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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Legendary's Hurst seats
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
2. Electrical
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Electrical
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. 413 Frost plugs
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Electrical
From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. "Thrust Bearing" on 1962 383 Sports 300 engine.
From: "gadickel" <mythmythos@xxxxxxx>
7. Blackie
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
8. Re: 413 Frost plugs
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Electrical
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Electrical
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:28:01 EDT
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Legendary's Hurst seats
Hello all, has anyone seen or purchased the Hurst front seat upholstery from
Legendary Auto interiors? What is the quality like? I saw a little picture
of the front seats in their new catalog, at Carlisle. However, they did not
have an actual display seat to show, like they do for other Mopars. They
said if I would order a set at that show, they'd give the show discount of
$100 off. (Normally $900, show special $800, if I remember right) I was too
hesitant to buy something that I couldn't see in person, first. I wanted to
ask them more questions, but got sidetracked, easy to do at Carlisle. Does
anyone know if they do the rear seat, and the "buddy seat"/armrest as well?
Thanks in advance, John Pflugfelder
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electrical
'62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
for the weak battery sounds?
I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 11:59:12 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on, then
have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're doing is
load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you have a
battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in the
car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it will
demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what the
voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked the
cable resistance.
Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
cable. Now you've checked the connections.
Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor connection
there (at the block) will stop it all.
Good luck, Ray Jones
> From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
> To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
>
> '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
> for the weak battery sounds?
>
> I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
> mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
>
> What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Allyn
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:52:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 413 Frost plugs
In doing an inspection of my motor prior to doing a
rebuild it appears the frost plugs in the block are
brass. Is this common for this era of engine? Are ther
brass replacements available if the machine shop
removes them for cleaning?
Pau Martin
300F
Vancouver, BC
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:56:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Spiers <spiers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
Some of the auto parts chains (Autozone, for instance) do an in-car battery/charging system check for free. They run a load-test on each. If, however, your charging system is not up to snuff, they likely will not be able to tell you whether the alternator or the voltage regulator is the culprit. They would like to sell you both items.
Sears will do the above, plus test how many amps the starter is drawing, but they will 'charge' you for the service.
John Spiers
Jennifer Allyn wrote:'62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
for the weak battery sounds?
I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 02:09:29 -0000
From: "gadickel" <mythmythos@xxxxxxx>
Subject: "Thrust Bearing" on 1962 383 Sports 300 engine.
The garageman who is rebuilding my 383 was putting everything back
together when he found he couldn't get what he thought to be the rear
main bearing to go into place. Of the bearings, all are alike except
one which has a chamfer or edge - this he assumed to be the rear main
and that it was designed to prevent back and forth thrusting of the
crankshaft. A friend who knows something of motor rebuilding told me
that the one with the chamfer or edge is in fact the rear main on
most Chevy engines but that on Chrysler it goes on the third or forth
bearing. This seems right as a regular bearing from the package
slides right on the rear main. These are all cut to -.020 to make up
with the crank which has been likewise cut.
The opinion of a few of you Chrysler Sages out there would be most
appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:15:26 EDT
From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: Blackie
Members:
We entered Blackie again in a Classic Car Show this past weekend. It was
entered in the 7th Annual Saugus Speedway Oldies and Goodies Car Show. We
entered it in two classes: Mopar and Classic.
We are proud to inform you we took 1st place in the Mopar class and 2nd place
in the Classic class. In Classic we came 2nd to a 1961 T-Bird. We don't
know how that happened! (chuckle) ... maybe it was because we had already
taken 1st place in Mopar - we donno. Still very happy ... that's all to
report this week.
Best regards,
Ted and Louise Larangeira
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:32:22 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 413 Frost plugs
The brass plugs are Marine plugs, sold in the parts houses along with the
usuall steel ones. Your choice, but the brass ones will last much longer as
they won't rust.
Ray Jones
> From: Paul Martin <paul_martin78ca@xxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:52:30 -0400 (EDT)
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] 413 Frost plugs
>
> In doing an inspection of my motor prior to doing a
> rebuild it appears the frost plugs in the block are
> brass. Is this common for this era of engine? Are ther
> brass replacements available if the machine shop
> removes them for cleaning?
>
> Pau Martin
> 300F
> Vancouver, BC
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:48:06 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
Matt
A very simple battery test is to remove positive cable and put a full
charge,( battery charger) then with your electrical tester read voltage. A
fully charged battery will read approximately 12.4 or more volts. Just
dealt with a battery problem a few days ago and after 8 hour charge only
had 11 volts. That meant on cell was dead as each cell has 1.5 volt storage
value.
As far as ground or connection testing an inexpensive electric meter with
an ohm selector makes for quick tests without guessing and taking things
apart. For example the battery problem I mentioned above the starter was
dragging and not able to start the car. The first thing I wanted to know if
I had a connection or ground problem. With the two leads and the meter set
for ohms, touch the two ends to each other. That reading will be the same
if you have a good connection at the point you are testing. For example I
touched one lead from the meter to the each battery cable end and the other
in the center of battery post. for a ground test touch one lead to center
negative post and the other any where to bare metal on engine. This will
confirm if you have a good ground through the engine, the negative battery
cable and to the battery post. With this method you can test all your
connections in minutes.
I hope I did not leave you confused. If you take a little time to learn ohm
testing you will find it to be an invaluable tool the rest of the days you
work on old cars.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 11:59 AM 9/18/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
>Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on, then
>have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're doing is
>load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you have a
>battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in the
>car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it will
>demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
>You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what the
>voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked the
>cable resistance.
>Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
>cable. Now you've checked the connections.
>Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor connection
>there (at the block) will stop it all.
>Good luck, Ray Jones
>
> > From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
> > To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
> >
> > '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
> > for the weak battery sounds?
> >
> > I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
> > mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
> >
> > What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Allyn
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:50:20 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
Matt
A very simple battery test is to remove positive cable and put a full
charge,( battery charger) then with your electrical tester read voltage. A
fully charged battery will read approximately 12.4 or more volts. Just
dealt with a battery problem a few days ago and after 8 hour charge only
had 11 volts. That meant on cell was dead as each cell has 1.5 volt storage
value.
As far as ground or connection testing an inexpensive electric meter with
an ohm selector makes for quick tests without guessing and taking things
apart. For example the battery problem I mentioned above the starter was
dragging and not able to start the car. The first thing I wanted to know if
I had a connection or ground problem. With the two leads and the meter set
for ohms, touch the two ends to each other. That reading will be the same
if you have a good connection at the point you are testing. For example I
touched one lead from the meter to the each battery cable end and the other
in the center of battery post. for a ground test touch one lead to center
negative post and the other any where to bare metal on engine. This will
confirm if you have a good ground through the engine, the negative battery
cable and to the battery post. With this method you can test all your
connections in minutes.
I hope I did not leave you confused. If you take a little time to learn ohm
testing you will find it to be an invaluable tool the rest of the days you
work on old cars.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 11:59 AM 9/18/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
>Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on, then
>have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're doing is
>load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you have a
>battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in the
>car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it will
>demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
>You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what the
>voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked the
>cable resistance.
>Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
>cable. Now you've checked the connections.
>Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor connection
>there (at the block) will stop it all.
>Good luck, Ray Jones
>
> > From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
> > To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
> >
> > '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
> > for the weak battery sounds?
> >
> > I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
> > mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
> >
> > What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Allyn
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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