Re: [Chrysler300] Brainstorming & Troubleshooting Req'd - '65 300

["johnl" <john@xxxxxxxxx>]

Ryan,

This may sound really stupid and you may have already done so, but if not give it a try.  Over the years I've experienced vacuum leaks at different places on some of my cars.  

One was a break booster and as soon as I plugged the inlet to the manifold the problem went away.  Other leaks have been solved simply by shooting carb / brake cleaner or even something like WD40 around where you suspect a leak.  If there is a leak the idle will change as soon as it sucks up the fluid.

There are probably more sophisticated ways to check, but this was shown to me when I was just a lad and that wasn't yesterday.

Good luck,

John Lazenby

1955 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe Town & Country
1955 Imperial Newport
1955 Chrysler C300 Tango Red
1956 Chrysler 300B Cloud White
1957 Chrysler 300C Coupe Raven Black
1960 Chrysler 300F Coupe Alaskan White
1963 Volkswagen Beetle Black
2001 BMW ///M5 (A Modern Super Car)
http://www.bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=18

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ryan Hill 
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 1:53 PM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Brainstorming & Troubleshooting Req'd - '65 300


  Many months ago this group was quite involved in solving a problem with a 
  freshly rebuilt 383 in my '65 300 Sport. The car would start and then 
  promptly starve and die. That problem turned out to be a small oversight 
  (error) I made when rebuilding the carb. I had reversed the metering jets 
  causing the engine to die as soon as the vacuum pulled the metering rods 
  down into the (now) smaller jets. The problem was identified and corrected 
  as a result of this groups collective knowledge and experience.

  I have yet to register and drive the car at this point.

  Since that time the engine has continued to start and run but has never run 
  well. It runs as though there is a miss at idle, the exhaust is somewhat 
  blue (smoke), and if I crack the throttle it sometimes will pop. All these 
  signs pointed toa vacuum leak. The intake was port matched to the heads and 
  the valley pan gasket matches perfectly. I did inspect and replace the 
  valley pan and found no typical signs of a leak. To be sure the new gasket 
  was sealed I used a silcone gasket sealer on both sides of the valley pan 
  gasket. There was no change.

  I have installed a Pertronix ignition with Fireball coil, new Taylor plug 
  leads, new plugs, a new Edelbrock AFB carb, checked the cam timing with a 
  degree wheel, indexed the balancer timing mark to TDC, checked the firing 
  order, checked the fuel pressure, measured the valve clearance to ensure 
  valves are closing, measured the compression (all cylinders are within 3 psi 
  and strong), and adjusted the timing between 0 and 20 degrees initial.

  I'm back to thinking it's a vacuum leak, does anyone have any ideas? The car 
  has the original manual brakes (for now). Does anyone know of any tricks to 
  seal the valley pan? The heads have never been decked so there isn't enough 
  room for additional gaskets to add on either side of the valley pan (intake) 
  gasket. Do most builders even use silicone or just install the pan gasket as 
  the factory did. I can't imagine how it could matter but I'm growing 
  concerned that I may have caused a problem when I port matched the heads 
  and/or intake to the original valley pan gasket. Any thoughts?

  I need to drive this car this summer and I'm getting near the end of my rope 
  dealing with the bugs on this engine. It ran like a champ in 2001 when I 
  drove the sad looking beater back from California. I should have left 
  well-enough alone and lived with the cracked ring for a while.

  Thanks guys! Ryan Hill in Vancouver, Canada.

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