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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. TOOK FIRST PLACE AGAIN
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
2. Re: over heating 392
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Front end hell!
From: "Chris and TJ" <flip7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Fwd: over heating 392
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300L Convert for sale
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
6. Fwd: For Sale 68 Chrysler 300
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: over heating 392
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Front end hell!
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: over heating 392
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
10. 300D rims
From: "Danny Hagen" <dhagen@xxxxxx>
11. Camshaft needed
From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:35:59 EDT
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: TOOK FIRST PLACE AGAIN
Dear Members:
Just wanted to keep you up to date,,,On August 17th 2002, Teddy entered our
60
300 F at the Roadster Car Club for Cruising Night in Glendale and took the
award called "PYRAMID PICK OF SHOW".
Then on Sunday the 25th of August Teddy tried his luck one more time at the
Boeing Canoga Park Car Show and Again 1st Place I it's call. Just to mention
the 2nd place went to AC COBRA.
It was so much fun... We now have 7 Plaques and 3 rather beautiful trophy's
and just think we only started to go to shows the last year....
Thanks for listening.
Keep driving.
Teddy and Louise
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 11:45:31 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
I had much the same problem on my "L". At about 400,000 miles, I noticed
some dripping/seeping. When I checked up on the lift. I could see rusty
freeze plugs. When I removed them there was solid mud behind the plugs. The
mud was the only thing keeping them from leaking. I dug the mud out with
wire through the freeze plug holes. Rooted aroung the water jackets and
suchlike and then flushed with high pressure water through the holes also.
I replaced them with Marine Brass plugs, and haven't had any problem since
Good luck, Ray Jones
> From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 00:04:22 -0500
> To: Dale Slattengren <dale57-300chrysler@xxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: David Zakarian <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>, Chrysler Club
> <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>
> Dale Slattengren wrote:
>>
>> Good idea to use a 160 thermostat and drill a couple 1/8 inch holes
>> so air does not get traped while filling. Sometimes bad head gasket
>> or cracked head will leave little bubbles coming to the top of the
>> radiator. Good luck
>
>> David Zakarian wrote:
>
> Back in the mid 70's this problem in my 392 was ONLY cured by a real
> Good cleaning of the water jacket of the block. It was filled up
> with gunk to the tops of the casting plugs. Knocked out the plugs
> and no water excaped. Crud was fairly hard to remove. DRASTIC
> measures were employed to save this particular motor.
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:45:36 -0700
From: "Chris and TJ" <flip7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front end hell!
Matt,
Have you compared the new castle nut height with that of the old ones?
Castle nuts and slotted nuts are available in different heights. In the
process of doing my front end, I lost one of the slotted nuts for the lower
control arm shaft. After I bought a new one at my local NAPA. I discovered
it was shorter than the one on the other side and did as you described.
Looked all over Albuquerque to no avail for one the same height. Finally
had to go to the McMaster-Carr website,
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=slottednut&session=desc=Nu
ts;slottednut, and order it. Couldn't beat the deal, $.35 charged to the
credit card with free shipping and I got exactly what I needed!
As far as the centerlink goes, make sure both the holes in the idler/pitman
arms and the studs on the centerlink are free of grease. I'd wipe off the
stud shafts and holes with a degreaser. Also before you install the
centerlink, thread the nuts on by hand and make sure they thread all the way
on freely. There may be paint or whatever on the threads causing the nut to
tighten prematurely. Once you have the centerlink in place, you may even
want to give the back of it at the studs a slight tap with a plastic mallet
to help get it seated before you try to tighten. If the problem seems more
than just a slight slipping, I'd compare the studs on the new or rebuilt
centerlink with the studs on the old one. You'll need to keep the stud
taper in mind when you measure. Just a wild shot in the dark, but it could
be whoever rebuilt the centerlink installed the wrong studs.
Chris Filipietz
Rosamond CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 12:04
Subject: [Chrysler300] Front end hell!
> Still assembling my '62 300 front end. Need advice, please:
>
>
>
> The upper & lower ball joints are all new and I have followed the manual
> tightening references, though something seems funny. The torqued down
> nuts are quite lower than the cotter key holes, so that when I install
> the cotter keys the nut points are much lower than the key. Thus the
> key does not correspond to any of the nut points. Make sense? Here's
> what the manual tells me to tighten the ball joint studs to (where they
> meet the spindles):
>
> Upper 100
>
> Lower 135
>
>
>
> Center Link drops on top of the idler & pitman arms. Nuts are threaded
> below the arms onto the center link studs. I hit the nuts with my air
> gun & the studs spin in their sockets. How can I get the studs to bite
> in their holes so that I can tighten them?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Allyn
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 12:58:57 -0400
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fwd: over heating 392
you might also want to try using a radiator cap that less pounds of
pressure.
Sean.
>From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: "Chrysler Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:56:32 -0700
>
>The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
>1) radiator has new core
>2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
>fill hole)
>3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when the
>cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck thermostat(no
>thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be it).
>4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
>radiator engine cools down right away.
>
>seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
>would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
>
>Zak
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 11:28:14 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: "Rusty and Thelma Roe" <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300L Convert for sale
Just found a 65 300L convertible for sale on E-bay...located in the Eugene Oregon area ....vin # C453164614 e-bay # 1855333655 ......it's red with black top....my wife say's to let you guys know about it as I'm not allowed to make a bid....ha ha..........Rusty Roe 300C coupe
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 13:31:48 -0700
From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fwd: For Sale 68 Chrysler 300
>From: "Charles Heinitz" <ccheinitz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] For Sale 68 Chrysler 300
>Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:16:20 -0700
>
>
>
>
>This beautiful 300 is all original except for the paint job. A clear # 3 it
>won't take much to make it a # 2. meticulously cared for, always garaged
>this 300 can be had for only $9000.00, OBO. I have all receipts, and am
>only
>the second owner. To see the pictures go to your main browser and type in
>www.heinitz.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 17:22:16 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
Hi Sean;
Less is hotter. The boiling point of water is 212 degrees at #14+ #. That's
sea level air pressure. The Pressure Cap Jacks up the Pressure in the system
and therefore raises the boiling point of water. That's why you can't remove
a cap when the engine is hot, it'll instantly boil over. Your car may well
be running at about 240 degrees or more on a hot day with the A/C running.
Ray Jones
> From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 12:58:57 -0400
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Fwd: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>
>
> you might also want to try using a radiator cap that less pounds of
> pressure.
>
> Sean.
>
>
>
>
>> From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "Chrysler Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>> Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:56:32 -0700
>>
>> The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
>> 1) radiator has new core
>> 2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
>> fill hole)
>> 3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when the
>> cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck thermostat(no
>> thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be it).
>> 4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
>> radiator engine cools down right away.
>>
>> seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
>> would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
>>
>> Zak
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 21:37:47 -0700
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front end hell!
You should also realize that if the studs are spinning in the center link,
then the link is already junk.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris and TJ <flip7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Front end hell!
> Matt,
> Have you compared the new castle nut height with that of the old ones?
> Castle nuts and slotted nuts are available in different heights. In the
> process of doing my front end, I lost one of the slotted nuts for the
lower
> control arm shaft. After I bought a new one at my local NAPA. I
discovered
> it was shorter than the one on the other side and did as you described.
> Looked all over Albuquerque to no avail for one the same height. Finally
> had to go to the McMaster-Carr website,
>
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=slottednut&session=desc=Nu
> ts;slottednut, and order it. Couldn't beat the deal, $.35 charged to the
> credit card with free shipping and I got exactly what I needed!
>
> As far as the centerlink goes, make sure both the holes in the
idler/pitman
> arms and the studs on the centerlink are free of grease. I'd wipe off the
> stud shafts and holes with a degreaser. Also before you install the
> centerlink, thread the nuts on by hand and make sure they thread all the
way
> on freely. There may be paint or whatever on the threads causing the nut
to
> tighten prematurely. Once you have the centerlink in place, you may even
> want to give the back of it at the studs a slight tap with a plastic
mallet
> to help get it seated before you try to tighten. If the problem seems
more
> than just a slight slipping, I'd compare the studs on the new or rebuilt
> centerlink with the studs on the old one. You'll need to keep the stud
> taper in mind when you measure. Just a wild shot in the dark, but it
could
> be whoever rebuilt the centerlink installed the wrong studs.
>
> Chris Filipietz
> Rosamond CA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 12:04
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Front end hell!
>
>
> > Still assembling my '62 300 front end. Need advice, please:
> >
> >
> >
> > The upper & lower ball joints are all new and I have followed the manual
> > tightening references, though something seems funny. The torqued down
> > nuts are quite lower than the cotter key holes, so that when I install
> > the cotter keys the nut points are much lower than the key. Thus the
> > key does not correspond to any of the nut points. Make sense? Here's
> > what the manual tells me to tighten the ball joint studs to (where they
> > meet the spindles):
> >
> > Upper 100
> >
> > Lower 135
> >
> >
> >
> > Center Link drops on top of the idler & pitman arms. Nuts are threaded
> > below the arms onto the center link studs. I hit the nuts with my air
> > gun & the studs spin in their sockets. How can I get the studs to bite
> > in their holes so that I can tighten them?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Allyn
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 21:39:07 -0700
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: over heating 392
A radiator cap with less pressure will just let it overheat sooner. The more
pressure on water, the higher the boiling point.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: PaddyCaddy . <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 9:58 AM
Subject: Fwd: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
>
> you might also want to try using a radiator cap that less pounds of
> pressure.
>
> Sean.
>
>
>
>
> >From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
> >To: "Chrysler Club" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 392
> >Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:56:32 -0700
> >
> >The next mystery. When running the hemi it overheats.
> >1) radiator has new core
> >2) with radiator cap off, water seems to be circulating(looking in the
> >fill hole)
> >3) with cap on and run for a while(20 minutes), it overheats and when
the
> >cap is removed it spouts water out the fill hole like a stuck
thermostat(no
> >thermostat in the goose neck at this time so that can not be it).
> >4)when the petcock on the radiator is open and running water in the
> >radiator engine cools down right away.
> >
> >seem to me I'm down to the cap or fan clutch but I don't know if either
> >would cause these symptoms, any other good suggestions?
> >
> >Zak
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:46:34 +0300
From: "Danny Hagen" <dhagen@xxxxxx>
Subject: 300D rims
Hi i know this is a little mission impossible but i´m in a need of 4 rims 6,5 x14 for my D or something close to them ,so please go out to your garages and look they look better on a D that have not been on the road since 1965 going thru a total facelift .so help the old beauty out on the roads after almost 40 years. thanks for your time ,Danny
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:24:22 +0200
From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Camshaft needed
Dear 300 friends,
Does anyone of you have any experience of mounting an spin on oil filter
adapter for 392 from PAW. I have received a kit this week but have not
started the work yet. Don't want to make any mistake so any comments are
appreciated. I also need to change my camshaft and need one with the
original specifikation for 300C, DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE FOR SALE, Any leads?
Thanks,
Matts Wignell
Sweden
300C
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