and look at items 17,18,19,20,21.
the August meet in Buffalo.
1) take a picture , often cars have mixed wrong
parts ,” 3 platform shoes “ differences etc , which way open
spring hooks face .And where hooked
One aftermarket vendor made a shoe with both
variations of shoe on one shoe really mixed me up . None will
have original stuff at this point, may not be right
2) there is an excellent service memo from chrysler
on all the problems, i think dated 1960 or 61 . I am sure our
class guy Mr Merritt knows where . read that follow it .
3) L and R parts are “ handed” can vary! I have
encountered two cars with that all mixed up . Even wheel
cylinders ( bleeder comes out on bottom , obvious ( to some)
that is all wrong) 57 into late 58 parts are all changed later ,
all by 59 up
4) 58 can be tricky , i think 300D got the good
stuff before regular production published date .but late in year
If you look up 58 ball joints in moog catalog you get a star
and footnote.
Add in oversize self threading thread (
replacement) or for new unthreaded control arms plus two basic
size variants there are 4 numbers All the front end and brake
parts changed even backing plates from / 57-58 design —
which was pretty fragile compared to the later . Really beefed
it up .
5) crucial and common the flat spring like thing (
not a spring it is the shoe spring anchor, about 4” long
)between the two metal plates goes behind the adj cam , away
from shoe not in front of it ! this is no where shown in FSM .
It moves with shoe adj to keep spring tight . Ive had two cars
with that wrong from a brake shop “ all new parts” etc
6) on our tech site there is how to press on and
weld a larger nut to reclaim backing plates with stripped
adjuster . better than new!
7) they most likely wont work right at first ,
stay calm . drive 500 or so and will need adjustment ( 150
miles) a lot till “ bedded in “; if you pull brake drum over
“issues “ and see that shoes have a only a small contact patch
worn, that is because curve of shoe does not match drum .
Brakes act up like crazy untill in total contact . Turning
drums (over what? scratches ? ) that do not matter , makes them
too big,
then you change that painful wait for good brakes
from 500 miles to 1500+ yes can “ grind shoes”—- I never could
find that guy or his machine
But common in 60’s 70’s brake shop
These ARE tricky to get right , but I love design
once calmed down , why leaving them alone is a great idea if
half of lining is left . redoing with all new stuff typically
made them worse , by a lot, for me
Can get very frustrating, but looking back — if in
right , way better than disc upgrade imho . Big IF there …
Just
to add to Nick’s list, I have used Andy Bernbaum
(oldMoparts.com) for springs. RockAuto is my go-to for
most everything. But Amazon is also a good source, with
free shipping and faster delivery. You just need to know
the correct aftermarket part number for what you are
looking for.
The attachment shows the correct tool, called a Tapered
Axle Puller, for removing the rear drums. Or you can
purchase the Les Fairbanks puller, which a lot of folks
like. I believe there is a link on the club’s website.
Ron
From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On
Behalf Of Nick Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2025 11:19 AM
To: Jay Williamson
<letterpressman@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Club International Chrysler
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Fwd: Brake overhaul
kits
I just did the brakes on my 1960
Imperial, which is pretty much the same as the 300F. I
got the shoes, hoses and wheel cylinders from Rock
Auto. I used Raybestos for the wheel cylinders and
shoes. A friend used Centric wheel cylinders and had a
lot of problems with them. The seals and bearings
shouldn't be a problem.
Some of the hardware can be tricky
but if your springs are good, reuse them. Make sure
your brake supports are good and that the adjusters
work. They can get stuck and then people round off the
adjuster hex. They should be really stiff, but no so
stiff that you can't turn them mounted on the car.
If you haven't pulled your rear
drums yet, make sure you get a proper puller.
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