Re: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal

[moparted <moparted_70@xxxx>]

Want is wrong with 10w40 motor oil?

--- Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Karl,
> 
> The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of
> the
> motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The
> screen
> is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
> DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big
> blocks
> have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
> without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
> crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as
> you
> have, no such problem.
> 
> What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual
> oil
> pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew
> the
> sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
> readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
> thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
> pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
> it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a
> LOT,
> the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
> clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
> clogged. 
> It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
> that usually go first. That means the motor will
> probably require a total rebuild. 
> 
> For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get
> an
> oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
> number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of
> the
> 10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
> quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
> low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
> high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on
> the
> oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace
> the
> oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
> highest capacity and filters the smallest particles
> on
> the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second
> and
> that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
> just don't know of any other place that sells the
> kits. When you get the results back, if you have
> high
> metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
> this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
> some time, how much depends on how bad your engine
> is
> now.
> 
> Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any
> more
> questions regarding this.
> 
> 300ly Russ Vaughan
> 
> 
> 
> --- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxx> wrote:
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump
> and
> > screen from the side of 
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > right?
> > 
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > after the motor warms up and 
> > need to check the pump and screen before I
> consider
> > looking at main bearings 
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > sits right on the lower 
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > when first started up, 
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> > 
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am
> just
> > getting a bit 
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the
> oil
> > made no difference. 
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> > 
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>
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