| I am all for good ideas, ... so let me ask a question or two ...
One wires this in line and activates it momentarily to prime pressure against the carbs for a quick start, and then shuts it off when ready to crank the engine over ?
I presume this means it allows a free by-pass flow when turned off ?
How big are they, and where are they typically mounted ? ... or more to the point, can they easily be concealed ?
Thanks, Burger
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ On Nov 19, 2012, at 8:07 AM, John wrote: All, I carry and have sold for years (MADE IN THE USA) auxiliary fuel pumps that will assist when priming and starting your engine. BEWARE that many of these pumps you see for low prices are not USA built but usually from China. Do I need to say anymore there?? These are placed (in-line) and should ONLY be used for the prime and starting procedure. Rich Barber states that he had to hook his 6V pump to run all of the time for it to function properly. This is a very bad idea. Should your mechanical pump fail and the diaphragm puncture you can force the raw fuel directly into the crankcase. Don't think I need to explain what the results could be. We carry the Facet (MADE IN USA) brand and they do not offer a 6V version so I have no idea what Mr. Barber is using but it doesn't sound like a "by-pass" pump. Many Hot Rodders use an electrical high pressure pump on some applications that don't use a mechanical pump. I own a 1960 Volkswagen sedan with a 2275cc approximately 200 HP motor running (2) 48 IDA Weber Carbs and it uses a Holley High Pressure pump with a controlled fuel pressure regulator so that "I" can control delivery pressure. There is a "kill" button for fuel delivery very accessible should I ever need it. Modern cars have an automatic cut off should the car be involved in an accident disaster won't occur from a fire being continual fed by a run away pump. Some years ago I saw this very thing happen in front of my eyes as a guy with a T-Bucket was hit and the pump kept feeding the motor as a fire started. Several of us had fire extinguishers but it didn't help and the car burned to the ground in front of us because the owner hadn't taken the time to install a "kill" switch. Typical story, he made a left in front of a car and was hit. First time he had the Rod out and of course he had not activated his insurance. Don't let this happen to you. There are two versions of the Facet brand we carry. 1.5-4 PSI & 4-7 PSI and I've always used the latter but either one will do the job to fill the system up for the initial start. Cost and appearance is the same on either pump ($36.69 + shipping) and they are a rather straight forward installation. On my personal cars they are attached to an "independent" switch that "I" control as I don't want the pump running all of the time. Should you have a mechanical pump failure and can determine that it is not the diaphragm you can use the auxiliary pump to operate the car but I would only do this on a temporary basis. I hope that this will be of assistance to some of you and should you need one and choose Royze as your supplier you can phone to the 800 # below. We accept Paypal, Mastercard, Visa and American Express and oh yes, we still accept cash although it doesn't seem to be worth much these days. Thejohn@xxxxxxxxx is my work e-mail and I only use it weekdays. You can also send to me at french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx which is my personal e-mail and I review it several times daily. John Lazenby
Royze Inc.
1990 W. Corporate Way
Anaheim, CA 92801
714 533-1823
800 421-2011
714 533-1206 Fax
800 999-7349 Fax ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 2:30 PM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] electric fuel pump
Argh, should have said my car has a rear factory defroster. Since it's only hot when the ignition is switched on I didn't think to mention that either. Power to the pump should be switched and fused. Still some risks with this set up... like what if you had an accident with the pump on. Modern cars have some kind of impact switch that shuts off power to the pump. Compared to pouring gas down the carb every few days I'll take the chance.
LeRoy, I use an electric pump but only to prime the carbs on my 57 Chrysler. I have the pump installed near the fuel tank. Mine is wired to the factory defrost fan (convenient). I turn on the fan for a minute or so and the pump runs. Then off, then start the car. Otherwise a fused momentary button or toggle switch on the dash works. There are some electric pumps that won't work for this. The mechanical pump can't pump through them. I had a Carter that wouldn't work that way. That pump was kind of 6" long cylinder looking unit. The right pump is a 2.5 - 3 inch little square block. It puts out 2-4 psi. No regulator needed at that pressure. No problem with whatever gallons per minute. It won't be an issue with our cars. This guy has them- John won't get his emails till Monday at work. Maybe $25-30. If the mechanical pump ever fails I carry a section of rubber fuel hose, clamps and a fitting. Install the rubber hose between the metal fuel line at the front frame rail and connect directly to carb, bypassing the mechanical pump. Then use the electric pump to get home. Jim Krausmann
From: "lr thompson" < lr.thompson@xxxxxxxxx> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 12:55:21 PM Subject: [FWDLK] electric fuel pump Hello everyone, I am thinking of putting an electric fuel pump on my 56 Desoto. This ethanol fuel seems to evaporate out of the carburetor when the car sets of a couple of weeks without being started. Has anyone done this, which pump should I use, do I need a separate pressure regulator, etc? Mac's lists a 12 volt Carter pump that puts out 2 to 4 psi. I have the stock Carter four barrel carb on my car. Any advice is appreciated. regards, LeRoy ************************************************************* ************************************************************* *************************************************************
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