Here Here! Right on. Great info!
From: 'John Lazenby' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 10:13:57 p.m.
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Drum removal
I was taught years ago by someone that I highly respect to "reverse" the castellated nut and keep it loose then use the puller. This process gives more total protection to the end of the threaded axle.
John Lazenby
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 06:39:51 PM PST, Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Make sure and keep the castellated nut at the end of the axle when you apply the hub puller. This will protect the threads and keep the drum from flying off when it breaks free from the spindle -- assuming it is tapered. I did this recently when removing the rear drums from my '48 DeSoto and the drum literally exploded off the spindle...quite the shock.
Kurt
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 5:00:13 PM UTC-6 rdg123 wrote:
Hi all,
Trying to remove rear drums on my 300F. The head on one of the adjusters is stripped and I can't be sure the shoe has been backed off. I tried a pair of vice grips but it still wouldn't move. Should I continue with the hub puller? I don't want to bend anything in there?
Rick Gould
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