Re: {Chrysler 300} Fwd: Brake overhaul kits

The disk brake upgrade on an F that keeps the 14" wheels depends upon Volare rotors and suffers from deep pedal travel regardless of the master cylinder used. The result is an under-braked car with a lousy pedal but less fade.

I am in the process of restoring a set of 1960 New Yorker front brakes that I hope to have on the car before mid summer.

-----Original Message-----
From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2025 3:15pm
To: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Club International Chrysler" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Fwd: Brake overhaul kits

1) take a picture , often cars have mixed wrong parts ,” 3 platform shoes “ differences etc , which way open spring hooks face .And where hooked

One aftermarket vendor made a shoe with both variations of shoe on one shoe really mixed me up . None will have original stuff at this point, may not be right

2) there is an excellent service memo from chrysler on all the problems, i think dated 1960 or 61 . I am sure our class guy Mr Merritt knows where . read that follow it .

3) L and R parts are “ handed” can vary! I have encountered two cars with that all mixed up . Even wheel cylinders ( bleeder comes out on bottom , obvious ( to some) that is all wrong) 57 into late 58 parts are all changed later , all by 59 up

4) 58 can be tricky , i think 300D got the good stuff before regular production published date .but late in year If you look up 58 ball joints in moog catalog you get a star and footnote.

Add in oversize self threading thread ( replacement) or for new unthreaded control arms plus two basic size variants there are 4 numbers All the front end and brake parts changed even backing plates from / 57-58 design — which was pretty fragile compared to the later . Really beefed it up .

5) crucial and common the flat spring like thing ( not a spring it is the shoe spring anchor, about 4” long )between the two metal plates goes behind the adj cam , away from shoe not in front of it ! this is no where shown in FSM . It moves with shoe adj to keep spring tight . Ive had two cars with that wrong from a brake shop “ all new parts” etc

6) on our tech site there is how to press on and weld a larger nut to reclaim backing plates with stripped adjuster . better than new!

7) they most likely wont work right at first , stay calm . drive 500 or so and will need adjustment ( 150 miles) a lot till “ bedded in “; if you pull brake drum over “issues “ and see that shoes have a only a small contact patch worn, that is because curve of shoe does not match drum . Brakes act up like crazy untill in total contact . Turning drums (over what? scratches ? ) that do not matter , makes them too big,

then you change that painful wait for good brakes from 500 miles to 1500+ yes can “ grind shoes”—- I never could find that guy or his machine

But common in 60’s 70’s brake shop

These ARE tricky to get right , but I love design once calmed down , why leaving them alone is a great idea if half of lining is left . redoing with all new stuff typically made them worse , by a lot, for me

Can get very frustrating, but looking back — if in right , way better than disc upgrade imho . Big IF there …

On Mar 26, 2025, at 12:16 PM, 'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Just to add to Nick’s list, I have used Andy Bernbaum (oldMoparts.com) for springs. RockAuto is my go-to for most everything. But Amazon is also a good source, with free shipping and faster delivery. You just need to know the correct aftermarket part number for what you are looking for.

The attachment shows the correct tool, called a Tapered Axle Puller, for removing the rear drums. Or you can purchase the Les Fairbanks puller, which a lot of folks like. I believe there is a link on the club’s website.

Ron

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Nick Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2025 11:19 AM
To: Jay Williamson <letterpressman@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Club International Chrysler <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Fwd: Brake overhaul kits

Jay,

I just did the brakes on my 1960 Imperial, which is pretty much the same as the 300F. I got the shoes, hoses and wheel cylinders from Rock Auto. I used Raybestos for the wheel cylinders and shoes. A friend used Centric wheel cylinders and had a lot of problems with them. The seals and bearings shouldn't be a problem.

Some of the hardware can be tricky but if your springs are good, reuse them. Make sure your brake supports are good and that the adjusters work. They can get stuck and then people round off the adjuster hex. They should be really stiff, but no so stiff that you can't turn them mounted on the car.

If you haven't pulled your rear drums yet, make sure you get a proper puller.

Nick

On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 5:23 AM 'Jay Williamson' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: Jay Williamson <letterpressman@xxxxxx>
Date: March 26, 2025 at 7:38:59 AM EDT
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Brake overhaul kits

Hello,

Here is another question as I work on the major systems for my 300 F. It looks like I will need to replace brake parts on my 300 F. I’ve been looking through the usual suspect list and haven’t been able to find anyone that carries all the parts for a 1960 300. I did find the attached kit from Kanters, but they really aren’t on the clubs trusted list. Does anyone know about these kits or have a reliable source where I can purchase a kit? I’ll need shoes, springs, hoses and wheel cylinders.

Thanks!

1960-1961 Chrysler 300, 1960-1961 Chrysler Imperial, 1960-1961 Chrysler New Yorker and others - Master Brake Overhaul Kit - BOKMWCHR601 - Kanter Auto

kanter.com

Sent from my iPad

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