Re: [FWDLK] Brakes and engine overheating

["s scott" <kneedrager@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I had a similar problem with a 68 Buick Skylark a number of years ago after
literally trying everything i had the radiator re-cored, seems the car sat
for a long time and some of the internal passages were blocked, on the
highway it simply could not keep up.
scott

> From: Tom Wright <TWright669@xxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: TWright669@xxxxxxx
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Brakes and engine overheating
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:17:04 EDT
>
> In a message dated 5/18/99, 1:03:40 PM, SperdutoN@xxxxxxx writes:
> <<On another note, i will start working on my running warm at an idle
> problem
> next week.
> One person suggested first I check to see that the car is actually running
> warm.
> With the guage at 3/4 towards max, the collant temp (by sticking a
> thermometer in the radiator" was 200 degrees. So I think it's safe to
> assume
> that when the guage it at max, the car is overheating. The first thing I'm
> going to do is attempt to remove the thermostat.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Nick>>
>
>
> I am having an overheating problem, too.   Actually, my car can idle all
> day
> long on a hot day and not go past the end of the "C" area.  When I drive
> around town, the needle stays in the cool half of the "normal" area.  BUT,
> when I get on the highway, the needle shoots straight up to the "H" area
> within 15 minutes.  I have already taken out the thermostat.  And I know
> the
> gauge is not lying because the water boils out once I get off the highway
> (never in city traffic or idling, though.)
> What could cause this?  I believe my vacuum advance isn't working, but if I
> set the base timing to make up for it, it makes no difference.
> I even checked to see if I had the fan on backwards!  (I don't)
> I'm stumped.
> Any ideas?
> Tom


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com