply to
> others now.
>
> I did not ask him to annoy him, I was just concerned the rear uni not
> fail, blow the tailshaft onto the road or smash up car floor etc .
> There was a clearly easily seen/noticed noticeable smaller
> size/thickness to the smaller centre crosspiece piece - it may have
> just been a brand difference, non genuine part difference?  Does
> anyone know the correct non genuine brand exact factory correct repo,
> such as Detriot/other?!
>
> Christopher Australia - 98 octane here last week over $7.50 an
> imperial gallon - ouch, taking our 300s on trips of around 1000 miles
> looking pretty expensive - beautiful mid 70s high 80s sunny days here
> lately in South Australia
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> CC: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> From: kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 17:51:40 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints
>
> Well, we'll just see how this turns out. I just received a front and a
> rear set, and brought the kits and the shaft over to the corner
> mechanic. He's going to check them over and see if it's the right stuff
> tomorrow. I told him even if the parts are wrong to still give me the
> shaft. He pointed out that he usually does that without my asking.
>
> Guy I bought them from checked it out in his books and says these have
> to be right. The two sets are NEA D4265R for the front and 285700 for
> the rear.
>
> Keith Boonstra
>
> -
>
> On 3/15/2011 4:37 PM, Rob Kern wrote:
> > Dave,
> > Thanks for the update! I'll put this source in my file. Rob
> > *From:* Dave Schwandt <mailto:finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>>
> > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 15, 2011 7:58 AM
> > *To:* Rob Kern <mailto:robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>> ;
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> ;
> > keboonstra <mailto:kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> <mailto:kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>>
> > *Subject:* Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints
> >
> > Member Mark Sherman has the boots available .
> > His ad is in the web site classified.
> > Got 2 of 'em from him just last week.
> >
> > Dave Schwandt
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rob Kern" <mailto:robkern%40sbcglobal.net>
> > To: <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>; "keboonstra"
> > <mailto:kboonstra%40zeegroup.com>
> > Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 9:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints
> >
> > Keith,
> > NAPA list for 300C front universal kit is #215R and rear universal joint
> > is #314G. If this doesn't work for you then contact Andy Bernbaum in
> > Newton,
> > Mass. at 617-244-1118. I purchased my front universal kit from him along
> > with the ball and trunion set-up. Keep your rubber boot as they are very
> > hard to locate and Andy didn't have them. There are firms that offer
> > conversion kits from the old ball and trunion front set-up to modern
> > u-joints that are listed on the vendors and services site under the TECH
> > section provided by Bob Merritt if you are interested in going that
> > route.
> > I explored it 3 years ago and was advised against swapping out the
> > ball and
> > trunion joint in the front by other club techies for various reasons.
> > Hope
> > this helps! 300'ly, Rob Kern
> >
> > From: keboonstra
> > Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 10:43 AM
> > To: mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Correct 1957 300C U-joints
> >
> > I called NAPA to get new u-joint kits for my C, but their book only goes
> > back to '58. When I look in my '55-'58 parts book under joint package,
> > it's
> > not entirely clear to me just which one the 300s use. Is it the same
> > on all
> > C76, C76-300, and LC-3?
> >
> > Thanks folks.
> >
> > Keith Boonstra
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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