Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical

[Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxx>]

As uauall, Godo advise.
He said he didn't have an ohm meter, so I didn't dwell on those tests.
If you have more votage at the post then at the cable clamp (vise versa for
ground cable), then there's a votage drop across the connection.
Ray

> From: Gary Nelson <gary@xxxx>
> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:48:06 -0700
> To: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxx>, gearhead.girl@xxxx,
> chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical
> 
> Matt
> A very simple battery test is to remove positive cable and put a full
> charge,( battery charger) then with your electrical tester read voltage. A
> fully charged battery will read approximately 12.4 or more volts. Just
> dealt with a battery problem a few days ago and after 8 hour charge only
> had 11 volts. That meant on cell was dead as each cell has 1.5 volt storage
> value.
> As far as ground or connection testing an inexpensive electric meter with
> an ohm selector makes for quick tests without guessing and taking things
> apart. For example the battery problem I mentioned above the starter was
> dragging and not able to start the car. The first thing I wanted to know if
> I had a connection or ground problem. With the two leads and the meter set
> for ohms, touch the two ends to each other. That reading will be the same
> if you have a good connection at the point you are testing. For example I
> touched one lead from the meter to the each battery cable end and the other
> in the center of battery post. for a ground test touch one lead to center
> negative post and the other any where to bare metal on engine. This will
> confirm if you have a good ground through the engine, the negative battery
> cable and to the battery post. With this method you can test all your
> connections in minutes.
> I hope I did not leave you confused. If you take a little time to learn ohm
> testing you will find it to be an invaluable tool the rest of the days you
> work on old cars.
> 
> Gary, The Parts Doc
> 
> 
> 
> At 11:59 AM 9/18/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
>> Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on, then
>> have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're doing is
>> load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you have a
>> battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in the
>> car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it will
>> demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
>> You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what the
>> voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked the
>> cable resistance.
>> Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
>> cable. Now you've checked the connections.
>> Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor connection
>> there (at the block) will stop it all.
>> Good luck, Ray Jones
>> 
>>> From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxx>
>>> Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxx>
>>> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
>>> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
>>> 
>>> '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
>>> for the weak battery sounds?
>>> 
>>> I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
>>> mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
>>> 
>>> What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Matt Allyn
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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