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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Mirror Disassembly
From: "Ed/Jan Hermes" <ehermes@xxxxxxxx>
3. Gettleman
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. 300G mirror disassembly procedures
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 300G mirror disassembly procedures
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
6. 300G mirror project
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
7. 300G mirror project
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
8. FRESH 413 MOTOR, and Stage 3 max Wedge
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 06:27:46 -0600
From: "Jim Pristelski" <ajp002@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
Hi,
I had a 1957 318 years ago. We bought the car (a nice coral color
Belvedere
2 dr HT) cheaply because the engine had a "knock" in it. The sound turned
out to be created by the offset cam which is bolted to the end of the
camshaft to actuate the fuel pump. This cam was slapping against the
timing
chain cover. Either the cam was too thick, the camshaft had too much
lateral play, or both. The problem was solved by grinding down the front
edge of the cam. If this is the problem in this instance, there should be
evidence of scraping or wear on the inside of the timing chain cover.
Good
luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2001 11:46 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
> Hi everyone,
> below is a problem a friend his having with his motor, I apologise for
the
fact that it is not a 300, but he could do with as many leads on the cause
as possible.I figure the combined knowledge of the 300 list will solve the
mystery.
> Thanks for all help.
> Owen
>
>
>
> A few weeks ago I started up my fully rebuilt 57 Fury V-800 318 for the
first time, which is installed in my rebuilt Fury chassis with Torqueflite
trans.
> First impressions were good news, except for an engine noise that at
first
sounded like it was coming from the fuel pump area. However after trying
other fuel pumps, and then investing in a mechanics stethoscope, it was
apparent that the noise was actually coming from the sump, and there is
absolutely no noise whatsoever coming from the head area. And the noise
was
getting worse the longer I ran the engine.
> I have run the engine a total of 3 times, on seperate days, and every
time, the engine purred like a kitten on initial start up, sounds perfect,
and then the noise comes along after about 30 seconds.
> I had the engine rebuilder come and listen, and again it ran real smooth
for 30 seconds until the noise started, and then we ran it for maybe 2
minutes while he was tring to figure out where the noise was coming from.
We
removed plug leads hoping it would tell us which cylinder was the problem,
and this did not make the noise go away. By this time the noise was
sounding
real nasty, so we shut it down and agreed that the engine had to come out
for inspection.
> Prior to initial start up I had 40 pounds pressure on cranking, and then
65 pounds when running.
> My sump plug has a magnet, and when I drained the oil there was nothing
apparent on the magnet.
> The rebuilder removed the sump the following day, and the worst news of
all is that there is nothing visible wrong with the engine. All bearing
clearances are perfect, there is plenty of clearance in the sump for the
oil
pickup, no marks on the sump, and the crankshaft was crack tested.
Everything seems OK.
> We do not want to remove the heads if we don't have to, and besides, the
stethoscope clearly showed that the noise was coming from down low.
> The company that rebuilt my engine is a well equipped shop with a good
reputation. They are scratching their heads big time!
> The real strange thing, and maybe the biggest clue, is that this noise
comes along only after about 30 seconds running from cold.
> Thanks in advance for any clues.
> Glenn Barratt,
> 57 Fury,
> Auckland, New Zealand.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 17:26:45 -0500
From: "Ed/Jan Hermes" <ehermes@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mirror Disassembly
all,
I agree with Bob.
Although I don't currently have a need for this (mirror) information, I
will
file answers for future use. Who knows when retrieving the info from my
database might be necessary ???
Dennis, if you received answers, please post. THANKS !
Ed Hermes
Cincinnati
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//
////////////////////////////////////////
> Dennis,
>
> The purpose of this board is to disseminate information. I for one,
would
never consider the posting of the answer to this question to the list as
"clogging the listserver" If information like this is known, let's get
it
out so everyone can benefit. I have seen other good questions posted,
that
as far as I know, never got answered. I suspect the answers went
directly
to the requester only and lost to the group as a result. I have a delete
key and I don't mind using it, that's what it is there for.
>
> Bob J
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 21:18:22 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gettleman
Gary Gelttleman, are you on the club list server or does anyone have
Gary's
current e-address?
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:20:03 -0500
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300G mirror disassembly procedures
Dear membership,
I received several requests to post the 300G mirror disassembly
methods on the list. I have attached the procedures I followed to this
message for those who may need to take one of these things apart someday.
Many thanks to all of you who helped...I've had the G since 1980, and
thought I had removed every nut and bolt at least once...but until now it
wasn't necessary to take the mirror completely apart, and the service
manual is silent on the subject.
Best wishes
dennis cloer newton nc
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 22:44:51 -0500
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300G mirror disassembly procedures
Hello again,
Looks like the original attachment concerning the 300G mirror
disassembly failed to attach. Let's try it again.
dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: skyhawk <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2001 10:20 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300G mirror disassembly procedures
> Dear membership,
> I received several requests to post the 300G mirror disassembly
methods on the list. I have attached the procedures I followed to this
message for those who may need to take one of these things apart someday.
Many thanks to all of you who helped...I've had the G since 1980, and
thought I had removed every nut and bolt at least once...but until now it
wasn't necessary to take the mirror completely apart, and the service
manual
is silent on the subject.
>
> Best wishes
>
> dennis cloer newton nc
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:47:59 -0500
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300G mirror project
Dear Membership,
I received a lot of information from various members in response to my
question about 300G remote mirror disassembly techniques. Following their
instructions, and figuring out some of the methods myself, I was able to
get the thing apart. Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the lower-dash plastic joystick bezel (the one that says 'mirror
control') by prying it out of the housing..this exposes the spanner nut so
that the joystick unit can be removed Loosen this nut, remove joystick
from dash mounted pod.
2. On original and untouched units, you will see three wires attached to
the joystick. There may be a rubber band surrounding them..sometimes it
is gone. The three wire ends are color coded...make note of what goes
where. If color code is gone, use three new color dabs so that
re-assembly won't result in a mirror that does the opposite of what you
tell it to do! Using a pair of needle-nosed pliers, carefully pull the
wirecoil sheath away from the housing and remove the single strand of wire
from its slot with its stub end intact. Do this for each of the three
wires.
3. Under the hood, carefully pry from the firewall the three-wire grommet
through which the cables run. Once removed, you will have three cables
covered by a plastic sheath with a rubber grommet attached.
4. Use dishwashing detergent to lube the grommet area where the cables
come
through. Pull each cable through the grommet...one at a time. It will
take a hefty tug. Remove the plastic sheath from the cables
5. Remove the screws holding the mirror assembly to the fender...Pull the
cables
through the fender and remove mirror assembly from the car. Tape the
edges of the hole to prevent scratches.
6. Remove the big mirror adjustment screw, and the two small screws at the
bottom
of the mirror housing. Pull the cables through the center post one
at a time.
7. You now should have 4 pieces...1)the base and outside posts cast as one
unit,
2) the center post through which the cables run 3) a bullet shaped
adjustment
adapter, and 4) the mirror housing with its wires and glass still
attached
8. Upon examining the inside of the mirror housing, you'll see a spring
and three
wires attached to the rear of the glass. It looks like the retainer
inside the mirror
housing with its 3 wires and spring is cast as one unit with the
mirror
housing, which makes it appear the glass is non- removable, but the
retainer is
actually pressed into the housing. Place the housing face down on
a firm
surface . Take note of the color coding of the three cables as to
which one aligns
with the PDDC logo on the back of the mirror housing. Insert the
end of a narrow
punch into the hole in the back of the mirror housing through which
the cables
run, until it contacts the retainer. Using a small hammer, give it
one or two sharp
raps, and the retainer with its wires, spring, and glass should
separate from the
mirror housing.
Thanks to all of you who responded......Hope these tips save you some time
and effort along the way!!
Dennis Cloer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 23:50:01 -0500
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300G mirror project
Dear Membership,
I received a lot of information from various members in response to my
question about 300G remote mirror disassembly techniques. Following their
instructions, and figuring out some of the methods myself, I was able to
get the thing apart. Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the lower-dash plastic joystick bezel (the one that says 'mirror
control') by prying it out of the housing..this exposes the spanner nut so
that the joystick unit can be removed Loosen this nut, remove joystick
from dash mounted pod.
2. On original and untouched units, you will see three wires attached to
the joystick. There may be a rubber band surrounding them..sometimes it
is gone. The three wire ends are color coded...make note of what goes
where. If color code is gone, use three new color dabs so that
re-assembly won't result in a mirror that does the opposite of what you
tell it to do! Using a pair of needle-nosed pliers, carefully pull the
wirecoil sheath away from the housing and remove the single strand of wire
from its slot with its stub end intact. Do this for each of the three
wires.
3. Under the hood, carefully pry from the firewall the three-wire grommet
through which the cables run. Once removed, you will have three cables
covered by a plastic sheath with a rubber grommet attached.
4. Use dishwashing detergent to lube the grommet area where the cables
come
through. Pull each cable through the grommet...one at a time. It will
take a hefty tug. Remove the plastic sheath from the cables
5. Remove the screws holding the mirror assembly to the fender...Pull the
cables
through the fender and remove mirror assembly from the car. Tape the
edges of the hole to prevent scratches.
6. Remove the big mirror adjustment screw, and the two small screws at the
bottom
of the mirror housing. Pull the cables through the center post one
at a time.
7. You now should have 4 pieces...1)the base and outside posts cast as one
unit,
2) the center post through which the cables run 3) a bullet shaped
adjustment
adapter, and 4) the mirror housing with its wires and glass still
attached
8. Upon examining the inside of the mirror housing, you'll see a spring
and three
wires attached to the rear of the glass. It looks like the retainer
inside the mirror
housing with its 3 wires and spring is cast as one unit with the
mirror
housing, which makes it appear the glass is non- removable, but the
retainer is
actually pressed into the housing. Place the housing face down on
a firm
surface . Take note of the color coding of the three cables as to
which one aligns
with the PDDC logo on the back of the mirror housing. Insert the
end of a narrow
punch into the hole in the back of the mirror housing through which
the cables
run, until it contacts the retainer. Using a small hammer, give it
one or two sharp
raps, and the retainer with its wires, spring, and glass should
separate from the
mirror housing.
Thanks to all of you who responded......Hope these tips save you some time
and effort along the way!!
Dennis Cloer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 01:31:07 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: FRESH 413 MOTOR, and Stage 3 max Wedge
Please respond to Mike if any interest ! his e-mail is:
themoparman@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Pictures of either motor available upon request.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael ash" <themoparman@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> John, Mike Ash here. I have a killer totally rebuilt 413 for sale. Every
> part new! only 2750.00 to the membership. Email themoparman@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Also totally rebuilt Stage III Max Wedge with the very best of
> everything 12000.00 Here are pics of both. Any help making these
> available to the membership greatlt appreciated. Will make a donation to
> the club on the stageIII if sold. Best Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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