Sorry Ron It sounded like the same problem to me, leakage around the back of the nut. Using Teflon tape on the threads will cause problems with the seal if it gets into the mating surface of the brake line and it's seat in the fitting or wheel cylinder or master cylinder, since the threads are not where the seal is made, the tape is not needed although a small amount of thread lube on the nut threads and possibly on the brake line above the flare where the nut rotates on the line could possibly help the nut apply pressure to the tubing and thus hold the tubing firmly against the seat where the seal is needed to stop any leakage. I think that you have slowed the leakage enough to be able to pump up the brakes and then when you let the system rest awhile the brake fluid drains around the small leak and you have to fill that void again when you step on the brakes the next time. A bad master cylinder will also have the effect of having to pump up the brakes every time you use them although a bad master cylinder will leak down with the brakes applied lightly as the fluid will bypass the cup in the master cylinder. PS I didn't realize the last thread was yours too until this e-mail came in and I went back and checked. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 2:47 PM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Stainless Steel Brake Lines The issues in the previous thread were worked out. I was not getting any pedal at the time. Now I can pump it up. Also, I'm asking about peoples' experiences with stainless lines. ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
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