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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Gas tank repair
From: "Marilyn James" <tudor40@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Gas tank and fuel line repair
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. How NOT to sell a car on Ebay (long story, HUGE twists!)
From: "Brian Hagen" <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: [Chrysler 300] 361s
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 07:50:12 -0700
From: "Marilyn James" <tudor40@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gas tank repair
Hi Group,
First of all I would like thank this list for all the help in the
especially John Hertog.
Now I have a couple more requests.
1. My G has been sitting for about 30 years and I have varnish in my fuel
system
the carbs have been rebuilt and the fuel pump and filters have been
replaced. My
concern is with the tank and fuel line. Does anyone know of the best
way to clean
these parts?
2. When we got our G the radio knobs were missing. Does anyone know
where I
can pick up some knobs?
Thanks Again, Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 11:33:51 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gas tank and fuel line repair
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the kind words. Appreciate it. This listserver is a wonderful
tool for all of us.
300G sitting for 30 years.. well, that might be better than if it had sat
for ten years... the "old" gasoline tended to hold up a LOT better and
not
turn to mush quite as badly as the garbage they sell now.
Obviously, you need to drop the gas tank. Remove the sender. If it's
gummed
up, soak it in a container of lacquer thinner for a few days. New socks
are
avalable from your friendly Daimler-Chrysler dealer. Flush the tank out
with a garden hose ( after dumping out whatever might be left in it. ) and
flush it GOOD. Then, take a look inside. I use a 12 volt bulb attached to
a
taillight socket and connected to a car battery to light up the inside,
but
whatever you can concoct that will fit through the opening is fine.
YOU DO WANT TO FLUSH THE TANK OUT FIRST, very thoroughly, before putting
any electrical light or gizmo in it ! Gasoline vapors are very explosive.
Once you have examined what's there, in terms of rust or varnish, you can
decide whether the gas tank can be saved. Most likely it can. First
procedure is to dry it out thoroughly inside... I use an old hair dryer,
duct-taped to the filler neck. Let it run awhile til the inside of tank is
dry. Then pour in a couple-three gallons of lacquer thinner, and slosh
around for 24 hours. That will hopefully remove most of the varnish .
Rinse again thoroughly and dry again thoroughly and see where you're at.
If
it looks reasonably clean in there, then time for the next step.
Call POR-15 and order one of their gas tank sealing kits. It comes
complete
with etching solution, and a quart of sealer. Follow directions. First
etch
the inside, then dry thoroughly, pour in the whole quart of sealer, slosh
it
around well, pour out the excess, let sit for 5 days, you're done.
Please note that it will be important to devise some easy to use lighting
system to view what's goingon inside the tank, since you'll be wanting to
see the insides more than once.
Please also note that the POR15 sealer works WONDERS - it will seal up
rust
and scale and even some varnish in the tank. Once it sets up, it's as hard
as a rock. Make sure to protect the sealing area of the fuel tank sender,
wear rubber gloves when handling chemicals and the gas tank sealer.
Where to get POR-15: http://www.por15.com/
Depending on the condition of the fuel line, you might elect to replace it
entirely. Then you will have a 100% new fuel system. You can purchase new
ram fuel lines from the fuel pump up to the carbs, and from carb to carb,
from InlineTube : http://www.inlinetube.com/
Have fun !
John
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 08:49:54 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
Hi Gary & all
The noise is a constant light knocking noise, not the dull type knock of
main bearings, unfortunately I did not have a timing light to tell if it
was
at engine rpm or 1/2 speed.
Owen
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Barker <gbaker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Owen & Jo Grigg <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
> Can you give a better description of the noise. Is it a tinny sound or
a
knock, scraping , constant or ?...Gary Barker
>
> Owen & Jo Grigg wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
> > below is a problem a friend his having with his motor, I apologise for
the fact that it is not a 300, but he could do with as many leads on the
cause as possible.I figure the combined knowledge of the 300 list will
solve
the mystery.
> > Thanks for all help.
> > Owen
> >
> > A few weeks ago I started up my fully rebuilt 57 Fury V-800 318 for
the
first time, which is installed in my rebuilt Fury chassis with Torqueflite
trans.
> > First impressions were good news, except for an engine noise that at
first sounded like it was coming from the fuel pump area. However after
trying other fuel pumps, and then investing in a mechanics stethoscope, it
was apparent that the noise was actually coming from the sump, and there
is
absolutely no noise whatsoever coming from the head area. And the noise
was
getting worse the longer I ran the engine.
> > I have run the engine a total of 3 times, on seperate days, and every
time, the engine purred like a kitten on initial start up, sounds perfect,
and then the noise comes along after about 30 seconds.
> > I had the engine rebuilder come and listen, and again it ran real
smooth
for 30 seconds until the noise started, and then we ran it for maybe 2
minutes while he was tring to figure out where the noise was coming from.
We
removed plug leads hoping it would tell us which cylinder was the problem,
and this did not make the noise go away. By this time the noise was
sounding
real nasty, so we shut it down and agreed that the engine had to come out
for inspection.
> > Prior to initial start up I had 40 pounds pressure on cranking, and
then
65 pounds when running.
> > My sump plug has a magnet, and when I drained the oil there was
nothing
apparent on the magnet.
> > The rebuilder removed the sump the following day, and the worst news
of
all is that there is nothing visible wrong with the engine. All bearing
clearances are perfect, there is plenty of clearance in the sump for the
oil
pickup, no marks on the sump, and the crankshaft was crack tested.
Everything seems OK.
> > We do not want to remove the heads if we don't have to, and besides,
the
stethoscope clearly showed that the noise was coming from down low.
> > The company that rebuilt my engine is a well equipped shop with a good
reputation. They are scratching their heads big time!
> > The real strange thing, and maybe the biggest clue, is that this noise
comes along only after about 30 seconds running from cold.
> > Thanks in advance for any clues.
> > Glenn Barratt,
> > 57 Fury,
> > Auckland, New Zealand.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 18:11:07 -0500
From: "Brian Hagen" <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: How NOT to sell a car on Ebay (long story, HUGE twists!)
How NOT to sell a car on Ebay.
I am pretty much dumbfounded right now as I cancel my auction for my 62
300
on Ebay. I have sold over 100+ things on Ebay, but never anything as big
as
a car, but I figured, it couldn't be so hard. I was so wrong.
The problems started when the auction was progressing as normal when I got
a
person ("anopia", neuropil@xxxxxxxxxxxx ) bidding on it 6 times until it
met
the reserve. I figured someone really wanted the car and didn't think to
much of it. And then I get an email from that same "anopia" stating he
was
buying the car for his brother for graduation and that he found out his
brother wanted a 60 300 instead" and he was retracting his bid. I was a
bit
taken back by this piece of news, but figured people make mistakes.
So he retracts his bid and then emails me that he had his sister
("c.s.lord" ) bid on the car to "help jack up the price". What!!?? The
sisters bid put the auction just below reserve, but not the high bidder.
I
then emailed him telling him not to bid or have his sister bid on my
auctions again and cancelled and banned thier bids. What an assh0l3!
So then i did some investigation. It seems Anopia and C.S.Lord are indeed
the same person. AND of course, He was selling items on ebay quite
regularly and bidding on them himself as "his sister" to jack up the
price.
Thru my snooping, I also found a third email address/ebay account for him!
( donaldlav@xxxxxxxxx ) it seem "donald" was also
bidding/selling/retracting his auctions. He has sold and bought several
high price items on Ebay with the bid/cancel/rebid scheme! He has also
done
this on other auction sites.
So i emailied Ebay and they did their investigations and had his account
pulled. Fine. End of story? NOPE!
Soo..after all my cancelling of this jokers bids and what not, I had a new
"old" high bidder. ("thomaskorbay" ThomasKorbay@xxxxxxxxxxx ) I decided
to
do some investigation into him as well. It seems he had recently bought
some 58 Edsel parts. AND it turns out Anopia, the inital jerkbidder was
SELLING 58 Edsel parts? Coincedence? I wasn't quite sure. And then i
snooped deeper. It turns out my high bidder was using an ebay account
based
on a German email address! Why? Because EBAY doesn't allow you to search
on
German users! It is against German privacy laws. So I couldn't find out
what he was selling or buying. I left it at coincedence..UNTIL...
3 hours before my auction was about to end I get an email from , the
"german" bidder stating that he was retracting his bid because he bid on
another item before becoming the new high bidder on my auction. Ah..the
old
bait and switch continues! His intention was this: Bid on my car with the
german account, bid on it again under a false name to find out the
reserve,
and then cancel that bid. Wait till the auction is about to close, and
then
retract again. He sent me a note along with the "I cancelled because I
bid
on another item...oh would you sell it for the original price?" What
bullshit. He couldn't buy the car because he bid on another but "oh..but
will you sell it for $XX" dollars. And it turns out after i emailed him
that I wanted the link to the "other auction he bid on" that ..he wasn't
the
high bidder on it. Not even close!
So now I end up with a cancelled auction. I finally just gave up and
cancelled it. With all these bids/cancels/retracts it frankly looks
horrible. Im sure a potential bidder thinks I, the seller, is up to no
good.
I know I probably would think the same way.
This auction has more twist and turns. But I know one thing. He screwed
with the wrong guy. So I ask everyone to please send this to your
buddies,
send it to your car friends, send it to your grandmother. I want to get
this guy. I am currently trying to get his home address...plane tickets
being so cheap these days ;-)
Feel free to email "him" at.
neuropil@xxxxxxxxxxxx
ThomasKorbay@xxxxxxxxxxx
donaldlav@xxxxxxxxx
This ISN'T over.
Brian
http://www.scatpack.com
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 00:40:58 EST
From: jp300hurst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler 300] 361s
The last year for the 361 was 1966. My Father's ' 66 Belvedere II H/T is
original with the 361 2 bbl. Hope this clears things up.
john
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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