Larry Gardinier wrote:
I have personal experience with a product called Muggy Weld and a propane torch. It's like a solder that melts at a lower heat range so as not to melt pot metal. I first used a dremel tool with a diamond tip to clean out the pits. Then I used the Muggy Weld to fill the pits- that didn't work very well. The chrome shop grinders and polishers knocked most of it back out. Luckily they were patient with me and told me of the problem and invited me to bring my stuff down to the shop and try again. Since the chrome and nickle had been removed the pits were easier to fill and they did final polishing while I waited so I could see the results. Now everything is at the platers and should be back later this week so we'll see how it all turns out. To grind the Muggy Weld I used a sanding disc on my Dremel, actually I used a LOT of sanding discs.
I would suggest you find a chrome shop near you and be thier friends. Bring them bottled water, beer, women, whatever, tell them you are experimenting with the product and ask if they would price the grinding and polishing seperately with the promise that they will do the plating. When they've made the parts look as good as they can take them back to fill the pits.
Hope this helps!
Larry Gardinier
ok, musings on problem
would this workout???
take to platers and have the chrome and copper layers stripped off
would getting the base coat of copper refreshed plate the pits???
If the replating in copper does place a layer of copper in the pits
would this then provide a stronger surface adheasion for the muggy weld,
or a good base for some other flows when hot enough material???
sand the results then copper plate again for the chrome to be done
--
Paul Holmgren
2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hoosier Corps L#6
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network