Re: [Chrysler300] Electrical

[Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxx>]

Matt
A very simple battery test is to remove positive cable and put a full 
charge,( battery charger) then with your electrical tester read voltage. A 
fully charged battery will read approximately 12.4 or more volts. Just 
dealt with a battery problem a few days ago and after 8 hour charge only 
had 11 volts. That meant on cell was dead as each cell has 1.5 volt storage 
value.
As far as ground or connection testing an inexpensive electric meter with 
an ohm selector makes for quick tests without guessing and taking things 
apart. For example the battery problem I mentioned above the starter was 
dragging and not able to start the car. The first thing I wanted to know if 
I had a connection or ground problem. With the two leads and the meter set 
for ohms, touch the two ends to each other. That reading will be the same 
if you have a good connection at the point you are testing. For example I 
touched one lead from the meter to the each battery cable end and the other 
in the center of battery post. for a ground test touch one lead to center 
negative post and the other any where to bare metal on engine. This will 
confirm if you have a good ground through the engine, the negative battery 
cable and to the battery post. With this method you can test all your 
connections in minutes.
I hope I did not leave you confused. If you take a little time to learn ohm 
testing you will find it to be an invaluable tool the rest of the days you 
work on old cars.

Gary, The Parts Doc



At 11:59 AM 9/18/2002 -0500, Ray Jones wrote:
> Matt, for a quick check, measure the voltage as it is with nothing on, then
> have someone crank it, and watch the voltage readings. What you're doing is
> load testing the battery. If the meter drops to very low voltage, you have a
> battery thats low, OR a huge draw. The starter is the bigggest draw in the
> car, but shouldn't kill the battery. But if dragging ar suchlike, it will
> demand more current than the battery or cables can deliver.
> You can check voltage at the starter also before cranking and see what the
> voltage is and compare it to the battery reading. Now you've checked the
> cable resistance.
> Check the readings @ the post and then the cable end on each end of the
> cable. Now you've checked the connections.
> Last but not least, check @ the ground end of the cable. A poor connection
> there (at the block) will stop it all.
> Good luck, Ray Jones
>
> > From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxx>
> > Reply-To: <gearhead.girl@xxxx>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:21:17 -0700
> > To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Chrysler300] Electrical
> >
> > '62 413 motor straining to start! Does anyone know how I should test
> > for the weak battery sounds?
> >
> > I have a Sears meter that can check volts, dwell and RPM. Do I need a
> > mutimeter to properly test the battery and alternator?
> >
> > What procedure do I use to test the battery and alternator?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Allyn
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
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