---------- > From: Spencer Louthan <slouthan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: Deane Allinson <deane.allinson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [FWDLK] ball joint removal > Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 6:51 AM > > The only practical way to remove those ball joints is to use the special > socket that was made for it. there were 3 different sizes used on Mopar > cars (3\4 inch drive) and these sockets are still available from Snap-on > tools for about $40. Or if U could find a dealership who has the correct > one perhaps just take the control arms to them to do it. > S.LOUTHAN 61' NEWPORT > > ---------- > > From: Deane Allinson <deane.allinson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: [FWDLK] ball joint removal > > Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 5:24 AM > > > > Can any one give me an alternative to the dealer tool that is used > > to remove the ball joints on a '60 model? The joint screws in and > > out.? It has 4 flats about 1/8" tall and 1 7/8" apart. The dealer tool > > is a big socket, but regular hex type will not fit.? I even tried a pipe > > wrench (briefly). > > On another note, while I'm working on the front end I'm removing > > and painting stuff. The only part underneath the car with out rust > > is the torsion bar. It's amazing when I wiped off the dirt and grease, > > It looks almost new. You can tell from the drip marks that the part > > was dip painted. It looks like the same finish that you see on old > > woodworkers hand planes. Too bad that more parts weren't protected > > this way. > > Deane |