RE: [Chrysler300] Still an stubborn amateur after all this years

["Narve Nordanger" <narve.n@xxxxxxx>]

Paul,

sorry for being late with the answer as I haven't attended the computer for
a few days. 

 

Being an amateur I of cause have both poured fresh gas and starting fluid
into the carbs numerous times (with no apparent result). Actually believe
that the Norwegian gas is less volatile than the US variety, as it is less
mix of bio-additives here and while we often have to change the gas from
fresh (meaning old cars) US-imports, that is rarely needed with the standard
stuff in cars already here. Also, paying in excess of $9/US gallon as we do
now in Norway one should possibly expect some level of lasting quality?

 

Narve Nordanger

C-300 in Norway

 

From: paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: 15. mai 2008 01:33
To: Narve Nordanger; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Still an stubborn amateur after all this years

 

Is there a chance that your gas there is a similar formula to
what we get in the USA??
if so at 8 months old, or more, old less volitele gas plus the
addition of a contaminant (the sillycone)  would sure interfere
with starting.  Have you tried dribbling just a little fresh gas down
your primary carburator??  

--
Paul Holmgren 
2 57 300-C's in Indy 
Hoosier Corps #L6 
CPUs run on smoke. I know this 
because when the smoke comes out, 
it stops working.

 

-------------- Original message from "Narve Nordanger" <narve.n@xxxxxxx>:
-------------- 


> Hello group, 
> 
> Those of you with excellent memory might recall my frustration from last 
> year when I had problems starting my C-300 at all, asking whether anyone
had 
> any advice. Despite some good advice, I eventually became so p**sed by the

> non-starting that I did not touch the car for a period of 8 months. But 
> recently I've spent the better part of an entire week-end to sort out all 
> the bugs, and some of the findings might be applicable to other amateurs
as 
> well: 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have now perfected my "How to start a worn 6V Hemi with 12V 
> battery"-routine to my own full satisfaction, hooking a 12V diesel battery

> directly to the starter main, and a 6V to all other items including the 
> starter solenoid. Prolonged cranking is now possible without risk of cable

> melt-down, and no sparks are flying. 
> 
> . Then patient scraping of 4 layers of paint from the harmonic 
> balancer to my astonishment revealed some almost invisible timing marks, 
> after I had used a wooden stick in No 1 cylinder to determine the 
> approximately TDC. 
> 
> . Hooking up the timing-light reveled that the vacuum rubber-hose 
> did hold the distributor at almost dead correct position 10 degrees BTDC, 
> the scraping had been wasted time. 
> 
> . Then I carefully checked all the ignition cables, and discovered 
> that I had indeed switched No 6 and 8 at the distributor. Fixed that, the 
> car still did not want to start. But it might explain the car's 
> unwillingness to accelerate last year. 
> 
> . Next on my list was testing the compression. Of course the values 
> varied a lot indicating an overhaul in the future, but most of the
cylinders 
> should have more than enough compression to ignite. 
> 
> . I then spent a few hours rebuilding the distributor back to 
> points, in case the Petronix installed last year had some sort of fault,
and 
> carefully setting the breaker points. Luckily I had a spare distributor to

> copy the set-up from. You guessed it, the car would not start. The smell
of 
> raw gasoline at the rear did although indicate that the ignition was the 
> problem. 
> 
> . Then out of nothing but occasional cranking, on the third day the 
> engine started to cough, and after heavy manipulating of the gas pedal 
> actually came to life without me having done anything further. 
> 
> . I immediately made ready for a test drive and after having removed 
> the second battery put the car in reverse - and discovered that the brakes

> had disappeared within the last 8 months. Luckily the hand brake was 
> overhauled last year. A quick check at the master cylinder indicated total

> loss of fluid, but no spots was visible below any wheels and I turned the 
> attention to the master cylinder. As it had neither any visible leaks, I 
> suspected the fluid had been sucked into the vacuum chamber, and four
screws 
> later found a good lot of fluid sloshing around inside the clock. 
> 
> . My expensively purchased factory overhauled master cylinder from 
> eBay had developed a substantial internal leak, injecting silicon brake 
> fluid into the vacuum chamber - and from that most likely further into the

> engine. Apparently the master cylinder had been subjected to heavy doses
of 
> acid to clear old rust, this might be the cause of failure as the internal

> rubber looked good. 
> 
> . One hour later I had the old master cylinder I did overhaul back 
> in 1986 ready installed, and was out for a test run. 
> 
> 
> 
> So, all you experts out there, am I right to believe that the silicon
fluid 
> from the brakes sucked into the intake has acted as an effective 
> anti-combustion ingredient and precluding the start until the master 
> cylinder actually was empty? And are leaks like this a general problem on 
> the Kelsey-Hayes Master Cylinders? 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Narve Nordanger 
> 
> C-300 in Norway since 85 
> 
> With a brake overhaul sailing up, it will be my 3rd - this time with 
> standard brake fluid, as I have had enough of replacing brake light
contacts 
> that has been plugged by the silicon. Hopefully in less than 8 months.. 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------ 
> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to: 
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> 
> For list server instructions, go to 
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm 
> 
> For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups
Links 
> 
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/