Re: [Chrysler300] Brainstorming & Troubleshooting Req'd - '65 300

[Marshall Larson <yelof@xxxxxxxx>]

 To help find a vacuum leak use a propane torch, "not lit of course". 
Run the torch tip slowly along intake gasket seams, hoses and hose
connections.  If there is a leak the engine RPM will increase when the
added fuel is pulled into the engine.  If there is a leak this should
pinpoint it.

Minnesota Marshall
Red G

 
On Wed, 09 May 2007 13:53:25 -0700 "Ryan Hill"
<ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Many months ago this group was quite involved in solving a problem 
> with a 
> freshly rebuilt 383 in my '65 300 Sport. The car would start and 
> then 
> promptly starve and die. That problem turned out to be a small 
> oversight 
> (error) I made when rebuilding the carb. I had reversed the metering 
> jets 
> causing the engine to die as soon as the vacuum pulled the metering 
> rods 
> down into the (now) smaller jets. The problem was identified and 
> corrected 
> as a result of this groups collective knowledge and experience.
> 
> I have yet to register and drive the car at this point.
> 
> Since that time the engine has continued to start and run but has 
> never run 
> well. It runs as though there is a miss at idle, the exhaust is 
> somewhat 
> blue (smoke), and if I crack the throttle it sometimes will pop. All 
> these 
> signs pointed toa vacuum leak. The intake was port matched to the 
> heads and 
> the valley pan gasket matches perfectly. I did inspect and replace 
> the 
> valley pan and found no typical signs of a leak. To be sure the new 
> gasket 
> was sealed I used a silcone gasket sealer on both sides of the 
> valley pan 
> gasket. There was no change.
> 
> I have installed a Pertronix ignition with Fireball coil, new Taylor 
> plug 
> leads, new plugs, a new Edelbrock AFB carb, checked the cam timing 
> with a 
> degree wheel, indexed the balancer timing mark to TDC, checked the 
> firing 
> order, checked the fuel pressure, measured the valve clearance to 
> ensure 
> valves are closing, measured the compression (all cylinders are 
> within 3 psi 
> and strong), and adjusted the timing between 0 and 20 degrees 
> initial.
> 
> I'm back to thinking it's a vacuum leak, does anyone have any ideas? 
> The car 
> has the original manual brakes (for now). Does anyone know of any 
> tricks to 
> seal the valley pan? The heads have never been decked so there isn't 
> enough 
> room for additional gaskets to add on either side of the valley pan 
> (intake) 
> gasket. Do most builders even use silicone or just install the pan 
> gasket as 
> the factory did. I can't imagine how it could matter but I'm growing 
> 
> concerned that I may have caused a problem when I port matched the 
> heads 
> and/or intake to the original valley pan gasket. Any thoughts?
> 
> I need to drive this car this summer and I'm getting near the end of 
> my rope 
> dealing with the bugs on this engine. It ran like a champ in 2001 
> when I 
> drove the sad looking beater back from California. I should have 
> left 
> well-enough alone and lived with the cracked ring for a while.
> 
> Thanks guys! Ryan Hill in Vancouver, Canada.
> 
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