Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Insufficient conductor is not unique to Mother Mopar. In the midyear Corvette world we have what is called "red wire syndrome" in which the entire car feed for everything excerpting the horn runs through a bulkhead connector that fails leaving a completely dead automobile. Except of course the horn which at least tells you what problem you have.

The C body Imperial guys discuss this too and they say to strap a heavy wire from the alternator stud to the battery via starter relay. I did this on my 68 New Yorker. That car, by the way has its HVAC and exterior lighting circuit bypassed from the fuse block to replace burned out lugs and surrounding plastic - woefully undersized and melted factory conductors.

Seems when Chrysler went to the mandated side marker lamps for 68 it figured the existing wiring could handle it.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Van der veen" <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2024 5:54pm
To: "Don Cole" <mr300k@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Chrysler list server" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Thanks to everyone for the invaluable information. It will help alot. I've booked the car in to have a fix done on the alternator wiring at the bulkhead connector. Apparently our holden cars here had a similar set up that is equally trouble some. Cheers all and thanks again
Mike in Australia

On Tue, Nov 19, 2024, 4:38 AM Don Cole <mr300k@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Mike,

This happened on my Ram-K after ours of searching I found that the wire coming from the alternator to the AMP meter was loose. Very simple and easy.

Hope that solves your problem.

Don Cole

On Sunday, November 17, 2024, 11:16:54 PM EST, Michael Van der veen <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi all,
I've been test driving the silver turquoise 300k around and trying to iron out some running issues. So after driving around for a couple of hrs it cut out and I couldn't start it via the key. I know there can be issues with the bulkhead connector, there is no power to the ignition switch and no console light comes on when you open the door. No fuses are blown and you can start the car by bridging the terminals on the starter relay and connecting the coil to the battery. When you do this the car will run and drive and lights in the console work when you open the door. The ignition switch still won't work. The car has 42k miles on it and alot of electrical parts have been replaced. Does anyone have any ideas besides the bulkhead connector?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

Cheers,

Mike approaching summer heat, in Australia

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CAPtwmMGxjOcin1kNLF7k0Gax%2BbfZTWkPMrV1n-Hk-3E8SBm4GA%40mail.gmail.com.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CAPtwmMGr4ReMia_%3DAMBqM92VfFWAeX5KfNf_sRpRLJKPMTYEQA%40mail.gmail.com.