Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion

[Jim Pristelski <ajp002@xxxxxxxxx>]

Years ago, while driving, my brother had the flexible brake hose between the
metal line and one of the front brakes rupture on his 1970 RoadRunner, which
resulted in total hydraulic brake failure.  He was quick enough minded to
use the emergency brake to get back home.

If you have replaced all three of the brake hoses, my personal view is that
converting to a dual master cylinder may be overkill.  Other than my
brother's incident, sudden brake failure is rare.

Much more common is gradual failure in which the brake pedal continues to
get softer or lower.  I recently had this on my 1999 Dodge van.  It turned
out that one of the rear brake cylinders had a slow leak and my brake fluid
eventually went too low.  Then, the pedal nearly went to the floor, but this
was gradual over a few days.

Best regards, Jim

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:37 PM, keboonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>
>
>
> I'm doing a high quality "driver restoration" to factory correct on our
> 300C, and I am considering the idea of converting to a dual master cylinder
> system if I can work up enough worry about the single cylinder system. I've
> never had a problem with loss of braking in my lifetime of driving, and have
> heard or read of very few cases where it happened to someone.
>
> If I make sure I have a very well freshened brake system throughout my car,
> how much concern should I have about a single master? Changing to dual would
> be my only concession to modernity other than the installation of seat belts
> and radials in my car, and I don't get pulled easily over to the "updating"
> side in our old car hobby. I really enjoy experiencing the way an old car
> acts for the most part, but I want to keep safety in mind as well. What do
> you think?
>
> And how about this related question. Suppose your brakes went out and all
> you now had was your parking brake to save you from certain mayhem. Would
> you pull the brake just a little to slow down gradually and risk having it
> fade and become useless? Or would you pull it decisively so as to lock it up
> before it has a chance to fade from overheat? Would pulling it too hard at
> speed bust up the brake and leave you with nothing?
>
> Or how about hitting the "R" button at road speed? Is there a lockout to
> keep it from going to reverse at certain speeds? That maneuver may possibly
> throw your car in a spin, but prudently done it might be better than
> coasting a half mile looking for a soft tree to stop you.
>
> 
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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