{Chrysler 300} front window frames CDE , ongoing saga

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks to Henry S down under , he measured all this carefully after his long trip with this , and he measured only 3 mm clear longwise to run on one window ,7mm other side,( in 670 mm)  but that looser window was also 3 mm smaller , ? a vagary of how the chrome was installed to glass apparently  
He also noticed tightening of clearance as window went up ,just like mine .  but 3 mm is a tiny gap . I don’t  have any gap 

However the plot thickens quite a bit .

 Mine had been 100% disassembled for chrome , and some evidence of problems or rework  where vent run channel first leaves the chrome / stainless upper part , going down into door as unfinished metal . It appears on my old ones , and this  one too that they may crack right there . Mine had been carefully reassembled as factory , with rivets , heads flattened down even or close to it in run channel . Factory may have had “ flathead top “ rivets in conical holes . 
But on close examination , which we did not realize before , rebuilder had put new U channel and its flocking INSiDE the old one and riveted all together apparently trying to beef up the place it cracks . Why might it crack ? apparently fatigue failure , window tight running up and down 1000 times? His thinking was correct but rule of unintended consequences….! 
Or Road vibration  in door ? 

It was so well done with rivets etc and perfect outer edge we did not realize an extra thickness of metal was in there , where our 3mm went ! 
And it looks almost impossible to get the old factory run channel out of outer metal U , spot welded folded etc , You can see two factury layers  if you look at edge 
Unsure how they did this , flocking glued into finished piece at very end ? unlike new one , original factory flocking  can be pulled right out and is very thin / loose on glass , and possibly no flockibg at bottom . 
So now all apart , plan is similar to Ron , reline old one . Get rid on inner added U. Think about weak spot , probably ok if not flexing .   I did buy 5’ of new metal U ( expensive , on amazon -90$) for “ 50’s GM cars”  , it has rub strip at bottom ( not flocking) thin line of flocking at top near shiny edges  . 1/2”wide  TBD . Used on many other brands too 
Also purchased teflon fabric tape and  HMW PE rub  strip for bottom ,velcro strip Ron mentioned for sides ( worked for him ) even if on bottom  , put aside till next week when stuff comes . 
Takeaway ,1)  don’t line bottom
if U with flock , but might just squeak by if thin , 2 ) looks like not enough room longwise to add another complete metal U into an empty factory one , ( despite positive aspects of that and the way they  are made to do exactly that ) 
3 ) be sure when reassembling glass on chrome to get glass 100% in to bottom of chrome U ,—-  window over all length is critical 


There are NO adjustments for length except the back channel , and even fully  back window will start to hit body slot opening ( and be in wrong place , complicating fit of all of this ) 

Fit to window post is a hinge issue . 

I am expecting a win next week , hope all this helps anybody with this issue of binding power window . 

At least we understand issue now. And narrowing window lip is a bad idea due to factory smooth surface finish / chrome and not needed if vent side of run is  restored correctly .  

thanks for help , still learning ! 
John 



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