Narve: Some random considerations. 12-Volt coils start on 12 Volts, but usually run on 6 Volts. It would be productive to learn of the differences in windings and primary/secondary resistance between 6-Volt and 12-Volt coils. 6-Volt power is routed to the coil from the ignition switch via a connection at the horn relay. The wire from the horn relay to the coil just floats around the top of the engine and could easily have its insulation worn through and be shorting out. And, condensers can and do fail. Mine failed after I returned the car's battery polarity from negative ground to proper positive ground. I believe the Pertronix distributor requires a special coil for best performance. Coils are also polarized with a + and a - on the two small terminals. I assume the hot wire from the horn relay should be connected to the - terminal, but could use confirmation of this. My 1955 C-300 with 80,000 miles starts very easily if it has fuel in the carbs to be accelerator-pumped into the manifold. Otherwise, it requires lots of cranking to bring fuel from the tank. But, it does have two manual chokes installed by some previous owner so I have absolute control over that. I have been able to flood it several times when trying to start it with starter fluid. I have found the distributor cap to sometimes be difficult to install squarely as the cap lugs that fit into the distributor body are not that large or well formed. Make sure the cap is installed squarely with the lugs firmly in their matching notches. I have not had this problem on any MoPar, but GM cars sometimes suck in moist air into their distributor body. The moisture condenses on the inside of the distributor cap and prevents proper rotor-cap electrical gap jumping and the car won't start until the inside of the cap is dried. In the end, failure to start violates all the laws of chemistry and physics--unless something is wrong. My '86 LeBaron totally died on me the other day when its timing belt failed. Fuel and air in the right proportion plus a hot and well-timed spark=RUMBLE! Best wishes for a Happy C-300'ly New Year up in the north country. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA -----Original Message----- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 9:37 AM To: jlsavard@xxxxxxx; narve.n@xxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Starting problems for C-300 - a challenge for the new year --- Original Message --- From: jlsavard@xxxxxxx To: narve.n@xxxxxxx, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Starting problems for C-300 - a challenge for the new year >In a message dated 1/3/2008 11:46:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >narve.n@xxxxxxx writes: > >my C-300 has been reluctant to start since I bought it back in 85 and almost >countless hours have been spent on trying to make it better, plus I have >learned a few tricks down the road too. Is it possible that the coil has been replaced with a 12V unit??? To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ Yahoo! Groups Links To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/