Dick,
I had much better luck installing the torque converter on the transmission
first. You can then rotate it until you feel it engage 3 times. This takes
about 30 seconds. Then when you mate the engine and trans, all that needs
alignment are the 2 dowel pins between engine and trans case, and the 8
studs in the torque converter to the crank.
Bob,
If you separate the torque converter from the tranny, it will have to move
several inches along the splined shafts before it clears. If you unbolt the
torque converter from the crank, unbolt the bell housing from the engine
block, separate the bell housing from the tranny adapter plate (bolted to
the engine with one hidden bolt), you only have to move the engine forward
about 1 inch to disengage the torque converter studs from the crank. Then
the engine can go straight up.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
[mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Richard Whelan
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 10:14 AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Rear Cross Member- R&R . . .
Bob, the torsion bars aren't connected to the crossmember so you can pull
that. If you are working in home garage conditions you will find it much
easier to assemble the engine and trans out of the car as there are 3
seperate alignments to get the trans and converter together, 2 splines and
the front pump ears. I did it on dollies on the garage floor with alignment
pins made from bolts and it was still tough. I cant imagine laying on my
back under the car and trying to do it even with a trans jack. I had the
Ebrake assembly, cylinder heads and manifold and water pump off when I
dropped the assembly into the car and it went very easily. An engine leveler
was a big help on getting the angle correct. Hope this helps, Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Moore <mustang@xxxxxxxx>" <mustang@xxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 11:05 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] Rear Cross Member- R&R . . .
> In deep . . . . !
>
> I mentioned I am changing out my 350 B bloack and
> installing a 325" Hemi (that runs-) into my '58 Sierra Wagon.
>
> Unfortunately, it's been so long
> since my HS days when I was working on my '57 Fury, I thought maybe I
> could leave the transmission in the car and pull the engine with the
> bellhousing and converter left on, just like the engine is sitting
> that I've got ready to put in.
>
> Only problem is, the pan of the engine will hit the front cross-member
> before you candisengage the converter from the tranny splines, huh?!?
>
> It looks like the
> only other way is to pull the engine and trans together, IF you could get
> that big old parking brake over the rear cross member, or- you need to
> drop the rear cross member. To drop the rear cross member, do I need to
> relax the torsion bars??
>
> Thx, Working late, (and all day Monday-)
>
> -Bob
>
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