Thanks to all that responded. I figure there are others interested so here are the responses. I am considering using a die to cut threads onto the posts and putting them back on with a nut and washer. Any thoughts on this? Are the posts too fragile to mess with? Scott Use a small bladed screwdriver and slightly bend the tabs upwards around the studs. Not too far or they break. If you have no choice, then break tabs off and not the stud. The spring steel tabs are avaliable at Home Depot is various sizes or auto parts stores. ED I always pried it up a little with a screwdriver, then pulled it off with a needle nose pliers. Then I'd take it and put it on the flat part of the vise and hammer it flat and use it to put the emblems back on. Nick Ive had good luck using pliers, gripping the spring clip and "unscrewing" it in one direction Once the "threads" start cutting, it seems to screw right off. Roger I assume you are referring to the spring clips around the little posts. I use one of two methods. One is to twist them off like a nut at an angle. The other is to pry loose and take a needle nose pliers and bend into a "v". This opens the spring and allows the clip to slide off. In either case, new clips are required for replacement. Ken Yes, there are flat barbs that are springloaded from each side. You must carefully pry a small jewelers screwdriver under one barb and bend it up an away enough to clear the post. The posts are typically pot metal and will not tolerate any stress, pulling, prying, or bending. If done right, the spring clips can be reused by flattening. Richard Oil helps a lot. Also, you should still be able to by a clip that will work... Better to cut the old clip to get it off, than break the piece your tyring to save. Joe P I discovered something that worked good for me. I took a #16 nail and ground down the sides to almost the size of a needle and bent the end up just a little. You need to start your grinding about a 1/4 inch up from the end. Push the ground down end into the crack of the clip and work it in slowly on either side. When you get it in far enough the clip should release and come off. It worked fine for me and hope you have the same luck. Mackey In the process of removing D-E-S-O-T-O F-i-r-e-d-o-m-e and assorted others I developed a technique that worked well for me. I used an ice pick?... Maybe an awl would work if sharpened. Push it in between the clip base and the part that's pushed up and holds the trim. Rather than pry, push it through the space. That will gently lift the clip ear up and away from the trim. Do that on both sides and the clip should almost fall off. The clip can be bent back down later. Roger If you don't mind destroying the clips, better to use new improved ones anyway, try using a small pair of tin snips to gently split the clip and loosen from the bezel post. You will chew up the bezel post or worst when using the screwdriver method. Gary The method I have used is to grip those little plates across the narrow dimension with a pliers straight on, the rotate back and forth while appling a light/moderate pull. Sometimes they unscrew and sometimes they gradually slip off. Be careful not to break off the pins from the script. Work it slowly. The pins may also get a little chewed up. These things are designed to push on quickly at the factory and grip, unfortunately with no thought of removal. A drop of oil may also help. The 1/4 panel scripts that I have removed in the past from a few cars have been retained with hex nuts made of sheet metal. These form a cup and are usually used with a spot of dum-dum (like tar) to seal out water from the trunk. Much easier to unscrew with a wrench behind the gas filler area. These may be better for reassembly. The flat plates are more often used on the hood scripts. Dave From: Scott H <kneedrager@xxxxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: Scott H <kneedrager@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [FWDLK] Removing Trim clips? Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:41:46 -0000
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