Talk about "splitting hairs"; O.C.W.'s Fine & Very Good are both "
#2 ", in my humble opinion, and are merely extensions, or
differentiations along the continuum of #2 condition (as in high #2, to
low #2 condition).
I think that OCW is trying too hard to place unilateral 'number-grades'
on a car, instead of allowing for adjustments within a grade.
When I went to Miami U. , (class of 72) we only had absolute grades
A,B,C, etc... .
Later, I understand, they went with +/- grade refinements, to reflect
a grade's actual status , on the point-scale.
Instead of a 4-point system, I always felt the a 5-point system was
fairest, because a "100"
grade would be 5.0 , and a "92" (e.g.) would calculate to a 4.2
etcetcetc....so, a "92" would no longer be the Magic-Number to hit, to
attain a simple "A" grade, in a class; a "91" would be a B+++++
("4.1"), and, virtually as 'good' as getting a "92" (4.2 grade average).
So, to get back on thread, OCW would assign
absolute straight-grades 1-6 ; while I personally like the idea of
shading or adjusting the grades
within the 5 categories.
Neil Vedder
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--- Begin Message ---
- From: Jan & Roger van Hoy <vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2007 22:35:58 -0700
Here is the official Old Car Price Guide:
a.. EXCELLENT: Restored to the current maximum professional standards of
quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and
appearing as new. This is a 95-plus point show car that is not driven. In
national show judging, a car in No. 1 condition is likely to win top honors
in its class. In a sense, it has ceased to be an automobile and has become
an object of art. It is likely to transported to shows in an enclosed
trailer, and, when not being shown, it is stored in a climate-controlled
facility. It is not driven. There are very few No. 1 cars.
b.. FINE: Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and
excellent original. Also, an extremely well-maintained original showing
very minimal wear. Except for the very closest inspection, a No. 2 vehicle
may appear as a No. 1. The No. 2 vehicle will take the top award in many
judged shows, except when squared off against a No. 1 example in its own
class. It may also be driven 800-1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours,
and simply for pleasure.
3.. VERY GOOD: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing
wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable
inside and out. Plus, combinations of well-done restoration and good
operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to
complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a "20-footer." That is, from
20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice
that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing
and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the driver¹s
seat, foot pedals, and carpeting. The chrome trim, while still quite
presentable, may have lost the sharp, mirror-like reflective quality it had
when new. All systems and equipment are in good operating order. In general,
most of the vehicles seen at car shows are No. 3s.
4.. GOOD: A drivable vehicle needing no, or only minor, work to be
functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur
restoration. All components may need restoration to be "excellent," but the
car is mostly usable "as is." This is a driver. It may be in the process of
restoration, or its owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away,
there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.
5.. RESTORABLE: Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and
interior. May or may not be running, but isn¹t weathered, wrecked, and/or
stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs
everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has
only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real
challenge to the restorer, it won¹t have him chasing for a lot of missing
parts.
6.. PARTS CAR: May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked,
and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. This is an
incomplete or greatly deteriorated, perhaps rusty, vehicle that has value
only as a parts donor for other restoration projects.
--Roger van Hoy, Washougal, WA, '55 DeSoto, '58 DeSoto, '56 Plymouth, '66
Plymouth, '41 Dodge
----- Original Message -----
From: "eastern sierra Adj Services" <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] ebay Item number: 330175275427
This is a fun thread.
Theoretically, a #4 (parts-)car should not be driveable, or,
very-driveable, as is.
Back in the "day", in Ohio/Midwest, there were a LOT of rolling
rust-buckets, which would qualify for #4 status. Driveable, but fugly .
A #5 car is a hulk.
So, what else constitutes the RANGE, of #3 cars, if not varying degrees
of "driveable"?
As everything is negotiable, I agree that hard-and-firm categorization
is not possible; hence the range of qualifications, within any category.
But, I still think that the following general categories are fair and
reasonable, subject to
interpretation/qualification/gradation, within the categories:
#1 : Perfect/trailer queen
#2: potential show-placer/detailed engine & undercarriage
#3: decent/nice general driver
#4: driveable parts car/beater:rough condition
#5: incomplete hulk
All the categories can go up or down, depending upon what is done to a
particular car.
Neil Vedder
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