RE: [Chrysler300] Put on your paint and powder, you shout loud, I'll shout lo...

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

In Australia, from Jan 1 this last year, making Auto paint that contains lead is banned, and for a fair few years now, painting any car, is only supposed to be in a commercial spray booth.

A good two pack respray, if the car panels all already repaired and in base two pack primer, is now around minimum $12,000 -$15.000.  Sheets of 1000 grade wet and dry sandpaper are around $2 each, a 20 litre drum of GP thinners about $100.  And I suppose the 'dogooders that are saving our planet', will like the USA soon ban all non water based auto paints.

 

Like Bill, I 'primitively' lacquer painted my first few cars, they all pre 1930s, and they looked good for then, but not the 'better than new/factory' concours jobs nowadays seemingly mandatory on cars that were not much of cars new, let alone nowadays.

Chrome platers have to jump through govt untold red tape if they wish to still use copper as the usual first plating coat, which if not used, means your shiny chrome likely will not last wettting.


Has the fun gone out of 'old cars' - only if we let it. Maybe years ago when we bought them more for the fun and use they gave, rather than trying nowadays to instead play the 'restoration better than new' god ?!

 

Car collectors should/could maybe sometimes speak out more re the way we are targeted for supposedly harming the world - yet look at all the plastic/chemical used everywhere else 'non car', never mind what harm is cutting down milions of acres of rainforrest for profit doing, versus the carbon footprint of 30+ year old 'non plastic' cars/300s ?!!

 

Christopher Australia

ps brake tip for those putting stainless sleeves in their 300 brake wheel cylinders - do not adjust brake shoes so tight they drag, such you can feel the shoes out on the drums when turning by hand if jacked off the ground - it will overheat whole drum, backing assembly, then transfer heat into brake fluid, and this heated fluid when cooling in turn will attract moisture, such it may corrode the metal/alloy cylinder cups in your sleeved wheel cylinder such it seizes in the cylinder - a friend's '56 Tbird did this in just over 3 years, such it locked on his front brakes. A hint of how hot it/fluid had been getting, was his master cylinder cap had seized, had clearly visible rust round it's threaded base part.  And clearly his fluid had not been changed as is often suggested - it looking pretty sad/bad.

 

 


To: mwl1967@xxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
CC: Mwl1967@xxxxxxx
From: czbill@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2009 07:05:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Put on your paint and powder, you shout loud, I'll shout lo...

  



Snip.

When I was but a callow youth I used to paint cars for a little extra 
money. A little one lung ex-water cooler compressor, a toilet paper 
filter and a very old Devilbiss gun was all the equipment I had. If 
you came to me you had a choice of 4-5 colors because I used to use 
Glidden spray on enamel from the hardware store. They weren't show 
cars by any means, but they looked good and the paint was smooth, 
very seldom had a run. Occasionally I would have to use a toothpick 
to dig a bug off the paint and do a touch up. These were older cars 
that folks didn't want to invest $200-$300 at the local Facto Bake or 
what have you.

Point of this is that I kept in touch with a couple of the cars over 
the years and the paint was still in good shape 15-20 years later. I 
even compounded one out for the owner a number of years later, and it 
looked real good. The old alkyd enamel paints were pretty good if 
maintained and so are the single stage hardened enamels today. The 
new enamels can be sanded and polished if desired, the old enamels 
took years to fully harden.

After reading an old book on early 20th century car painting, Audels 
or Clymers or something of that ilk, I even painted my old '69 Dodge 
pickup with a paint brush and Dulux brushing enamel. I used an 
expensive china bristle brush and was astounded how the paint flowed 
together and left a smooth surface about as good as the factory 
surface on a truck in those days.

When I have the 300D ready for paint, it will be done with hardened 
acrylic enamel.

Sorry for the long story, you just stirred some dormant memory cells. :^)

Bill Huff

>Anyway folks, paint your car with Dutch Boy or Glidden for all I care
>but at least have fun while you're doing it.








 		 	   		  
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