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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. 57 NewYorker parts
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 300C Body mount bracing
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. help !!
From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: "elmer tuuri" <eltuuri@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
From: "Tim Tomlinson" <tomlin@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:44:54 -0400
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
I'm confused and hoping someone can help me out. I have a '64 300 Sport with a 383 and power brakes. I need a new brake master cylinder, so the local NAPA sells me one. NAPA part # 10-36706, it looks very similar to the existing one, but has an additional downward pointing outlet just under the regular horizontally pointing outlet. The second outlet is capped off with a plug, so I figure that the unit will still work fine. When I got the old master cylinder off I compared the two. The NAPA one has a casting number on the bottom of the unit of 2265634. My old one has a casting # of 2265633. Hmmmm. I then noticed that the receptacle depths for the pushrod in the back of the MC piston are different between the two MCs. The NAPA one is about .95" deep and my old one is 1.25" deep. I thought that maybe it's as simple as adjusting my pushrod shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much from the power booster unit. I looked in the factory service manual for adjustment info and here is where I got really confused. My power booster visually appears to be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm type, and the FSM clearly states that these are for Imperials only. (It also says to NOT adjust the pushrod)
Did 300 Sports come with the Bendix dual diaphragm unit? If so, does anybody know a NAPA part # for the proper MC to use with this booster unit? Or do I need to just adjust the pushrod in about .3"?
If the booster unit isn't the proper one for the car, I'd like to replace it with the proper one. Any thoughts on where these might be available, part numbers (NAPA or otherwise) to ask for, etc.
Any help from the group would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Terry Lynch
St. Petersburg, FL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 18:13:14 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57 NewYorker parts
In the proverbial eternal hunt for parts for my resto project I ended
up with some 57 New Yorker station wagon parts.
If anyone is interesting in what I have I do not need them so they are
available.
SO far from this box I have got some;
Spare Tire cover bright work (2 cast pieces are NICE, the one stamped
piece could stand a re-plate for a complete resto)
Lift gate latch handle (NO pits, but a few scratches, otherwise NICE)
Lift Gate latches (?) (stops (?), screws, AND connecting wires)
Lift Gate latch strikers (?) (WITH 4 screws and a spring, again NICE)
some kind of chain with rubber hose covering it (hose is original but
broken in places, may have been fabric covered, otherwise appears complete,
probably goes with the next item.)
Seat back bright work for a "grab chain" (?) (GREAT for a daily driver,
Maybe stand a replate for a high value restoration, with the screws)
AND IF these are station wagon ONLY, the front parking/turn signal
light buckets (NO LENS) I will be checking these for fit to my project
before I let them go.
I can do pics or scans of any of these items!
Yes there were other parts in this box That I Am Keeping.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:35:27 +1200
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C Body mount bracing
Hi all
Does anyone on the list have their 300C/ D h/top or convert pulled down/disassembled or pics of the floorpan & body to frame mount holes.
My 390hp C seems to have extra bracing around the body mounts. I have checked it against my other C and it does not have the same brackets/gussetts surrounding the mounts. I am guessing that the 390 cars may have had a convert type floorpan. Any feedback on what your C or D has would be appreciated. I can email pics of what I'm rambling on about to anyone interested.
Thanks
Owen
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 22:06:20 -0400
From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: help !!
Hi Gang, Not for my G, but I need a headliner for my "driver" 62 Newport 4 dr. anyone know a source?? thanks, Larry Meixner 300G (and 62 newport)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 02:20:12 +0000
From: "elmer tuuri" <eltuuri@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
Does a worn pushrod make noise [knock]? We diagnosed with a stethescope a
noise coming from
fuel pump-- no noticeable loss of power. I had a 55 ford once [in late 50's]
Seemed to be same
problem-- changed pump- noise gone. Ordered new pump. Should check pushrod
too I guess
78 NY -400
Elmer Tuuri
>From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer
>Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400
>
>To all, re fuel pump problems:
>
>It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, temporarily,
>in-line, and drive the car while observing the gauge. Loss of pressure at
>higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint the problem to a fuel
>starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics time. Other starvation
>causes
>can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as well as rusty lines, or
>(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter ! Blowing some compressed
>air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!)
>should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to some degree. Don't go
>nuts with the air pressure !
>
>While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a wonderful addition to any
>car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes starting the car a snap,
>especially after it has been sitting for weeks or months. It probably saves
>a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other components. The car does not
>have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line fuel pressure regulator,
>though !
>
>Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some similar item, should be
>used with any electric fuel pump. There are many different types,
>adjustable
>from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34 bucks. Check out Summit's #
>SUM-G3131 at
>
>http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpar
>t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131
>
>With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a will, there is a way, you
>should be able to get that sucker out, even if it is somewhat mushroomed,
>and even though the clearances are relatively close where the rod goes
>through the block. It certainly is an indication that something is wrong
>in
>that the rod refuses to come out !
>
>John Hertog
>Sag Harbor NY
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 20:56:48 -0600
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
Terry and Group-
This one got my curiosity up so I just went out and looked at the 5 64
Chryslers I have here at home.
K hardtop, build date 9/12/63 Midland Ross unit, no plug on M/C 413 engine
300 sport 4 dr. parts car-2/13/64 Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383
2barrel Newport/300"one of
none" wagon- Midland Ross, no plug 361 2 barrel(for now)
300 Sport 2drht. Same, has plug on bottom of M/C 383 2 barrel
K hardtop, Kelsey Hayes unit, no plug 413 engine
Now- the Service Technical Manual doesn't even list a Kelsey Hayes unit! I
have owned the car since 1982, never changed the booster, looks to be
original. None of the photos in the manual show a master cylinder with the
"extra" plug like 2 of mine have. Neither one of the K's are ram cars, so
the remote booster does not come into the equation.
It doesn't appear that there is any real pattern here that I can see.
Any one out there got a answer for Terry? It would appear that all my
investigation has done is muddied the waters! The factory parts manual
lists ONE booster for the 64 Dodge 880, Newports, 300 & 300K non ram and the
New Yorker-2525428. The master cylinder shows the same part number for ALL
64 Chrysler products with power brakes (except ram K) 2275519.
Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+M+ others.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Town" <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "300 List Posts" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 2:44 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
> I'm confused and hoping someone can help me out. I have a '64 300 Sport
with a 383 and power brakes. I need a new brake master cylinder, so the
local NAPA sells me one. NAPA part # 10-36706, it looks very similar to the
existing one, but has an additional downward pointing outlet just under the
regular horizontally pointing outlet. The second outlet is capped off with a
plug, so I figure that the unit will still work fine. When I got the old
master cylinder off I compared the two. The NAPA one has a casting number on
the bottom of the unit of 2265634. My old one has a casting # of 2265633.
Hmmmm. I then noticed that the receptacle depths for the pushrod in the back
of the MC piston are different between the two MCs. The NAPA one is about
.95" deep and my old one is 1.25" deep. I thought that maybe it's as simple
as adjusting my pushrod shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much from the
power booster unit. I looked in the factory service manual for adjustment
info and here is where I got really confused. My power booster visually
appears to be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm type, and the FSM clearly states that
these are for Imperials only. (It also says to NOT adjust the pushrod)
>
> Did 300 Sports come with the Bendix dual diaphragm unit? If so, does
anybody know a NAPA part # for the proper MC to use with this booster unit?
Or do I need to just adjust the pushrod in about .3"?
>
> If the booster unit isn't the proper one for the car, I'd like to replace
it with the proper one. Any thoughts on where these might be available, part
numbers (NAPA or otherwise) to ask for, etc.
>
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Terry Lynch
> St. Petersburg, FL
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 22:58:19 -0500
From: "Tim Tomlinson" <tomlin@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
Terry, and list,
1. I have two 300-K's. Both have the Midland Ross booster, but one is from
an early version that would supposedly not appear on '64 car.
2. When I tried replacing a bad booster and mastercylinder, I too got one
from a parts place--Car Quest. The replacment master cylinder also had the
lower port with pipeplug fitting. Casting was the same. Worked OK for me.
However, I had all sorts of problems with the booster. Long story
short--after five replacements, each with a different problem--I sent the
old booster to be rebuilt by "Booster" Dewey in OR. Still have the last
"reconditioned" booster from Car Quest--ought to send it off to have a
working spare at least.
3. I was told by the man behind the counter the second port was because
later version master cylinders were used as a core and rebuilt to original
specs for the '64. The later version used a split system. I do not know
how much later, but my '68 Chry. New Yorker master cylinder looks entirely
different, so would be at most from '65 to '67.
4. I am sure this too only muddies the water further. I'd screw in the
acorn nut on the end of the pushrod a little and see what happens to braking
response and release of the fluid pressure when you let off the brake pedal.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Town <terrytown@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 300 List Posts <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 3:44 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] '64 Brake MC/Booster Question
> I'm confused and hoping someone can help me out. I have a '64 300 Sport
with a 383 and power brakes. I need a new brake master cylinder, so the
local NAPA sells me one. NAPA part # 10-36706, it looks very similar to the
existing one, but has an additional downward pointing outlet just under the
regular horizontally pointing outlet. The second outlet is capped off with a
plug, so I figure that the unit will still work fine. When I got the old
master cylinder off I compared the two. The NAPA one has a casting number on
the bottom of the unit of 2265634. My old one has a casting # of 2265633.
Hmmmm. I then noticed that the receptacle depths for the pushrod in the back
of the MC piston are different between the two MCs. The NAPA one is about
.95" deep and my old one is 1.25" deep. I thought that maybe it's as simple
as adjusting my pushrod shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much from the
power booster unit. I looked in the factory service manual for adjustment
info and here is where I got really confused. My power booster visually
appears to be a Bendix Dual Diaphragm type, and the FSM clearly states that
these are for Imperials only. (It also says to NOT adjust the pushrod)
>
> Did 300 Sports come with the Bendix dual diaphragm unit? If so, does
anybody know a NAPA part # for the proper MC to use with this booster unit?
Or do I need to just adjust the pushrod in about .3"?
>
> If the booster unit isn't the proper one for the car, I'd like to replace
it with the proper one. Any thoughts on where these might be available, part
numbers (NAPA or otherwise) to ask for, etc.
>
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Terry Lynch
> St. Petersburg, FL
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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