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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Headlights
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Fw: "The Industry's Speed Shop"
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. over heating 392
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Front end hell!
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: over heating 392
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: over heating 392
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: over heating 392
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
8. Re: over heating 392
From: Dale Slattengren <dale57-300chrysler@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: over heating 392
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Additional attendee's
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 08:18:53 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlights
It is normal for the park lites to be out with the headlights on, all cars
were like that until the federal government mandated them on ,with the
headlights, in the late sixties. You should check your dimmer switch
first,
then check the wiring from the dimmer switch out to the headlights. Also,
while the hood is up, clean & tighten every ground connection you can
find,
good grounds are very important to make everything work as intended.
Mike
At 11:18 PM 8/30/02 -0400, Myles Wallace wrote:
>Hi folks --
>Getting darker earlier as we move into September and look to address a
>problem with the headlights. Parking lights work fine, hi-beams cut a
>super bright path but no headlights - zip, none whatsoever (yet they are
>lit when the hi-beams are on , also noticed parking lights lit only when
>switch is 1/2 way out -- not on when switch is pulled out completely).
>Thus, with the light switch completely pulled out, there are no front
>lights at all unless the hi-beam floor switch is activated. Can't blind
>fellow drivers much longer as we did this evening on the way home from a
>nice local car cruise. Any suggestions on the likely culprit?
>
>Regards
>Myles - 300G
>
>http://www.nauticom.net
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 12:22:41 -0500
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: "The Industry's Speed Shop"
Chrysler Group says they are "The Industry's Speed Shop". Read about some
of their plans for this fall's SEMA show in Vegas if you are interested in
"the now" at Chrysler.
http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/stories.pl?ACCT=104&STORY=/www/story/08-
29-2002/0001791549&EDATE=
Wayne
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:56:32 -0700
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: over heating 392
The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
1) radiator has new core
2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
fill hole)
3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when the
cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck
thermostat(no thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be
it).
4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
radiator engine cools down right away.
seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 12:04:35 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front end hell!
Still assembling my '62 300 front end. Need advice, please:
The upper & lower ball joints are all new and I have followed the manual
tightening references, though something seems funny. The torqued down
nuts are quite lower than the cotter key holes, so that when I install
the cotter keys the nut points are much lower than the key. Thus the
key does not correspond to any of the nut points. Make sense? Here's
what the manual tells me to tighten the ball joint studs to (where they
meet the spindles):
Upper 100
Lower 135
Center Link drops on top of the idler & pitman arms. Nuts are threaded
below the arms onto the center link studs. I hit the nuts with my air
gun & the studs spin in their sockets. How can I get the studs to bite
in their holes so that I can tighten them?
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 14:38:28 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
If you changed the water pump, make sure it's the correct one. Check that
the blades inside are deep enough ond have the same number of fins. All
that
will fit are not the same, I've found some that have had a shallower blade
assy inside and therefore don't move much water (too much clearance
between
the blade and the back of the cavity).
Good Luck, Ray
> From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:56:32 -0700
> To: "Chrysler Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>
> The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
> 1) radiator has new core
> 2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
fill
> hole)
> 3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when
the cap
> is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck thermostat(no
> thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be it).
> 4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
radiator
> engine cools down right away.
>
> seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
would
> cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
>
> Zak
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:54:29 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
Hi David
How come you're not running a thermostat? With a thermostat installed,
would
it allow the water a little more time in the radiator to cool down rather
than having the water circulate through the motor
continuously...........possibly preventing the overheating problem?
Not sure if I'm correct here or not......anyone else agree/disagree?
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: David Zakarian <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
> The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
> 1) radiator has new core
> 2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
fill hole)
> 3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when
the
cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck
thermostat(no
thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be it).
> 4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
radiator engine cools down right away.
>
> seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
>
> Zak
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 21:59:46 EDT
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: over heating 392
Take the car to a radiator shop and check for combustion gases, they have
a
kit that will do that. You probably have a blown head gasket or a cracked
head. Quentin Smith
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 21:43:58 -0700
From: Dale Slattengren <dale57-300chrysler@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
Good idea to use a 160 thermostat and drill a couple 1/8 inch holes so
air does not get traped while filling. Sometimes bad head gasket or
cracked head will leave little bubbles coming to the top of the
radiator. Good luck
David Zakarian wrote:
>The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
>1) radiator has new core
>2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
fill hole)
>3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when
the cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck
thermostat(no thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be
it).
>4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
radiator engine cools down right away.
>
>seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
>
>Zak
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 00:04:22 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
Dale Slattengren wrote:
>
> Good idea to use a 160 thermostat and drill a couple 1/8 inch holes
> so air does not get traped while filling. Sometimes bad head gasket
> or cracked head will leave little bubbles coming to the top of the
> radiator. Good luck
> David Zakarian wrote:
Back in the mid 70's this problem in my 392 was ONLY cured by a real
Good cleaning of the water jacket of the block. It was filled up
with gunk to the tops of the casting plugs. Knocked out the plugs
and no water excaped. Crud was fairly hard to remove. DRASTIC
measures were employed to save this particular motor.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 00:12:56 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Additional attendee's
Hi Al;
You can add Alan Alkus to those coming. He hasen't been to a meet in 11
years and can only come Fri night and Sat day. Has a new wife and a 5 yr
old
girl. He still has several Chryslers.
Carl Kreps tells me he heard from the Gorse's and they will be there also.
Staying up the street in the campgrounds with their dog.
See ya there, Ray Jones
________________________________________________________________________
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