Re: [FWDLK] Starting Question
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Re: [FWDLK] Starting Question


I'm a little fuzzy on your description of the issue. If the engine refuses to start in the "start" position of the ignition switch, but does start when you release it to the "on" position, then most likely you have an ignition switch that does not feed power to the ignition coil in the "start" position. If it runs normally after starting, then it is unlikely to be the ballast resistor or coil. Try a voltmeter at the coil + side and observe when cranking.

Newer Mopars, sometime after my 56, had a separate wire from the ignition switch "start" position that bypassed the ballast resistor for greater current flow to the coil (more spark voltage) for those few seconds when the starter is working. When released to "on", the current switches to the "on" position and passes through the ballast resistor.

Nathan may also be correct about poor electrical connections.

Vintage ignition coils have a wimpy output voltage compared to modern coils. And it is even less when cranking the starter and the system voltage is drawn down. I would recommend a modern high voltage performance coil with 10 times the stock 59 coil voltage. Can make a huge difference on starting. PerTronics sells a stock looking black coil that doesn't use a ballast resistor (the resistance is designed into the coil).

Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500


From: "Larry Ashbaugh" <000003991ab8a71e-dmarc-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:14:51PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Starting Question

Tomorrow, weather permitting, I will try to replace the Mopar Ballast Resistor (probably original to 1959), and check all contacts.  If that doesn't help, I will replace the ignition switch.  Car runs absolutely great once it starts (I painted the engine a couple days ago and it should have hardened to the point that some heat will help solidify the new Chrysler Red engine paint for the Red Ram V8). 

Thanks for everyone's input.....


-----Original Message-----
From: hemipowerflite . <hemipowerflite@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Larry Ashbaugh <alienvoice@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Thu, Mar 12, 2020 7:54 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Starting Question

Most likely, you have low voltage at the coil due to bad connections through the firewall or other places. Once the starter stops cranking, you get more power and it can start. Check the line & all connectors to see where the drop in voltage occurs. Using an HEI or other electronic ignition can help because you can eliminate the ignition resistor. Another possibility, although remote, is that there is an issue with your ignition switch so that it doesn't supply power to your coil while cranking. But this isn't as likely.


On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 3:34 PM Larry Ashbaugh <000003991ab8a71e-dmarc-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
My 59 Dodge Coronet - 326/Powerflite - runs great once started.  I had it running for an hour the other day, burning out some old/new gas frm the tank, and it never faltered or got hot. 

But, it refuses to start unless I mess around with the key.  If I can get it to catch at the end of an attempt, when I release the key, sometimes it will catch and start.  Is this an issue with something with the ignition or electrical?  Cranks fine, and adding starting fluid (seems much of this stuff is crap anymore) doesn't help a great deal, so I think it is getting adequate spark, air and gas?



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