RE: {Chrysler 300} front window frames CDE , ongoing saga

Can I assume you gentlemen have watched these Chrysler Corp tech films on this subject? The three films below seem to deal with the design and engineering fiasco's of the 57 cars as to windows, doors and body sealing. There's some entertainment here....

-----Original Message-----
From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2024 9:28am
To: "chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} front window frames CDE , ongoing saga

Thanks to Henry S down under , he measured all this carefully after his long trip with this , and he measured only 3 mm clear longwise to run on one window ,7mm other side,( in 670 mm) but that looser window was also 3 mm smaller , ? a vagary of how the chrome was installed to glass apparently
He also noticed tightening of clearance as window went up ,just like mine . but 3 mm is a tiny gap . I don’t have any gap

However the plot thickens quite a bit .

Mine had been 100% disassembled for chrome , and some evidence of problems or rework where vent run channel first leaves the chrome / stainless upper part , going down into door as unfinished metal . It appears on my old ones , and this one too that they may crack right there . Mine had been carefully reassembled as factory , with rivets , heads flattened down even or close to it in run channel . Factory may have had “ flathead top “ rivets in conical holes .
But on close examination , which we did not realize before , rebuilder had put new U channel and its flocking INSiDE the old one and riveted all together apparently trying to beef up the place it cracks . Why might it crack ? apparently fatigue failure , window tight running up and down 1000 times? His thinking was correct but rule of unintended consequences….!
Or Road vibration in door ?

It was so well done with rivets etc and perfect outer edge we did not realize an extra thickness of metal was in there , where our 3mm went !
And it looks almost impossible to get the old factory run channel out of outer metal U , spot welded folded etc , You can see two factury layers if you look at edge
Unsure how they did this , flocking glued into finished piece at very end ? unlike new one , original factory flocking can be pulled right out and is very thin / loose on glass , and possibly no flockibg at bottom .
So now all apart , plan is similar to Ron , reline old one . Get rid on inner added U. Think about weak spot , probably ok if not flexing . I did buy 5’ of new metal U ( expensive , on amazon -90$) for “ 50’s GM cars” , it has rub strip at bottom ( not flocking) thin line of flocking at top near shiny edges . 1/2”wide TBD . Used on many other brands too
Also purchased teflon fabric tape and HMW PE rub strip for bottom ,velcro strip Ron mentioned for sides ( worked for him ) even if on bottom , put aside till next week when stuff comes .
Takeaway ,1) don’t line bottom
if U with flock , but might just squeak by if thin , 2 ) looks like not enough room longwise to add another complete metal U into an empty factory one , ( despite positive aspects of that and the way they are made to do exactly that )
3 ) be sure when reassembling glass on chrome to get glass 100% in to bottom of chrome U ,—- window over all length is critical

There are NO adjustments for length except the back channel , and even fully back window will start to hit body slot opening ( and be in wrong place , complicating fit of all of this )

Fit to window post is a hinge issue .

I am expecting a win next week , hope all this helps anybody with this issue of binding power window .

At least we understand issue now. And narrowing window lip is a bad idea due to factory smooth surface finish / chrome and not needed if vent side of run is restored correctly .

thanks for help , still learning !
John

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