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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Oil pump removal
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Oil pump removal
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Suspension parts needed
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Oil pump removal
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Oil pump removal
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Issues with 10-40
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Oil pump removal
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. spring meet in RI
From: slick wolf <goldenlion413@xxxxxxx>
9. C300 flywheel
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: C300 flywheel
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
11. Rhode Island Meet
From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxxxxxxx>
12. For sale 1956 Dodge Royal
From: Johnal & Cindy Holst <holst@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Unsubscribe for a month.
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 06:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
Hi Karl,
The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of the
motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The screen
is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big blocks
have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as you
have, no such problem.
What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual oil
pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew the
sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a LOT,
the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
clogged.
It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
that usually go first. That means the motor will
probably require a total rebuild.
For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get an
oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of the
10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on the
oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace the
oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
highest capacity and filters the smallest particles on
the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second and
that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
just don't know of any other place that sells the
kits. When you get the results back, if you have high
metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
some time, how much depends on how bad your engine is
now.
Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any more
questions regarding this.
300ly Russ Vaughan
--- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> screen from the side of
> the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> right?
>
> I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> after the motor warms up and
> need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> looking at main bearings
> and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> sits right on the lower
> limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> when first started up,
> rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
>
> It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> getting a bit
> concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> made no difference.
> Any hints or suggestions?
>
> Karl
> 61 300G
>
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:20:44 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
Karl,
First thing you need to do is check the oil pressure with a mechanical
gage. You can't rely on the dash one to give you a completely accurate
reading. If it checks out OK change the sending unit, they are prone to
leakage and inaccurate readings.The oil pump can be changed without dropping
the pan, the screen can not. What manual says you can remove the screen from
the side of the block? It's impossible, as the oil pump pickup and screen is
threaded into the block inside the pan. Dropping the pan on a car with rams
also requires removing the front exhaust system, as the balance tube runs
right under the pan. Low oil pressure after warm up is generally a sign of
loose bearing clearances.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:46 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal
> My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and screen from the side
of
> the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that right?
>
> I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure after the motor warms up
and
> need to check the pump and screen before I consider looking at main
bearings
> and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator sits right on the lower
> limit line of the "normal operating range", where when first started up,
> rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
>
> It's been doing this for some time now and I am just getting a bit
> concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil made no difference.
> Any hints or suggestions?
>
> Karl
> 61 300G
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Suspension parts needed
Carslisle is July 12-14 2002
--- Py426Hemi@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi
>
> I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I
> could find front suspension
> rebuild kit for my 65,300, I also including in that
> kit should be change out
> parts from drums
> to disc brakes plus what I should pay for something
> like this. I am also
> looking for aftermarket quarter panels both sides
> for the same car. I am not
> to worried about show quality on the panels because
> this car is my daily
> driver.
>
> does anyone know when is Chryslers at Carlisle? I
> hope I did not miiss it.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Wes Vanaman
>
>
=====
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
install a mechanical oil gauge to get a true reading
and go from there .
--- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> screen from the side of
> the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> right?
>
> I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> after the motor warms up and
> need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> looking at main bearings
> and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> sits right on the lower
> limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> when first started up,
> rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
>
> It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> getting a bit
> concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> made no difference.
> Any hints or suggestions?
>
> Karl
> 61 300G
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
=====
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Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:17:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
Want is wrong with 10w40 motor oil?
--- Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Karl,
>
> The pump is ice cream, four bolts on the side of
> the
> motor. It's what you put the oil filter on. The
> screen
> is is a little tougher, but still not difficult. You
> DO have to remove the oil pan. Because the big
> blocks
> have deep skirts, the pan rail is flat and drops
> without much problem. On single exhausts the exhaust
> crossover pipe gets in the way. With duals such as
> you
> have, no such problem.
>
> What I would do if in your shoes, is get an actual
> oil
> pressure gauge to see where you are. Just unscrew
> the
> sender on the top rear of the motor and get actual
> readings. Specs show about 45 lbs. Today's rule of
> thumb, you need 10 lbs. per 1000 rpm. The fact the
> pressure gets less as the engine heats up is OK if
> it's a little, it's the oil warming up. If it's a
> LOT,
> the reduced viscosity of the oil can't handle the
> clearances of the bearings. I doubt it's the screen
> clogged.
> It's been my experience that it's the rod bearings
> that usually go first. That means the motor will
> probably require a total rebuild.
>
> For now, I would go to the AMSOIL web site and get
> an
> oil filter for your car, or a couple ( I think their
> number is SDF 15 ) and an oil test kit. Get rid of
> the
> 10-40, it's the worst thing you can use. Get a good
> quality straight 30 weight. If your readings were
> low, say max in the 20 lb. range hot, I would get a
> high VOLUME oil pump. Drive at least 1000 mi. on
> the
> oil, drain it, take a test and send it in. Replace
> the
> oil, but not the filter. The AMSIOL filter has the
> highest capacity and filters the smallest particles
> on
> the market. Mobil One oil filter is a close second
> and
> that is fine if you're not getting the test kit. I
> just don't know of any other place that sells the
> kits. When you get the results back, if you have
> high
> metal content in the oil, you can count on a rebuild
> this winter. Following my suggestion will buy you
> some time, how much depends on how bad your engine
> is
> now.
>
> Good luck with it, don't hesitate to send me any
> more
> questions regarding this.
>
> 300ly Russ Vaughan
>
>
>
> --- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump
> and
> > screen from the side of
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > right?
> >
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > after the motor warms up and
> > need to check the pump and screen before I
> consider
> > looking at main bearings
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > sits right on the lower
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > when first started up,
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> >
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am
> just
> > getting a bit
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the
> oil
> > made no difference.
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> >
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> > http://messenger.msn.com
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> > http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
=====
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Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 08:13:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Russ Vaughan <russ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Issues with 10-40
Hi group, for those of you who asked, I quickly found
this article in a web search. I took the applicable
excerpt, but those who want to read further, the
entire text is at:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
"Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up
frequently in discussions between motorheads, whether
they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The
following article is intended to help you make a
choice based on more than the advertising hype.
Oil companies provide data on their oils most often
referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an
average of the actual physical and a few common
chemical properties of their oils. This information is
available to the public through their distributors or
by writing or calling the company directly. I have
compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so
that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite
oil is not on the list get the data from the
distributor and use what I have as a data base.
Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil.
More specifically, it is the property of an oil to
develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing
stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued
resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a
higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity.
This is the most important property for an engine. An
oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film
strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a
viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low
temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm.
The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers
assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive
Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real"
viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques.
These measurements are taken at specific temperatures.
Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5,
10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil
meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is
therefore suitable for Winter use.
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are
added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent
the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold
temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the
oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil
warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains
that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it
normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C
the oil has thinned only as much as the higher
viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at
multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight
oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would
when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements
in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use
a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity
that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going
to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the
lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer,
the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can
shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring
sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require
a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve
that range. This has caused problems in diesel
engines, but fewer polymers are better for all
engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general,
are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due
to the high polymer content. It is the oil that
lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their
job with the fewest additives are the best.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and
some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was
not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50
is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts
with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index
improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can
formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity
index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30.
Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30,
and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your
manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.
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Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 11:22:45 -0500
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil pump removal
That does seem to be the general consensus, along with replacing the 10/40
in there with some straight weight 30 (is 40 ok?). I've received some very
good and also quite interesting information on this subject.
It never ceases to amaze me as to just how little I actually know about
these cars and related issues. I will endeavor to keep the list informed as
to the results of the pressure gauge thingy, AFTER I change the oil.
Again, thanx to all that took the time to respond and contribute their
information.
Karl
'61 300G
>From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Oil pump removal
>Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
>
>install a mechanical oil gauge to get a true reading
>and go from there .
>
>--- Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > My service manual says I can remove the oil pump and
> > screen from the side of
> > the motor and NOT have to remove the pan? Is that
> > right?
> >
> > I am getting a drastically reduced oil pressure
> > after the motor warms up and
> > need to check the pump and screen before I consider
> > looking at main bearings
> > and the like. After warmed up the gauge indicator
> > sits right on the lower
> > limit line of the "normal operating range", where
> > when first started up,
> > rises to the upper mid-range portion of the gauge.
> >
> > It's been doing this for some time now and I am just
> > getting a bit
> > concerned. I use SAE 10/40 oil and changing the oil
> > made no difference.
> > Any hints or suggestions?
> >
> > Karl
> > 61 300G
> >
> >
> >
> >
>_________________________________________________________________
> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
> > http://messenger.msn.com
> >
> >
>
>
>=====
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
>http://health.yahoo.com
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 23:50:46 -0400
From: slick wolf <goldenlion413@xxxxxxx>
Subject: spring meet in RI
Sorry,
Can't make the meet have issues with my parking brake hanging up and
creating way too much heat under the car. I will have it apart for some
time until I figure out what is wrong . I am also getting one hell of a
vibration from the rear end. Have a wonderful time here in RI
Steve Menard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:29:22 -0400
From: "Jerry" <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C300 flywheel
Hi all. Took my C300 in to get the starter rebuilt and as it turn out that wasn't the main problem. I need to replace the flywheel. Anybody know where I can get one?
Jerry Browarski
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:58:21 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C300 flywheel
Hi Jerry,
Chrysler powerflites (and torqueflites) do not have a separate "flywheel".
The ring gear is a light press fit and is welded to the torque converter.
Actually, it is recommended that the ring gear be heated so It will go on
without pressing. You will have to find an old transmission shop who can do
the job.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry <mopar-man@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler 300 Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 8:29 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] C300 flywheel
> Hi all. Took my C300 in to get the starter rebuilt and as it turn out
that wasn't the main problem. I need to replace the flywheel. Anybody know
where I can get one?
>
> Jerry Browarski
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:59:31 -0400
From: "Larry Meixner" <gr8hirt@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rhode Island Meet
Hello Everyone, my name Is Larry Meixner, a new club member and I will be attending the meet in Rhode Island arriving on Friday evening. I won't have my 300G since it's still a basket case- but like they say- Moses was once a basket case too! I hope to meet with someone that evening so I have a "guide" to what's going on. I couldn't get a room at the same hotel as the club, so I'm staying a few miles away. If anyone has a phone number that I can call when I get there, I would appreciate it greatly. Thanks and hope to meet Ya'll then, Larry Meixner gr8hirt@xxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 21:30:39 -0600
From: Johnal & Cindy Holst <holst@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For sale 1956 Dodge Royal
Looked at this car this weekend sitting along the hiway at Elliston,
Montana
1956 Dodge Royal 4 dr body fairly straight some rust on left rear
wheel well
owner said floor boards also rusted. He had started on resto but
health problems forces sale
lots of good chrome, 270 hemi, engine was not in running condition
vin 12 1313 050 825 372 534 2 , owner says engine nos. match
asking $1200
owner phone no. 406-492-7172 please call him directly
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:11:24 +0200
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Unsubscribe for a month.
Hi, if I want to unsubscribe for a month should I write here or at
"Unsubscribe"
Sincerely Ivan/Sweden...
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