Re: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal

[Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx>]

Hi Karl,

The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of the
motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The screen
is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big blocks
have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as you
have, no such problem.

What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual oil
pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew the
sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a LOT,
the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
clogged. 
It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
that usually go first. That means the motor will
probably require a total rebuild. 

For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get an
oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of the
10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on the
oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace the
oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
highest capacity and filters the smallest particles on
the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second and
that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
just don't know of any other place that sells the
kits. When you get the results back, if you have high
metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
some time, how much depends on how bad your engine is
now.

Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any more
questions regarding this.

300ly Russ Vaughan



--- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> screen from the side of 
> the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> right?
> 
> I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> after the motor warms up and 
> need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> looking at main bearings 
> and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> sits right on the lower 
> limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> when first started up, 
> rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> 
> It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> getting a bit 
> concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> made no difference. 
> Any hints or suggestions?
> 
> Karl
> 61 300G
> 
> 
> 
>
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