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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: rear end housing swap
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
2. 300H Fuel pump problem
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
5. 331 to 354
From: Hardy Graham Jr <hpgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. (Chrysler 300) 300H Fuel problem
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. 300F hardtop project - for sale
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Radio Rebuild Sources
From: choochooch@xxxxxxx
13. chrysler 300F brake trouble.
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. 300H Fuel problem - answer
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: (Chrysler 300) 300H Fuel problem
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Old Cars and E-lecticity
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re:(chrysler300) 300H fuel Problem
From: Kenneth Wilson <jblken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Fuel pump push rods and frustration, long slow trips home...
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Fuel Pump Rod
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Old Cars and E-lecticity
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Fuel Pump Rod
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
23. 300/other -fuel pump traps, ferrari comment reply, etc.
From: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Fuel Pump Rod
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Old Cars and E-lecticity
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 04:07:28 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: rear end housing swap
i have a 66 chrysler housing under my 64 ram k and have 275-60-15
tires on 8 in rally rims and plenty of room.
JEFF
tucson az.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:38:14 -0400
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H Fuel pump problem
Hi Group,
Let's say there is a fuel delivery problem with a 413 dual quad. And let's
say it may be caused by a pump push rod that's too short. Is it practical
to install an electric pump somewhere back near the fuel tank and pump the
fuel through a "dummy" mechanical pump on the engine? Is a pump that pumps
5.5 to 9 PSI strong enough to flow ample fuel to the carbs? The book says
2.5 to 5 PSI but I must allow for friction loss through the line to the
engine. The root of my problem I think is a push rod that's too short in
this "brand new" engine. I'm unable to get the rod out without dismantling
the engine, as I believe the top of the rod may have a slight mushroom on
it. I sure would like to meet the guy who "rebuilt" this motor. Is it that
simple or is there something I'm overlooking? Will the carbs be able to
regulate this pressure?
Thanks for the help,
Mark Souders
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:06:16 -0400
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
Mark,
Yes, a good electric pump near the tank will push fuel through a
non-operating mechanical pump on the engine. That's basically what many of
us do routinely when we use the electric pump to fill the carb's after the
car has sat for a while. 5.5 psi at the pump should be plenty to operate
the car routinely, but I don't know if it would keep up with full throttle
acceleration.
Park Waldrop
C cpe - Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 07:39:13 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
one thing that you need to be aware of is that in that mode of
operation you are working the diaphragm of the mech. pump harder than it
was ever designed to work and a split diaph. will fill the crankcase
with gasoline rather quickly. this is both bad and dangerous; bad from
the standpoint of losing lubricity and wiping bearings and dangerous
from the standpoint of fire. i wont even run a stock fuel pump on an
engine because of this fact, all of my fuel systems are completely
electric with no way to flood the crankcase with gas, ive been there and
done that and cost a set of rods and mains on a 426 hemi, not again...
JEFF
tucson az.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:33:49 -0500
From: Hardy Graham Jr <hpgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 331 to 354
I can't remember if I asked this question already so I will ask again. If
you have a 331 that has been bored out to a 354, what head gaskets should
you use. Can 331 head gaskets be used or should 354 gaskets be used. My
engine has been bored and I only have a set of 331 gaskets. Thought I would
ask before I bought a set of 354 gaskets. Also, is there a source for the
little reflectors on the taillights of a C300?
Thanks.
Hardy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:17:29 -0400
From: "Park Waldrop" <pwald@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
I agree with Jeff that there's a potential risk of diaphragm rupture putting
fuel in the crankcase, but it doesn't seem to me that it's heightened by
having an electric pump operating at the tank while the mechanical pump
merely sits there having fuel flow through it. That said, I wouldn't use an
electric that produced more than 6-7 psi at the engine.
If appearance isn't a factor, the pump can be removed and the hole blocked,
as Jeff has done. If appearance IS important, maybe going into the pump and
removing the outlet check valve would reduce the risk of overpressuring the
diaphragm.
Park Waldrop
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:57:17 -0400
From: Mark Souders <souders@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300H Fuel pump problem
Bill,
I also doubt that the rod was made too short, it worked well for two weeks,
200 miles, and just stopped working. I've checked two other pumps and all
three have the same lever and at the same angle. I don't think it is gunked
up, the inside of the engine is otherwise spotless. The oil is still clear,
of course I don't know how long the oil normally stays clean in a fresh
engine. I checked the rod travel, and it has plenty of cam push. When I
pull on the rod it has the feel of a definite stop like it may be
mushroomed, not like it's squishing against gunk. Oh, and one more thing I
noticed, the bottom end of the rod is a little rough and shows a slight
mushrooming also, feels like a slight burr on the end, as if the rod was not
hardened.
Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Huff [SMTP:whuff@xxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 1:25 PM
> To: Mark Souders
> Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel pump problem
>
>
> >Hi Mark and Group,
>
>
> First of all, I seriously doubt that the push rod was made too short. To
> the best of my knowledge, all the "B" and "RB" engines, that is to say the
>
> 350, 361, 383, 413, 426 and 440 cid engines, all use the same fuel pump
> push rod. I have also experienced difficulty removing them, but it has
> always turned out to be carbon and gunk built up on the cam shaft side of
> the rod, which jams in the hole bored in the block when you try to pull it
>
> out. Usually, persistence will pay off, keep trying, but don't use brute
> force, just keep pulling against the stoppage over and over again. I
> don't
> have an engine apart, but I seem to remember that you can access that end
> of the shaft with a small bent scraper by going through the fuel pump
> mounting hole which can be used to clean enough of the end of the rod to
> pull it through the hole. It may have been from the bottom with the oil
> pan off, my data retrieval isn't what it used to be.
>
> In my opinion, if there is really any sort of mushroom on the end, the rod
>
> is ruined, and so is the camshaft eccentric that drives the pump rod.
> They
> depend on a mirror finish and hardened surfaces with lots of oil to work
> properly. It may be that the pump rod was not removed during rebuild, and
>
> hence is gunked up. By pushing the rod inward against the cam and slowly
> manually rolling the engine over, you can verify that there is a
> reasonable
> stroke being applied to the fuel pump lever. Use pliers or a stick to
> hold
> the rod, don't put your finger on the end of the rod while moving the
> engine or you may get a surprise. :^)
>
> Have you verified that the fuel pump is correct for the application and is
>
> working properly? I have had 3 brand new Carter fuel pumps that didn't
> work properly. When compared to a known good pump, they seemed to have
> the
> wrong lever angle, so the stroke was very short. when installing the
> pump,
> be sure to hook the lever under the rod and then compress the pump to
> install the bolts. I think you could actually install the pump with the
> lever to the side of the rod if you forced it.
>
> I have a GTX that has a Holley blue electric pump mounted in the trunk and
>
> a mechanical fuel pump for over 20 years now. It works well, we use both
> the ,mechanical and electric pumps when drag racing, even though the car
> is
> basically stock, there is a noticeably difference in performance without
> the electric fuel pump as a booster. I bought a Holley regulator and
> installed it before the carburetor, just in case. Hope this helps, good
> luck.
>
> Bill Huff
>
> > The root of my problem I think is a push rod that's too short in
> >this "brand new" engine. I'm unable to get the rod out without
> dismantling
> >the engine, as I believe the top of the rod may have a slight mushroom
> on
> >it. I sure would like to meet the guy who "rebuilt" this motor. Is it
> that
> >simple or is there something I'm overlooking? Will the carbs be able to
> >regulate this pressure?
> >
> >Thanks for the help,
> >Mark Souders
> >
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:35:33 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
Mark Souders wrote:
>
> Hi Group,
> Let's say there is a fuel delivery problem with a 413 dual quad. And let's
> say it may be caused by a pump push rod that's too short. Is it practical
> to install an electric pump somewhere back near the fuel tank and pump the
> fuel through a "dummy" mechanical pump on the engine? Is a pump that pumps
> 5.5 to 9 PSI strong enough to flow ample fuel to the carbs? The book says
> 2.5 to 5 PSI but I must allow for friction loss through the line to the
> engine. The root of my problem I think is a push rod that's too short in
> this "brand new" engine. I'm unable to get the rod out without dismantling
> the engine, as I believe the top of the rod may have a slight mushroom on
> it. I sure would like to meet the guy who "rebuilt" this motor. Is it that
> simple or is there something I'm overlooking? Will the carbs be able to
> regulate this pressure?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Mark Souders
There was a period of time where there exsisted a BAD BATCH of big block fuel
pump push rods.
That said, in the 70's we ran a electric pump at the tank, through the stock
mechanical pump for quite some time in our race car. NO Problems ever, well
ok once, when the driver forgot to turn the electric pump on and starved out
the motor at a little over 7,000 rpm. Luckely we not at a track near home so
any of the folks who knew us didnt see this, therefore no ammo for a ribbing
session.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:40:41 -0700
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (Chrysler 300) 300H Fuel problem
After reading all of the communications on 413 fuel pumps, it just dawned on
me that this could be my the answer to my acceleration problem also! When I
stick my foot in it, my H acts like it should up to about 50 mph and then
sort of " blubbers", or partially dies.When I accelerate like a sane person
I don't have the problem. I first thought that it was a carburetor problem,
but I got the same results with a second set of carb's.I then started to
question my distributor and am trying to find a sun machine to get it
checked. Am I correct in thinking that my problem could just be being
starved for fuel? While I'm on a roll, I may as well ask about fuel
additives. Should I be adding anything to this 91 octane stuff that we get
out here on the left coast? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Doug Warrener 300H HT.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:43:37 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300F hardtop project - for sale
Hi to all,
The realities of a new full-time job, and too many projects, all point to
the fact that I have to thin my automotive herd somewhat. Albeit
reluctantly. I hereby first offer to this group my terra-cotta 300F
restoration project. This is a very difficult decision for me to make, but I
am trying to keep the car's best interest at heart .
Quick description: terra-cotta "F" hardtop, VIN 8403115803 . Air
Conditioning; Power Vacuum Locks; Heater, Golden-Touch Radio, Rear Speaker,
Power Antenna, Rear Defogger, Door Edge Protector, Vanity Mirror, License
Plate Frame, Automatic Headlight Dimmer, Sure-Grip, Tinted Glass. Sold new
in Port Washington, LI NY
Condition : pretty bad. Extreme rust. (extra 300F hardtop a/c bare body
included in good shape to help in restoration) . Not running, hasn't run in
years. Needs full and complete restoration from Alpha to Zebra, front to
rear, top to bottom. Missing some parts but I have them all.
Can be sold two ways : "as is" with extra body thrown in AND original
engine (there is another 413 in the car now) OR with an extensive
inventory of new, reconditionned and rechromed / replated / NOS etc. parts
that I accumulated to restore the car. The only item I think missing in the
parts package would be 2 or 3 of the 14" 6'5" rims.
Please e-mail me crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx) or call me if any interest. I would
much prefer to sell to a Club member ; and I will ONLY sell to someone who
will convince me that they will restore the car, and not part it out. The
last 300F hardtop I sold ended up in Finland, and could not have gone to a
better home; it is being treated to a very serious nut-and-bolt restoration
and will be correctly and lovingly restored. This is what I want for this
car too.
The car itself, as I obtained it, would not be tremendously expensive. The
collection of parts that go with it would be. I do not necessarily need to
sell the parts with the car.
There are thousands of dollars' worth of parts that were earmarked for this
car, from a Timo Tanskanen correct tinted bubble windshield, to a Greg
Legatt wiring harness, excellent hubcaps, NOS lenses, either great Arizona
chrome or already rechromed items, etc. etc. . But there are hours and
hours of work to be put into this project, and that's what I no longer
have - the time to see it through.
Sincerely
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:25:08 -0400
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
>Hi Mark and Group,
First of all, I seriously doubt that the push rod was made too short. To
the best of my knowledge, all the "B" and "RB" engines, that is to say the
350, 361, 383, 413, 426 and 440 cid engines, all use the same fuel pump
push rod. I have also experienced difficulty removing them, but it has
always turned out to be carbon and gunk built up on the cam shaft side of
the rod, which jams in the hole bored in the block when you try to pull it
out. Usually, persistence will pay off, keep trying, but don't use brute
force, just keep pulling against the stoppage over and over again. I don't
have an engine apart, but I seem to remember that you can access that end
of the shaft with a small bent scraper by going through the fuel pump
mounting hole which can be used to clean enough of the end of the rod to
pull it through the hole. It may have been from the bottom with the oil
pan off, my data retrieval isn't what it used to be.
In my opinion, if there is really any sort of mushroom on the end, the rod
is ruined, and so is the camshaft eccentric that drives the pump rod. They
depend on a mirror finish and hardened surfaces with lots of oil to work
properly. It may be that the pump rod was not removed during rebuild, and
hence is gunked up. By pushing the rod inward against the cam and slowly
manually rolling the engine over, you can verify that there is a reasonable
stroke being applied to the fuel pump lever. Use pliers or a stick to hold
the rod, don't put your finger on the end of the rod while moving the
engine or you may get a surprise. :^)
Have you verified that the fuel pump is correct for the application and is
working properly? I have had 3 brand new Carter fuel pumps that didn't
work properly. When compared to a known good pump, they seemed to have the
wrong lever angle, so the stroke was very short. when installing the pump,
be sure to hook the lever under the rod and then compress the pump to
install the bolts. I think you could actually install the pump with the
lever to the side of the rod if you forced it.
I have a GTX that has a Holley blue electric pump mounted in the trunk and
a mechanical fuel pump for over 20 years now. It works well, we use both
the ,mechanical and electric pumps when drag racing, even though the car is
basically stock, there is a noticeably difference in performance without
the electric fuel pump as a booster. I bought a Holley regulator and
installed it before the carburetor, just in case. Hope this helps, good luck.
Bill Huff
> The root of my problem I think is a push rod that's too short in
>this "brand new" engine. I'm unable to get the rod out without dismantling
>the engine, as I believe the top of the rod may have a slight mushroom on
>it. I sure would like to meet the guy who "rebuilt" this motor. Is it that
>simple or is there something I'm overlooking? Will the carbs be able to
>regulate this pressure?
>
>Thanks for the help,
>Mark Souders
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 18:15:25 EDT
From: choochooch@xxxxxxx
Subject: Radio Rebuild Sources
Several months ago I wrote the group asking for advice on rebuilding old
radios. The shop that came up most often I believe was located in Florida.
Unfortunately, I accidentally erased the address. Would someone mind sending
a fellow club member (who is computer illiterate) this information again?
Thanks, M Corrigan (c-300)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 21:46:09 +0000
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: chrysler 300F brake trouble.
Hello Everyone.
I am having brake trouble with my 300F.I was headed for
a car show and had to brake a little hard for a redlight and it stopped fine
but later the braking power was weak. The brakes have been rebuilt at one
time using silicone fluid i found no leaks of any kind the brake shoes are
good so could the power booster cause you to almost have no brakes.
Everything was fine until i had to brake hard i also adjusted the brake
shoes.Thank you tom.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:51:24 -0500
From: paul holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel pump problem
William Huff wrote:
> >Hi Mark and Group,
> First of all, I seriously doubt that the push rod was made too short. To
> the best of my knowledge, all the "B" and "RB" engines, that is to say the
> 350, 361, 383, 413, 426 and 440 cid engines, all use the same fuel pump
> push rod. I have also experienced difficulty removing them, but it has
> always turned out to be carbon and gunk built up on the cam shaft side of
> the rod, which jams in the hole bored in the block when you try to pull it
> out. Usually, persistence will pay off, keep trying, but don't use brute
> force, just keep pulling against the stoppage over and over again. I don't
> have an engine apart, but I seem to remember that you can access that end
> of the shaft with a small bent scraper by going through the fuel pump
> mounting hole which can be used to clean enough of the end of the rod to
> pull it through the hole. It may have been from the bottom with the oil
> pan off, my data retrieval isn't what it used to be.
The "Bad Batch" I am aware of was not that they were to short, it was that
they were too SOFT. THey were wearing away till they were too short.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:11 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H Fuel problem - answer
To all, re fuel pump problems:
It is not tremendously hard to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, temporarily,
in-line, and drive the car while observing the gauge. Loss of pressure at
higher RPM's under load will certainly pinpoint the problem to a fuel
starvation issue, and save lots of diagnostics time. Other starvation causes
can be a clogged fuel sock in the tank pickup, as well as rusty lines, or
(let's not overlook the obvious) a clogged filter ! Blowing some compressed
air back into the fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (WITH GAS CAP OFF!!!)
should eliminate blockages and unclog the sock to some degree. Don't go
nuts with the air pressure !
While not "original", an electric fuel pump is a wonderful addition to any
car.. I have one in my 300G convert, and it makes starting the car a snap,
especially after it has been sitting for weeks or months. It probably saves
a lot of wear and tear on starter, and other components. The car does not
have a regular fuel pump; it does have an in-line fuel pressure regulator,
though !
Summit Racing's Fuel Pressure regulator, or some similar item, should be
used with any electric fuel pump. There are many different types, adjustable
from 3 psi to 12 psi. Cost is as low as $34 bucks. Check out Summit's #
SUM-G3131 at
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpar
t&searchtype=both&part=SUM-G3131
With regards to Mark's problem - when there is a will, there is a way, you
should be able to get that sucker out, even if it is somewhat mushroomed,
and even though the clearances are relatively close where the rod goes
through the block. It certainly is an indication that something is wrong in
that the rod refuses to come out !
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:21:14 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (Chrysler 300) 300H Fuel problem
Doug,
If you really wanted to know, you could mount a pressure guage in the fuel
line and check the pressure. Find a spot to insert a "t" fitting between
the fuel pump and the carbs, or between the carbs and run a small line to
a mechanical pressure guage . you can sneak the line out under the rear
edge of the hood leaving the guage on the cowl, in front of the windshield,
visible thru the glass (hold it there with duct tape or zip tie it to a
wiper blade. Then you can run the car at speed and check the fuel delivery.
I used to have a nice big 0-30 lb pressure guage mounted right in front of
the windshield of my bracket racer, it sure was a dandy tool for keeping
things sorted out.
Mike
At 12:40 PM 5/19/2003 -0700, Doug Warrener wrote:
>After reading all of the communications on 413 fuel pumps, it just dawned on
>me that this could be my the answer to my acceleration problem also! When I
>stick my foot in it, my H acts like it should up to about 50 mph and then
>sort of " blubbers", or partially dies.When I accelerate like a sane person
>I don't have the problem. I first thought that it was a carburetor problem,
>but I got the same results with a second set of carb's.I then started to
>question my distributor and am trying to find a sun machine to get it
>checked. Am I correct in thinking that my problem could just be being
>starved for fuel? While I'm on a roll, I may as well ask about fuel
>additives. Should I be adding anything to this 91 octane stuff that we get
>out here on the left coast? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
>Doug Warrener 300H HT.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 17:58:42 -0700
From: "Frank Bakanau" <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Old Cars and E-lecticity
You may remember my ordeal with my C-300's wiring. It was BAD. I re-wired
it completely and have had no problems at all... until yesterday.
I was checking the turn signals before setting out for a drive. The left
one was fine, but the right seemed a bit bright. I got out of the car and
walked to the front. You can not know how I felt when I saw the headlights
flashing with the turn signal. My heart sank. I had installed my newly
converted-to-12v Neg Ground AM radio, and had some of the dash out. It must
be the switch. After checking EVERYTHING, I was really bummed. Looking for
other things to check, I pulled the right rear socket. The problem went
away! It seems the bulb was not seated properly, and the double bases were
feeding e-lectricity from the flasher/brake circuit into the lighting
circuit. I never would have guessed that this could cause the problem.
All's well now.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 20:33:37 -0700
From: Kenneth Wilson <jblken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:(chrysler300) 300H fuel Problem
Here is my experience with my sport 300 fuel starving. I got my car
running after setting for years, I had removed the gas tank and flushed
it clean, replaced the timing chain, put on an old rebuilt carb new fuel
pump and hoses in fuel line and new filter. The car would start and
run ( and idle) for hours. But alas I could not get more then 3-4 (some
times less) blocks from home and it would quit due to lack of fuel (the
clear see through fuel filter would be low) . The fuel pump was putting
out 5 PSI When I would check it. After month of trying which included
two more fuel pumps, another fresh rebuilt carb, another tune up, and 2
new fuel filters and the car still would crap out. The car would run
out of fuel under a driving load.
Having done everything I could think of - I was about to remove the gas
tank again when it accrued to me that maybe the original filter got
clogged - so I again removed the sending unit from the Tank (I had bead
blasted the sending unit when I had the tank out and cleaned, and the
original filter was intact and clean), broke of the original filter (it
was still intact, very clean, and not clogged), and low -and-behold the
first 4 inches or so of the suction tube (the horizontal portion to the
first bend) was 50% block with hard mud like crud. I tried all kinds
of solvents to clean it out - none worked! Had to use a drill and air
pressure to ream out this caked crud. Results: I could floor board it,
in second, on the freeway, for a mile without a miss or loss of power.
Ken Wilson, San Jose, Calif.
62-300H
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 21:35:34 -0600
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel pump push rods and frustration, long slow trips home...
Greetings group!
About 5 years ago I had a 66 Coronet 440 2drht. with a 383 4 barrel. My brother in law owned it prior to my obtaining it and always had trouble getting it to start after sitting a day or more. He put in a new fuel pump,two different ones as he thought the first was defective, filter etc. No change. I get the car and put a new filter in the tank, No change. Then the car starts acting like it runs out of gas at full throttle acceleration, other than that, ran fine. The day I have the car in town and have a appointment to give a talk to a driver ed class it dies going up a small hill. No gas. Finally got it home by priming the carb, jumping in and keeping the throttle at half floored all the way home- it would run until it ran out of gas, coast until it got more from a coasting "dead" engine, 40 miles home, 19 on a very busy 2 lane.This about drove me insane trying to figure out why. A friend suggested I pull the push rod out and check it- the cam end was worn off to the point the rod only had enough travel left to just move the fuel pump lever a fraction of it's normal travel. New push rod, end of problem. I kept that rod as a reminder. I have gone into 5 big blocks for various reasons since and 2 had worn rods, not near as bad but would have been if not replaced, the engines with the worn rods came from fairly low mileage engines (as the one in the Coronet) and must have spent many days/weeks without being started over the life of the engine/car. May that be part of the problem? Lack of oil at that spot on start-up after sitting for long periods of time? Food for thought.... New ones are still available from your local dealer.
Joe Pierce 300J+Kx3+M+others
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 20:56:09 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Pump Rod
I also had a bad experience. I fought the fuel problem for a month. Got
Towed home 3 times. To make it short it was the fuel pump rod and it
had a little over 5/16" worn away. Now I replace them at every rebuild
or sooner.
Gary Barker
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 21:04:03 -0700
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Old Cars and E-lecticity
They call it feed back. Usually caused by a lack of a good ground circuit on that
section.
Gary Barker
Frank Bakanau wrote:
> You may remember my ordeal with my C-300's wiring. It was BAD. I re-wired
> it completely and have had no problems at all... until yesterday.
>
> I was checking the turn signals before setting out for a drive. The left
> one was fine, but the right seemed a bit bright. I got out of the car and
> walked to the front. You can not know how I felt when I saw the headlights
> flashing with the turn signal. My heart sank. I had installed my newly
> converted-to-12v Neg Ground AM radio, and had some of the dash out. It must
> be the switch. After checking EVERYTHING, I was really bummed. Looking for
> other things to check, I pulled the right rear socket. The problem went
> away! It seems the bulb was not seated properly, and the double bases were
> feeding e-lectricity from the flasher/brake circuit into the lighting
> circuit. I never would have guessed that this could cause the problem.
> All's well now.
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 00:26:57 EDT
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Rod
Does anyone have the part # for the big block fuel pump rod? How about the
correct length of an unworn one that we can keep for reference when needed?
300ly
Mike Laiserin
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 14:44:51 +1000
From: "christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300/other -fuel pump traps, ferrari comment reply, etc.
re recent comment - fuel supply problems are not always so easy.
Firstly - sometimes 'fuel problems are actually a crook coil or condenser -
so always check you still have good spark. Blocked fuel tank filter/pipe is
another, as is always have hose clips on any rubber hose between pump and
tank.
Another 300 ( C series Carter) carb trap - here there are multiple internal
fine gauze filters inside the carb, one very small barrel type one after the
very obvious big mesh one under the big brass 'plug' atop the carby. (Do
not know about later series carbs.) Holley carbs have another as yet I
believe unmentioned fire risk - the rubber o-ring round the needle and seat
shrinks, gets worse and worse until allows fuel past, floods carby - test by
they (centre needle assembly) should be 'firm to turn' when adjusting float
height - if not, are likely about to leak.
Now?!
1. If you install an electric pump, always put it on a circuit so if you
forget and leave the key on it, cannot fill any motor cylinders (sump
ultimately if leaks past rings) with petrol if left on?
2. fuel pump pressure - once you get around/over 3-5lbs, you run the risk it
will overload the needle and seat, flood the carby, risk a fire. (I have an
original Carter on my '58 Cad, fitted the AC mech pump off a triple carb Cad
Eldo to replace a non original aftermarket one that vapourised when hot.
The Eldo pump has higher pressure supplying Rochesters - whatever, every so
often, when hot, fuel would bleed past new needle and seat into carby
throat, make it a bitch to start without long cranking over to clear excess
fuel. So be wary of too high a pressure, fit orig spec pump if possible?
3. Fire risk. At least with mechanical pump, if motor stops, pump stops.
Sometimes car can catch fire unknown, before you are aware of it - electric
pump/ignition is something else to remember to turn off in panic situation,
if motor has already stalled as part of giving you the clue you have a
problrem?
4. reliaibilty - mech pumps seem to go for 20-30 years, not so most electric
ones?
5. easy starting after standing for weeks - cannot argue against that
electric is best here.
Comment re website comment 'Ferraris are raced, Lambos not'. Here in
Australia we have a series called "Nations Cup" - Lamborghinis race and
win, latest and Countach models, against new Ferrari, Porsche, etc.. The
legendary Daytona may have won races, but I still stand by my earlier
comment they are a truck to see out of and drive below 70 mph, especially
compared to both Muira and more mundane 4 seat Espada. ( I had a 65 Old
Cutlass 330 V8 convert that was smaller and more of a blast to drive
compared to the Daytona up to 80 mph - it had a bigger holley, non orig disc
brakes, radials.)
I have never driven a 300F, or B, but a C with radials and good shocks, is
real fun nearly every moment, situation, to drive hard on bitumen, smooth
dirt - way ahead of it's time. Only on very bad dirt washaways, real bad
gravel corrugations, does the body on chassis limitations/shakes, become
evident, force you to slow to save the car somewhat.
Final word on 'desirability/true value now'? young 'aussie turks' today
seem to know and dream more of a Lambo than Ferrari, this despite ferrari's
F1 dominance - don't ask me to explain - and where does Chrysler fit in -
Vipers are cool, so are 68-70 Chargers, otherwise? (in their eyes do others
even exist ??!) (even the just mentioned 'nissans' are kool here - 90s
Skylines, GTRs, 180 and 200SXs)
yours from perhaps finally drought breakingly wet South Australia,
Aussie Christopher
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ninemsn Extra Storage is now available. Get five times more storage - 10MB
in your Hotmail account. Go to
http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/home&pgmarket=en-au
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 23:17:04 -0600
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Rod
Mike and Group-
Part number is 3751613. Length is 3 3/16". Each end has a turned down
section of a slightly smaller diameter that is 3/4" long. If either end is
shorter than that- pitch it and put a new one in!
----- Original Message -----
From: <mwl1967@xxxxxxx>
To: <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fuel Pump Rod
> Does anyone have the part # for the big block fuel pump rod? How about
the
> correct length of an unworn one that we can keep for reference when
needed?
>
> 300ly
> Mike Laiserin
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 01:16:24 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Old Cars and E-lecticity
Anther version of this problem is putting a single contact bulb into a
double contact socket. Put on the turn siginals and ALL the lights flash.
Get those Meet reservations and registrations in now folks, Ray Jones
> From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 21:04:03 -0700
> To: Frank Bakanau <FBAKANAU@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, listserver 300 club
> <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Old Cars and E-lecticity
>
> They call it feed back. Usually caused by a lack of a good ground circuit on
> that
> section.
>
> Gary Barker
>
> Frank Bakanau wrote:
>
>> You may remember my ordeal with my C-300's wiring. It was BAD. I re-wired
>> it completely and have had no problems at all... until yesterday.
>>
>> I was checking the turn signals before setting out for a drive. The left
>> one was fine, but the right seemed a bit bright. I got out of the car and
>> walked to the front. You can not know how I felt when I saw the headlights
>> flashing with the turn signal. My heart sank. I had installed my newly
>> converted-to-12v Neg Ground AM radio, and had some of the dash out. It must
>> be the switch. After checking EVERYTHING, I was really bummed. Looking for
>> other things to check, I pulled the right rear socket. The problem went
>> away! It seems the bulb was not seated properly, and the double bases were
>> feeding e-lectricity from the flasher/brake circuit into the lighting
>> circuit. I never would have guessed that this could cause the problem.
>> All's well now.
>>
>>
>> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>> For list server instructions, go to
>> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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