RE: [Chrysler300] oil, 300 water pumps, disc brake conversions

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

There have been plenty of posts re the three following topics over the last weeks, so I will try to be brief.
1) the post I have left attacheed below seems a pretty sound starting point for 300 suitable oils - Isky have been performance cam builders for decades, and re the risks modern zinc free oils pose to our 'non roller 300' cams, I doubt one could dispute their knowledge expertise?!
If others wish to go the additive and synthetic route, then that is their choice/risk/win?  Here in Australia, Valovoline have released 5 litre pack of "XLD Plus Classic" - and the container lists it specifically for earlier motors. I have previously mentioned this oil, how it made my quad cam V12 Lambo quieter than previous Kendall and other I was using, plus it also quietened the cam buckets in my '62 XKE Roadster. This oil is listed as being made in Sydney Australia, so it may not comply with US regs, and not be in US.
2) water pump pulley sizes - the risk of higher speeds/revs in perf motors.  Pontiac who apart from exotics such as hemis and cammers, from late 50s on, did pretty well on streets/strips sometimes thru to the mid late 70s, and they put larger water pump pulleys on their higher hp stock factory models/motors - along with larger alternator pulleys also used by Ford and no doubt others.
 
They obviously figured water pumps worked worse at too high a revs re cooling their motors. The smaller alternator pulleys were I think more to stop over-revving it, a same but different reason involved.
3) Disc brake conversions for early 300s - and how to avoid need for a pressure valve for rear brakes or wheels if fitting discs to the front of 300s.  GM late 60s went to a large single pot caliper on GTOS, Chevelle, etc. The first couple of years they had a pressure valve type thingo that bolted onto or near the master cylinder/booster. Then around 71 they found a way to not need one. What I notice is the rear wheel cylinders are way smaller diameter than earlier. And this makes sense, the smaller the rear cylinder diameter, the smaller total area that the brake fluid pushes on.
 
So my suggestion to those not wanting the pressure/restrictor valve, is try to see what diam rear cylinders were used with what your/the disc conversion being used came off/from.
Of course if it a way lighter car in the rear than your 300, then you might need a 'size up' diameter on your rears than the donor car used.
And of course, once you know your needed diameter, you will need to find a rear cylinder set that bolts up to your rear backing plates - if they Mopar, maybe Chrysler used the exact diam cylinder you need on later Mopars?! Or a cross reference may tell you what other Brand ones might fit?
 
Christopher Australia - our once largest/oldest National swap was last weekend, in Bendigo Victoria, a place where they found gold about time they did in California, and swap is held just near a place named California Gulley - it today not a patch on it's namesake. Day before the swap saw our first warm night, warm winds. Next morning our 2nd biggest City awoke to news that billions of hatching young locusts had been blown south to them, and that in comning weeks they might eat all 3 million city resident' gardens. Cool change came with them, plus rain that washed out the Saturday of the swap, took down barley crops, and halted just started grain harvest. Our farmers seemed cursed the last 10+ years.
Only 300 type stuff I saw there was few old 331/354 rebuilders, but I may have missed lots of other stuff in rush to get around over 1500 sites - US ebay is taking over from our 2 biggest swaps re they being good for rare stuff you hope to find, as different to rare exotic stuff that is there that no one expected. Most old people there seemed as old as 50s cars are now.
 



To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 14:05:33 -0500
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] oil [Synthetic Oil]


  



On 11/15/2010 12:10 PM, Tom Chvapil wrote:

> OK, hopefully this will help a bit.
> I just had my 392 completely rebuilt, with a new performance Isky cam, and both the machine shop, as well as the Isky manufacturer gave the following instructions for both initial break in, as well as subsequent oil changes:

> " Isky recommends the use of only the following motor oils for maximum cam lobe and lifter protection BEFORE and AFTER the break-in period because they are the only conventional mineral based oils with generous levels of the zinc/phosphorus additive package:

> * Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 (The very best of all in our opinion.....)

> * Pennzoil 'GTP' Racing oil (Excellent-Do not confuse with regular grade Pennzoil!)

> * Valvoline Racing Oil (Excellent-Do not confuse with regular grade Valvoline or Valvoline VR-1)

> **We believe the Brad-Penn product (FORMERLY known as Kendall GT-1) to be superior to all other oils.....**

> If you DO NOT USE one of the above oil, the next best approach is to supplement other common mineral based oils with Engine Oil Supplement from any GM dealership (part #1052367, 16 oz.)
> My machine shop indicated that they prefer ZDDP.......

> **Special note regarding Synthetic Oils**

> Isky doesn't recommend the use of synthetic oils with any flat-tappet cams, especially during break-in. If you must use synthetic oil, AFTER break in period, there are only 2 brands we feel comfortable recommending. Amzoil (Red) Racing Oil and Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil."
> Other synthetics, especially those with very low viscosity index Numbers (i.e. 0w-15, 5w-20, etc) have very low film strength and are not designed, nor should they be used in any flat-tappet cam installation.

> I have retyped this info from the instruction packet I was given by my machine shop and Iskycams.

> Makes sense to me, especially since my shop has no stake in endorsing any of the above mentioned products.

> Tom Chvapil

Modern metallurgy, machining practices, and modern automotive chemistry 
go hand in hand with MANY considerations and collaborations that are 
geared for To-days mass produced transportation products.

We however are mainly concerned with Older metallurgy and machining 
practices, which today are outmoded and by and large IGNORED by the 
mainstream automotive chemistry industry.
The above suggestions certainly sound and read as very reasonable to me 
at this time!!

Modern Automotive chemistry also has changed the coolant products 
currently being produced. I had to be very carefull about the type of 
anti-freeze product I was replacing (about every year) in my 'hot-rod' 
truck. I foolishly used the current formula generic product for its 
first change about 6 years ago, this lead to solder bloom problems 
affecting my original copper/brass radiator until I replaced the old 
tech radiator for a new tech product.

Recapping things just a little, modern fuels, oils, brake fluids, and 
other assorted liquid products by and large being sold today for todays 
cars and truck are Different then what was the norm 50-60 years ago.
Allowances and considerations for these changes should be planed for and 
old practices adapted to the use of modern automotive chemistry products.

-- 
Paul Holmgren
Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage 1
Hoosier Corps L#6


 		 	   		  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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