RE: [Chrysler300] Pros and cons of silicon brake fluid

[paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

NOT necessarily,  having seen the way a lot of Continental drivers
abuse their brakes, the first thought that popped into my mind was
'If we every move here, it would be a great business to get into, doing
brake jobs' cause they drive hard and brake hard.

On a more practical note,  I seem to recall that DOT 4 is excellent in 
disk systems when they are being streniously exersized alot, like in 
racing applications.
I thought DOT3 was ok for normal american driving styles
(unless you lived in LA or Chicago or NY)  :-)


Those more versed in real usages are certianly free to illuminate my
feeble recollections

--
Paul Holmgren
2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hoosier Corps #L6
CPUs run on smoke. I know thisbecause when the smoke comes out,it stops working. 
  -------------- Original message from <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>: --------------


> Yikes,
> 
> Now I must ask my question regarding my disc brake conversion on my G.
> 
>  
> 
> Does this mean I need to change to Dot 4 instead of the Dot 3 that was in my 
> master cylinder with front disc brakes?
> 
>  
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf 
> Of Warren Anderson
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 7:22 PM
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Narve Nordanger
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Pros and cons of silicon brake fluid
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Really nice post. 
> 
> Adding only, the boiling point of DOT 4 is higher than DOT 3 which is what drum 
> brake cars use. DOT 4 I consider to be necessary for European, high performance 
> disc brake applications. I really doubt any normal use old Chrysler with drum 
> brakes will ever boil DOT 3. Moisture migration is greater with DOT 4 than with 
> DOT 3. 
> 
> The DOT 3 & 4 synthetic fluids I have seen but have no in use information on. As 
> with so many things, the possible non compatibility of old rubber compounds and 
> this stuff would concern me. The published boiling point is once again so high I 
> really wonder why old drum brake cars would need it. 
> 
> If you accidently put DOT 4 fluid intended for your BMW in your 300 with DOT 3 
> in it, that is not a problem. DOT 3 or 4 in a DOT 5 system and there is no idea 
> what that mess might be. 
> 
> Maybe there is a member that has seen something about DOT 5.1 in old car 
> applications. That stuff is very high boiling point with lower viscosity, which 
> I find interesting, and has some moisture migration advantages also. It is not 
> silicone; not related to DOT 5 at all. 
> 
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
> 
> Having almost 20 years experience with using silicon fluid on my C-300 and a
> few Type 1 VW products, some lessons learned can be identified.
> 
> Compared to DOT 3 and 4 the silicon brakes do not seize up, especially disc
> brakes which otherwise frequently get stuck (VW discs which needed freeing
> up every 3 months of standstill with mineral, performed faultlessly for the
> next 10 years with silicon), there is less risk of rust in the cylinders as
> it is not hydroscopic and you will have less fading by hot brake fluid
> (higher boiling point). It does neither attack your paint.
> 
> The downsides are sticking brake light switches (every 12 months on the VWs,
> also frequently on the C-300) rendering the switch either permanently on or
> off, it is actually compressible as John L has recognized (I once bottomed
> the pedal on one VW during panic braking, and there was no air in the
> system), and if you spill any it is really hard to later repaint the spot
> without silicon fish eyes. When introduced, the silicon fluid also gained a
> reputation for destroying old rubber gaskets/cups, so everything renewed is
> recommended. Blending silicon (DOT 5) with mineral fluid creates "porridge",
> so a total clean-out (spirit) is essential before changing back and forth.
> As I have recently learned, the engine runs very poorly (not at all) if you
> get DOT 5 into the intake.
> 
> Bottom line: Unless you are racing, silicon brake fluid is beneficial for
> cars with external brake light switch as Tony Rinaldi recommends. For cars
> with pressurized brake switches, stick to mineral and change it every 2-3
> years to avoid sticking and rust.
> 
> Narve Nordanger
> 
> (out to fix my C-300 brakes this week-end)
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
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> 

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