Re: [FWDLK] POR-15
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Re: [FWDLK] POR-15



I was not planning on painting over  it.  The floors will be covered with
carpet and the chassis is not exposed to sunlight, except maybe with the
hood open at shows. Do you HAVE to paint over this stuff?
I was going to use it on the inside fender wells.
Has anyone else experienced the "chalking" that Ron has.
Thanks
Scott



From: Ron Waters <Ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] POR-15
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:53:50 -0500

Hi all -

I've used both products and they both work well.  I have found, though,
that
POR15 turns chalky after a few years.  I've also had isolated instances of
POR15 releasing from surfaces that had underlying rust.  Another factor is
that the stuff is BAD to breath in.  Must wear a respirator when using.

I prefer Corroless to POR15 because it *is* easier to paint over.  Also
less
toxic.  I find Corroless every bit as good as POR15.  It comes in both
spray
cans and quarts. I would recommend the quarts because the stuff tends to
harden in the spray cans after a couple of months, making it unusable.

You have a 2 - 4 hour window to topcoat POR15 (usually 4 - 6 hours after
application).  With Corroless, it's about a 12 hour window, again starting
about 4 - 6 hours after application.

One last thing, both products work best on metal that's been sandblasted
clean.

My 2¢.

Ron

----- Original Message -----
From: <cpollock@xxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 5:13 AM
Subject: [FWDLK] POR-15


> I sent this response to Scott and forgot to forward to the whole group, > so here it is. > > Hi All, > Just wanted to comment on POR-15. Stuff works great, exactly as > advertised. I > have used it for years but there are a few things to know about it. > Once you > apply it you have a VERY limited amount of time to paint/clear coat/etc. > over > it. If you EVER plan on painting, etc. over it (and I believe this > includes > undercoating) it must be done in that short time frame. If you don't it > will > not stick. Period. Nothing sticks to this stuff once it is dry. And I > mean > nothing. Also, if ever plan on removing a part that this stuff is on, > paint > the part separately, let the stuff dry and then reassemble. The reason > for > this is the that the POR-15 will more or less weld anything together. > You > won't get it apart again without a chisel. This includes the lid to the > can > that it comes in. I always put a piece of cellophane between the can > and the > lid before I hammer it shut. If you want something that can be easily > painted > over use Correless. This can be used in the same way, but isn't quite > so > durable. The results are the same. It permanently stops rust. It can > be had > through the Eastwood Company. The next big thing is that this stuff is > never > really glossy and actually quite motley in appearance, so don't put it > in an > area that will be seen. It is also affected by UV radiation, so don't > put it > anywhere the sun will shine on a continual basis. It has about a 6 > month shelf > life so avoid the 5 gallon can unless you intend to use it all at once. > I > usually buy it one quart at a time during a restoration. I use it on > the floor > and trunk pans under the carpet and mats, on the wheel wells before I > apply the > undercoating, and most importantly on the inside of the frame rails and > (sometimes) on the outside as well, also before the undercoating. I use > the > undercoating for the "factory correct" look. I generally brush it on, > but if > can be sprayed. I never tried it on the inside of doors and quarters > because I > did not want to block the drain holes on the bottom of those. If you do > use it > in these places makes sure the holes are open BEFORE the stuff dries. > It is > 100% bulletproof and I have never seen a spot of rust on the areas I > have > coated. The same holds true with the Correless. > > Hope this helps, > Chargin'Charles--->>> > still looking for the elusive turquoise 2 dr 1960 New Yorker, Saratoga, > etc. > (and the money to pay for it)

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