Hi Mark, recent emails on the list covered electrical
shrink tube repairs that work very well on Powerflite, Torqueflite cables. Mine
using a heavy duty 3M shrink tube has lasted ten years. Dick W. 57 Fury clone,
the other red one!
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] '58 Suburban
I haven't posted here much in the last couple of years, but I met many
have you in Tulsa, and I still have my '57 Fury.
Now I have a '58 Suburban with a flathead 6 in it that is about ready
to hit the road except for two problems.
I need a 1 barrel air cleaner and can't find any in my stash of parts.
Anyone have one out there that they could sell?
The other problem is a mysterious transmission leak that the standard
stop leak products don't seem to help. It appears the leakage is on the
cabling, too. I know that sounds kind of vague, but I'm hoping somebody
out there had a similar problem and figured out how to fix it.
Thanks
Mark mjh Sutherlin, OR
Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android |
From: Roger van Hoy
<vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; To:
<L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Subject: Re: [FWDLK] : [FWDLK] Solid State
Voltage Regulators for Generators Sent: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 3:08:37 PM
Here’s a fairly simple explanation of the process and theory:
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] : [FWDLK] Solid State Voltage Regulators
for Generators
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] : [FWDLK] Solid State Voltage Regulators
for Generators
Also, are you polarizing the regulator when you replace it or
hook up a new battery? It only takes a second with a jumper
wire.
There is no such thing as “polarizing” a regulator; the part that is
being polarized is the generator. It has steel screws to hold the
field coils, and while the center coil hold-downs are iron (which is not
magnetic), those screws are steel, and they will become the magnets to
create the intial energy to get the system working.
mike higgins
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