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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Supplier of Brake Drums
From: "Pweihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Brake Adj.
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 1960 300 F
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Brake Adj.
From: JamesPFaber@xxxxxxx
5. Brake system mechanical detailing
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Brake Adj
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:23:52 -0500
From: "Pweihl" <pweihl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Supplier of Brake Drums
Hi Fern,
In reference to your question where I got my new brake drums from, it was
Jacksons Oldtime Parts. Check their website http://www.oldtimeparts.com.
I first sent them an e-mail to check on availability and price, then
called them to place the order. Phone is 1-888-399-7278. I understand
they have increased their price since I ordered mine, I just made it under
the wire with $110 for each drum.
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:19:13 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Adj.
Denny,
What year Chrysler are you thinking about adjusting the brakes in?
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:10:59 +0000
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1960 300 F
Dear chrysler 300 club does anybody out there know of any 1960 300 fs for
sale for 20,000 dollars this is all i have to spend at the moment any help
in finding me a 60 f for 20,000 dollars even or less would be greatly
appreciated thank you tom.
_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:36:11 EDT
From: JamesPFaber@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Adj.
The way we used to adjust the two cylinder brakes was, put the car on the
rack with someone in the drives seat. The man adjusting would spin the
wheel
by hand and call for the brakes to be applied. The adjuster adjusted the
brakes tighter until he felt a drag on the wheel as he made it rotate.
Then
he would back off on the adjuster slightly. This requires the same
procedure
on both adjusters per wheel .
Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:55:59 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake system mechanical detailing
Group:
I would like to share a few handy tips concerning brake mechanicals. Some
of
these items are showing up in current factory fix bulletins from the OE
people and in professional tech group postings so I think it is timely to
make mention..
Brake friction surfaces must be free of contaminants; dirt, grease,
solvents, etc. The recommended procedure to clean is hot soapy water and
rinse. Aerosol brake cleaners alone are not recommended.
The materials in brake pads and shoes that are on the shelf today should
not
be of asbestos content. Without the availability of proper breathing
protection equipment, a thorough soap and water wash down of the brake
assembly prior to disassembly is the best way to keep brake dust of any
kind
out of the air.
I like to replace all the brake parts I take off to do a brake job with
new
on an old car that I intend to drive. It is very important that a very
careful inspection be made of the backing plate (drum brakes) or caliper
mounting surfaces. It is critically important that backing plates shoe
mounting surfaces must be very flat, smooth and in a plane. These surfaces
can be repaired (usually). Calipers are of many designs and there may not
be
a decision to fix or replace. The worn out caliper mounts I have
encountered, replacement was the only fix.
Even a small pit in a wheel cylinder (or master cylinder) bore will cause
a
leak. Any corrosion you can SEE will cause cylinder failure and ruin a
good
brake job. I have, therefore, given up trying to kit wheel cylinders and
especially master cylinders (even in our dry climate). Sleeves or new will
work; honing and honing and honing will not. With new, watch out for NOS
as
rubber may (will) need replacement even though cylinder has never been in
service.
ANY drum must be trued and resurfaced when new linings are installed. A
minimum amount of metal should be removed. With old drums, braking
surfaces
must be ground to smooth (but not remove) hot spots. Soap and hot water
and
a scrub brush should be used to clean drums or rotors after machining (not
aerosol cleaners).
ANY rotor needs truing and resurfacing with new pads. Most brake techs are
using small diameter low RPM sanding discs to put a swirl pattern on the
braking surfaces.
A lot of really bad stuff will collect in a caliper. In our neck of the
woods, we do not have a rust problem. We still think real hard about
caliper
overhaul at 60K and definately do the job at 90K +.
Brake pad/ shoe friction material will vary greatly. Cheap 'Auto Zone'
will
not get the job done. Premium lining material should be sourced. I know it
can be custom installed on old shoes because I have had it done and it
does
make a big difference and is not costly. Shoes need to fit the drum. Watch
out for below max diameter drums and oversized shoes to fit oversize
drums.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:10:02 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Adj
Just a few comments on brake adjustments and related. Most of the dual
front wheel cylinder Chryslers adjust in a similar manner. The fronts
need to have the cam rotated in the direction that the wheel is rotating
while going forward, just until they rub then back off slightly. In the
rear, the front shoe adjusts the same way as the front wheel, in the rear
shoe in the rear brake, the cam is turned in the direction the wheel is
going while the car is backing up. This is from the '60 and '61 manual,
and I think is correct for the '62 also. I have done mine for years this
way, and I have never seen the need to have anyone in the driver's seat to
assist with the process.
Also, I have to take exception with the use of soap and water for cleaning
brake parts as being superior to using spray solvents designed
specifically for the purpose of cleaning brake parts. I just don't
believe soap and water to be a more effective cleaner than the purpose
made solvents. If you are concerned about brake dust (and you should be)
wear a dust mask and don't blow them off with compressed air.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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