[Chrysler300] Digest Number 915
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
[Chrysler300] Digest Number 915
- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 6 Mar 2004 13:29:43 -0000
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360° Tours, Research,
Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used
http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/8LmulB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Parts available 300G (?)
From: "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: judging
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: judging
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. judging & pre-registration for Concours
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Gasket sets
From: "Dave Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Parts, Parts,Parts
From: Hari Walner <quilting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Gasket sets
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Gasket sets
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Steering Wheel Restoration
From: "ken boyd" <Kenrand65@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 09:38:00 -0700
From: "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts available 300G (?)
There is a 300 coupe at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Phoenix, AZ. What I saw in quick passing from 50' out (fleeing a bad storm) was something that might be parted out or for sale whole. Probably not an AZ car as bad rust on top front of left front fender. Side spears, some grill etc.
If you are not familiar with Desert Valley, this is their entire business; dealing with old cars. For instance, they had a large, very professional crate of (Ford, Lincoln?) quarters ready to ship to Germany when I was there yesterday. And, as will happen, my dealings with Desert Valley have been skittish at times and my overall experience has been satisfactory. Information only to maybe help someone. www.dvap.com.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 11:25:53 -0600
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: judging
Hi Ben;
Jim Krausmann's response was right on the mark, but there's 1 other thing
thats important, Attitude.
A very wise long time member, Dudley Finneyfrock, explaned it to me. He said
that "He brought his car to be judged. He asked the judges to examine his
car and tell him what was wrong or needed improvement". When they were
finished, he'd thank them very much, take the judgeing sheet home and leave
it alone for a week or so. Then he's take the sheet and look at the items
that lost points. If he agreed, he'd fix it. If he thought they were a
little too critical, or wrong, he'd leave it alone. He never argued with
the judges, after all, he asked. In this fashion, he created a consistant
award winning 1970 300 Hurst, which is now on display in the Chrysler
Museaum.
By the way, the judges are busting their butts crawing around over and under
other peoples cars for hours , while everyone else is enjoying the day. they
get nothing other than lunch out of it. Give them a break, cars are entered,
they examine, owners should accept gracefully. NEVER ask a question if you
don't want the answer.
I encourage you to have any 300 Letter car you can bring to a meet, Judged
at least once. That will give you a baseline to do your restoration from.
Many do this and never have it judged again. They just enjoy.
As far as peoples choice this is where the members judge the Letter cars in
attendance, in 4 classes, by year groups, and the most votes gets the gold.
No standards, just what the members liked. I sometimes vote for a driver
over a well restored car, just because I think it's better to drive them a
lot and enjoy them in their natural enviroment....on the road! But a well
restored car is a sight to behold. I love them all.
As far as "improvements" go, it's your car, do it "your way"!
Hope to see you in Concours (just for the experiance), Ray
--
Ray Jones, Jones Ridge, in the Ouachita Mtns near Mena, Western Arkansas
> From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
> Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 20:48:57 -0800
> To: Chrysler 300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] judging
>
> Hi Club;
>
> Forgive me for being a fool . Would someone in the club , preferably judges
> answer these questions.
> (1) what does a concourse car , represent . how is it judged . what are the
> marks for each section. what forms the deductions for a 300 letter car.
>
> (2) What constitutes a peoples choice award . what are the judging parameters
> . again what are the deductions .
>
> (3) are there classes at the meets for people such as myself, who drive our
> cars as much as possible . Last year seven thousand miles after June 24th.
> till October 30th ( winter in Canada )
>
> (A) I make as good an effort as possible at trying to make the car original.
> But when it comes for example to the clock. I convert it to Quartz to ensure
> that it will run into the next century . I have power coated my rims in the
> interest of making sure that they will never rust and will be around for the
> next hundred years even if it is driven. I have added new under coating on the
> under side to ensure that rust never ever gets on the floor pans . similarly
> on the interior . I have changed the bolts that have shown obvious rust wear
> to stainless steel again to ensure that they never are the cause of rust . I
> have power coated the supports for the bumper again to make sure they never
> will rust again. does all of this make my car a failure in the eyes of judges
> . I have the correct interior, motor , paint colors for air cleaners etc. I
> have tried as best as possible to build a car that will last well into the
> future , I believe in my heart it is far better then when it originally
> rolled off the assembly line. I wonder aloud and I'm sure as do many people
> who belong to this list and are afraid to ask.
>
>
> Thank you judges...
>
> Ben Meisner
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:00:55 -0800
From: "Roger Schaaf" <obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: judging
Would anyone care to comment on whether wire wheels get dinged on a 300 B.
Some say yes, some say not(was dealer installed only, this was the case also
of some items such as hubcaps or radio antenna or floor mats--I do not know
if this is true or not--).
What about paint? Enamel verses one or two stage polyurhethanes or lacquer.
What of windows without factory bugs(emblems!!Corvette guys get you on this
as well as over restoring), factory overspray, proper mufflers and clamps,
hoses with factory part numbers and on and on.
I believe what I am asking, is if there is a rule book or judge's pamphlet
that covers all these details, or is it all subjective to the decision of
the judges at that particular meet.
Something that threw some of us off(one fellow had towed an incredible 300 C
some 400 miles) at the Jett Ranch meet was that you could not register for
Concour at the meet itself. This was not made totally clear that
registration for Concour could only be done at the time as the general
registration for the meet.
What purpose does this serve other then eliminate some potential Concour
cars from competing as happened at that meet. I myself thought that I had
read the general registration application closely and felt that I had the
option to register for the Concour upon arrival at the meet(my car was under
some major work at that time and was uncertain if it would be ready--as
incidentally was the 400 mile trip car--).
Of course we were both extremely disappointed at the ruling made upon
attempting to register at the meet. The Concour had an extremely small
turnout as most autos that showed up were put into street show and we know
the quality and accuracy of judging in these.
Incidentally the OTHER club does not have such a rule.
Roger Schaaf
300 B California
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Jones" <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Ben Meisner" <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>; "Chrysler 300"
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] judging
> Hi Ben;
> Jim Krausmann's response was right on the mark, but there's 1 other thing
> thats important, Attitude.
>
> A very wise long time member, Dudley Finneyfrock, explaned it to me. He
said
> that "He brought his car to be judged. He asked the judges to examine his
> car and tell him what was wrong or needed improvement". When they were
> finished, he'd thank them very much, take the judgeing sheet home and
leave
> it alone for a week or so. Then he's take the sheet and look at the items
> that lost points. If he agreed, he'd fix it. If he thought they were a
> little too critical, or wrong, he'd leave it alone. He never argued with
> the judges, after all, he asked. In this fashion, he created a consistant
> award winning 1970 300 Hurst, which is now on display in the Chrysler
> Museaum.
>
> By the way, the judges are busting their butts crawing around over and
under
> other peoples cars for hours , while everyone else is enjoying the day.
they
> get nothing other than lunch out of it. Give them a break, cars are
entered,
> they examine, owners should accept gracefully. NEVER ask a question if you
> don't want the answer.
>
> I encourage you to have any 300 Letter car you can bring to a meet, Judged
> at least once. That will give you a baseline to do your restoration from.
> Many do this and never have it judged again. They just enjoy.
>
> As far as peoples choice this is where the members judge the Letter cars
in
> attendance, in 4 classes, by year groups, and the most votes gets the
gold.
> No standards, just what the members liked. I sometimes vote for a driver
> over a well restored car, just because I think it's better to drive them a
> lot and enjoy them in their natural enviroment....on the road! But a well
> restored car is a sight to behold. I love them all.
>
> As far as "improvements" go, it's your car, do it "your way"!
>
> Hope to see you in Concours (just for the experiance), Ray
> --
> Ray Jones, Jones Ridge, in the Ouachita Mtns near Mena, Western Arkansas
>
> > From: Ben Meisner <meisnerinc@xxxxxxx>
> > Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 20:48:57 -0800
> > To: Chrysler 300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] judging
> >
> > Hi Club;
> >
> > Forgive me for being a fool . Would someone in the club , preferably
judges
> > answer these questions.
> > (1) what does a concourse car , represent . how is it judged . what are
the
> > marks for each section. what forms the deductions for a 300 letter car.
> >
> > (2) What constitutes a peoples choice award . what are the judging
parameters
> > . again what are the deductions .
> >
> > (3) are there classes at the meets for people such as myself, who drive
our
> > cars as much as possible . Last year seven thousand miles after June
24th.
> > till October 30th ( winter in Canada )
> >
> > (A) I make as good an effort as possible at trying to make the car
original.
> > But when it comes for example to the clock. I convert it to Quartz to
ensure
> > that it will run into the next century . I have power coated my rims in
the
> > interest of making sure that they will never rust and will be around for
the
> > next hundred years even if it is driven. I have added new under coating
on the
> > under side to ensure that rust never ever gets on the floor pans .
similarly
> > on the interior . I have changed the bolts that have shown obvious rust
wear
> > to stainless steel again to ensure that they never are the cause of rust
. I
> > have power coated the supports for the bumper again to make sure they
never
> > will rust again. does all of this make my car a failure in the eyes of
judges
> > . I have the correct interior, motor , paint colors for air cleaners
etc. I
> > have tried as best as possible to build a car that will last well into
the
> > future , I believe in my heart it is far better then when it originally
> > rolled off the assembly line. I wonder aloud and I'm sure as do many
people
> > who belong to this list and are afraid to ask.
> >
> >
> > Thank you judges...
> >
> > Ben Meisner
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 15:28:28 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: judging & pre-registration for Concours
Roger,
Pre-registration is required to enter a car in Concours so that the judges
may adequately prepare to judge said vehicle. This preparation entails
pulling up microfilm records for that particular car and having the relevant
info available to the judges the day of the concours. This must be done
well in advance of the meet.
Remember, cars are judged on an "as-built" basis. Points are deducted for
dealer-added items, owner-added items, wrong color, etc. ; there would be no
way for the judges to know what is correct on any given car without the
microfilm dedcoding and interpretation at hand.
Perhaps the Club needs to advise members more clearly that pre-registration
is required for Concours cars? I do not recall ever having a problem with
concours, anytime I entered this car or that, but then again, I had
preregistered.
And, Roger, trying to compare this Club with the Chrysler 300 Club Inc. (the
"other" Club, as you refer to it), is absolutely pointless and irrelevant.
Each Club has much to offer to its members, but in completely different
ways. Judging standards are completely different in each Club.
John Hertog
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:26:48 +1300
From: "Dave Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gasket sets
Group,
I have a Fel-Pro engine teardown kit for MoPar BB engines, FS7891PT11 which I have had to rat for various bits for a 413.
Looking on e-Bay, I see full sets of ROL gaskets being offered by a vendor with thousands of positive feedbacks, and no negatives.
These ROL sets interchange with the same Fel-pro numbers, plus, the vendor throws in a valley pan gasket.
He asks about $46 for the whole set, which seems like extraordinarily good value to me.
Anyone have any experience of ROL ?
Also, what is better? Steel shim head gaslets.........or composite? Or, is there nothing in it?
Thanks in advance folks.
Dave in New Zealand.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 19:05:33 -0700
From: Hari Walner <quilting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts, Parts,Parts
Howdy,
The following parts are up for a blind bid by members of this fine
club. Bidding will close at midnight 3/14/04 and high bidder will be
notified by e-mail. Shipping is not included. Once bidding is closed
we can discuss your part(s) by e-mail or phone and shipping
arrangements. You don't have to pay until you receive your goods.
(That's why it's club members only.) Not interested in E-bay and these
parts have never been advertised anywhere. Some are new and some are
only fair but I thought they were worth saving. Please do not respond
to the list server. Here goes...
1. 64K 360hp muffler, Mopar Sono 8X mfg 11-62 looks new but it is
used. Don't know what else it fits.
2. 64 right side exhaust manifold head pipe for 360hp(short pipe)
part#2265952 New.
3. 64 anti-rattle stop for heat riser. New
4. 64 muffler hangers for 360hp (2) New Mopar NA1845
5. 64 mounting brackets for sway bar. (inside of frame, front of
engine) 2 used with tired bushings
6. 63 std AM radio used (looks like junk to me)
7. 63/64 removable fender shields for ram engine, right and left. used
8. 63/64 ram air filters (1) CA165PL, (1) WIX, I think they are new or
used very little
9. 64 black vynal head rests (2) used, one side panel is cracked from sun.
10. 64 black arm rest pads (2) L/F (1) R/F
11. 63/64 alternator single pulley rebuilt but not painted upgraded to
60 amp, casting numbers 2095191&2.
12. 63/64 L/S remote control mirrors (2) complete used probably need
rechromed BUT no pits.
13. 63/64 R/S mirror used, no pits
14. HOT ITEM. Champion spark plugs. NEW
5 - XJ-10Y (2098380)
2 - J-10Y
3 - UJ-10Y
3 - RJ-10Y
2 - XJ-12Y
3 - H-18Y (2421155)
2 - XN-14Y(2098362)
15. 63 backup lens, R-63C (4), 64 turn signal lens amber DP-63C
16. 63 taillight assy's, right and left, used, minor pitting on left
17. 63 Vacuum gauge (faded) and shifter and console parts. No cables.
18. 63 armrests, claret, one set has 2" crack at the front on right and
left but no distortion. Second set has 1" crack on right armrest no
cracks on left.
19. 63 300 grill medallion fair, no pits in chrome, also front hood
mldg with couple of dings.
20. 63 Pacesetter side mouldings, all 6 but only one is in good
condition and I don't know if it's the right or left quarter panel. 2
others are fair
21. 65 300 wheel cover center, fair to good.
22. 62 cruise control, all needed parts (I think) 2257989 used, don't
know if it works.(Perfect Circle)
23. 60/61 rear power antenna assy. All there, but I don't think it
works. Antenna is retracted and appears in good shape.
24. 64 Hemi fuel pump new 2585118
25. Grab bag, new dist cap tan 4176031, Accel chrome coil used P3698560,
bushings for distrib 2275229, rtn spgs for advance plate IBS4011D.
26. Assorted junk carbs, bare 3505S, partial 3251S, 2652S, 3447SA,
assorted broken carb kits etc.
Gordon Snow
7508 Paul Place
Loveland, CO 80537
quilting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 22:05:39 -0500
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Gasket sets
Dave,
Never used ROL products so I can't comment. This reply is more directed to
your question about steel shim-vs-composite head gaskets. The comparison is
not a matter of "good"-vs-"bad" but more a question of application.
First, steel shims are .024in compressed thickness while composites are
.038in to .042in compressed thickness. The thick gaskets will drop the
compression ration about a point.
Steel shim gaskets require straight, flat block deck and cylinder head
surfaces or else they leak water or compression. These surfaces need to be
.0015in or better when checked using straight edge and feeler gages.
Composite gaskets are much more forgiving with regard to flatness.
The thicker gaskets will raise the cylinder head installed position. This
caused the intake manifold to set lower than intended sometimes leading to
port and bolt hole alignment problems. Bolt holes in the manifold can be
filed oblong to allow the capscrews to go in without interference.
In summary, if you have freshly surfaced block and heads and good quality
fuel in your area (94 octane) use the steel shims. If you have old crooked
decks and bad gas, use the composites.
Regards,
Larry Johnson
>From: "Dave Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: "Chrysler 300 Listserver" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Gasket sets
>Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:26:48 +1300
>Group,
> I have a Fel-Pro engine teardown kit for MoPar BB engines,
>FS7891PT11 which I have had to rat for various bits for a 413.
>Looking on e-Bay, I see full sets of ROL gaskets being offered by a vendor
>with thousands of positive feedbacks, and no negatives.
>These ROL sets interchange with the same Fel-pro numbers, plus, the vendor
>throws in a valley pan gasket.
>He asks about $46 for the whole set, which seems like extraordinarily good
>value to me.
>Anyone have any experience of ROL ?
>Also, what is better? Steel shim head gaslets.........or composite? Or,
>is there nothing in it?
> Thanks in advance folks.
> Dave in New Zealand.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar ? get it now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 19:44:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Russ Vaughan <Pacesetter300@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gasket sets
Dave,
The ROL gaskets I have seen appear to be very well made. It is possible they, like others make different quality levels. I would suspect by the price the set you mention is not a premium set. Stay away from cork and look for composite material instead, it has much better sealing power and is worth the extra expense.
The FelPro composite head gaskets for a Big Block are $43 each. In my toughest application, I used the small block version in a 13 - 1 360 used in oval track racing without a failure. Small blocks have only 10 head bolts (per head) as opposed to the 17 of a big block. They have more of a propensity to blow a head gasket under extreme conditions because of less holding force. For a stock rebuild, with say a 413 10 - 1 engine as opposed to steel shim gaskets they will shave a few tenths of a point compression, which is not a bad thing with modern gasoline. Stock Chrysler engines used steel shim gaskets with really no problems, I just like the extra insurance of the high performance FelPros
300ly
Russ Vaughan
Dave Agnew <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Group,
I have a Fel-Pro engine teardown kit for MoPar BB engines, FS7891PT11 which I have had to rat for various bits for a 413.
Looking on e-Bay, I see full sets of ROL gaskets being offered by a vendor with thousands of positive feedbacks, and no negatives.
These ROL sets interchange with the same Fel-pro numbers, plus, the vendor throws in a valley pan gasket.
He asks about $46 for the whole set, which seems like extraordinarily good value to me.
Anyone have any experience of ROL ?
Also, what is better? Steel shim head gaslets.........or composite? Or, is there nothing in it?
Thanks in advance folks.
Dave in New Zealand.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 06:13:31 -0700
From: "ken boyd" <Kenrand65@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Steering Wheel Restoration
I see posts quite often on Steering Wheeel Restoration.
Shrock Brothers in PA are restoring Studebaker Wheels as well as hard to
find rubber parts.
Maybe if we get a list together of those members that are in need of having
a wheel restored someone could contact them with the needs and see if they
would take on the project (Maybe a Club Project).
Their price for a Studebaker wheel is vey resonable compared to some other
vendors. They just released a GT Hawk wheel at $450.00 which is quite
complicated to restore.
Put me down for a "61.
Go to WWW.SHROCKBROTHERS.COM to check out their stuff. Currently they are
strickly Studebaker.
Maybe someone has already tried this?
Ken Boyd
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar ? get it now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap