the force to move the drum is thousands of pounds to break loose but then it is free, essentially , as shoes are not touching or lightly touching go ahead . The “love tap “ with a 5 lb hammer after getting tension on it is critical by adapters you mean shoe cam adjustments ?see Mr Meritt’s site , i wrote up a way to press on and weld a large nut to remains of stripped adjuster to save and free those parts . have to be careful or weld current destroys ability to turn it .. see write up . anyone who puts vise grips on that should be relegated to Fords ( laugh) On Jan 2, 2025, at 10:16 PM, rdr_inc@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Here Here! Right on. Great info!
Rick Dutkiewicz
From: 'John Lazenby' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 10:13:57 p.m.
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Drum removal
I was taught years ago by someone that I highly respect to "reverse" the castellated nut and keep it loose then use the puller. This process gives more total protection to the end of the threaded axle.
John Lazenby
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 06:39:51 PM PST, Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Make sure and keep the castellated nut at the end of the axle when you apply the hub puller. This will protect the threads and keep the drum from flying off when it breaks free from the spindle -- assuming it is tapered. I did this recently when removing the rear drums from my '48 DeSoto and the drum literally exploded off the spindle...quite the shock.
Kurt
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 5:00:13 PM UTC-6 rdg123 wrote:
Hi all,
Trying to remove rear drums on my 300F. The head on one of the adjusters is stripped and I can't be sure the shoe has been backed off. I tried a pair of vice grips but it still wouldn't move. Should I continue with the hub puller? I don't want to bend anything in there? Rick Gould
.
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